Originally Posted by ITTs_Cole

salad....what does your jeep look like?

Originally Posted by Spaceman

I just replaced the alternator and I started my jeep up and it ran fine for a few minutes so I shut it off and went back inside and went to leave a few hours later and now it starts and runs for two seconds then shuts off I'm mind boggled any help please ???

Originally Posted by zekips180

I have a 2010 jeep grand cherokee with factory keyless entry. Lately it has been unlocking itself overnight. By coincidence, I saw the headlights come on one night, checked, and the door was unlocked again... just as if I had just clicked the unlock button on the keychain remote.

So, I took the battery out of the remote, made sure the doors were locked and went to bed. A few hours later, I check the car and the doors are unlocked again.

This typical? Seems like the control unit for the keyless entry in the Jeep is acting up to me.

Is there a way that i can cut the power to the keyless receiver to disable it while still having the power locks work (pushing the lock/unlock button on the door panel)? I have been searching online and can't find a fuse to pull or the location of the keyless receiver for the Jeep.

Any help will be appreciated. Thank you

2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Originally Posted by ITTs_Cole

salad....what does your jeep look like?

Originally Posted by XJwonders

this is his jeep

Just kidding. That's mine.

Originally Posted by kgm

Just replaced my fuel injectors & exhaust manifold. Now occasionally its stumbling at idle from 300-1000 rpm, and when I switch it into park it jumps to 1200 for a moment then back down. Sometimes it just idles smooth at 700-800 rpm.

No hissing or anything from exhaust gasket, no leaking from injectors that I can see. Fuel rail pressure was fine yesterday before changing injectors out.

Originally Posted by kgm

Any sense in wiggling it around and cleaning, or is that a thing to just replace?

Originally Posted by kgm

I...see if I got some powerwash water in it from cleaning the engine before swapping the exhaust

Originally Posted by GRohr

I bet you have a bad solenoid. It is easy to check and fix.

"To check solenoids in transmission without removing pan - removed plug off TCU that is located Rt side dash under clove box -with key in off pos.- volt/ohm meter check pos. lead terminal C14 converter clutch solenoid should read 11-15 ohms, terminal C15 shift solenoid #2 should read 11-15 ohms, terminal C16 #1 shift solenoid should read 11-15 ohms make sure you have good ground on - lead. If solenoid cks good problem is else were loose wires or tps" originally posted by McRay

That is for a cherokee though.

Originally Posted by Rcrivolio

C16 fluctuated between 88 and 107 ohms (C14 and C15 were both at 11.5). That would indicate that the #1 solenoid failed, correct?

Originally Posted by salad

Ahha... important details omitted from original post :P

TPS *HATES* water!

Originally Posted by Ferrel

So random question. I need to replace the rear main seal in my 96 zj 4.0L. It has about 250K miles. Is there any reason to consider replacing the pump while I'm in there, or is the lifespan for the oil pump in these more or less indefinite?

Thanks in advance for the advise.

Originally Posted by kgm

Ah ha! Yeah we washed the manifolds to get all the grime off since my VC leaks a hair. I unplugged it and let it dry out for a while and drove it without it, and it seems to somewhat have fixed itself. Had a store run the codes, got P0740 & P0122 which both seem related to the TPS and TCM lock out related to the TPS. They couldn't clear the codes with their tool, any way I can? Yank the battery leads for a few minutes? Just want to see if it comes back. Going to disconnect all the plugs and let them dry. Might have gotten some water in there the other day.

Originally Posted by 99sporttn

Got my motor today I have a 99. motor came out of a 96 cherokee what is a must change or swap from 99 that I have to do its a clean motor and runs great.