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Old Mar 12, 2015 | 07:48 AM
  #48931  
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Originally Posted by Basslicks
Thanks for that info! I need to re-shim my driver door, but my weatherstripping is flattened out really bad as well. I don't really care about water getting into the jeep - I ripped out the carpet a long time ago. But when you're on your way to work and water drips through the top of the door onto your work uniform, it's a little bit of a pain!
I don't think I mentioned it before, but I didn't know I had a seal problem until I went through a drive through car wash on the way to a wedding.

That didn't end well.

No more drive through car washes either.
Old Mar 12, 2015 | 09:58 AM
  #48932  
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From: Tacoma
Year: 1993
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Originally Posted by jdjonesdr
I don't think I mentioned it before, but I didn't know I had a seal problem until I went through a drive through car wash on the way to a wedding.

That didn't end well.

No more drive through car washes either.
I did that once... emphasis on the once.
Old Mar 12, 2015 | 10:21 AM
  #48933  
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From: Eastern Long Island, NY
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 Cyl / 4L
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Hit a pothole the other night and broke the shock mount on the front passenger side. It was rusting out already. It is still hanging on by half but makes the wheel shake a bit when I drive.

How hard is it to drop the Dana 30 assembly and replace it? I plan on doing this on the drive way.

Is cutting the control arms (as I plan on replacing them anyway) the best way to drop the old one?

Any other tips would be appreciated.

Thanks.
Old Mar 12, 2015 | 10:24 AM
  #48934  
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Originally Posted by Basslicks

Thanks for the info guys. Surprising there was no downstream O2. Figured they'd want to monitor the mixture after the cat as well.

205 is gear to gear, right? I hear everyone talkin' about wanting 205s on heavier rigs so it must be pretty good.

Yeah I've got a couple of people nearby selling 242s for decent coin. One is close by for 100 bucks and the other is about 45 min away for 50
Yes it's a solid case. I swapped one in for my broken BW4401 on my tow rig. Cost more than a drop in replacment but they are cheap to work on and strong. If I swap a 350 into my jeep it's what I'll be using.
Old Mar 12, 2015 | 12:20 PM
  #48935  
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I've done a lot of reading on this subject and came seem to find anything that works I have a 1988 XJ with the 4.0 It idles really high. Sometimes between 1,000 RPM all the way to 3,000 RPM. I put a new TPS on, cleaned/replaced the grounds, fixed the vac leaks and it's still really high. I'm at a loss and we are trying to take this thing to wheel on Sunday!!! What next? Any tips? Thanks in advance.
Old Mar 12, 2015 | 12:44 PM
  #48936  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
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Originally Posted by Jeep_Mafia

I've done a lot of reading on this subject and came seem to find anything that works I have a 1988 XJ with the 4.0 It idles really high. Sometimes between 1,000 RPM all the way to 3,000 RPM. I put a new TPS on, cleaned/replaced the grounds, fixed the vac leaks and it's still really high. I'm at a loss and we are trying to take this thing to wheel on Sunday!!! What next? Any tips? Thanks in advance.
Have you cleaned the IAC? Double check that the MAP vacuum line isn't leaking
Old Mar 12, 2015 | 04:21 PM
  #48937  
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From: Glendale,Az
Year: 1990
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This may be a weird theory, but I want to increase the Air pressure through the A/C system due to having a broken blend door. I've tried to repair the door inside the dash but it is beyond damaged from previous owner.

I was thinking about putting a small push fun over the Inside cabin air duct to increase the air pressure being pulled in by the hamster wheel.

Nothing is broken but the blend door in the dash, hamster wheel spins as fast as it currently can. It has been replaced, motor ect is all new. I'm just trying to increase volume. Like a turbo in a way but for my AC lol.

What are your thoughts?

I found small 6-10" fans that I could mount with a 1000cfm rating. Would thag be more than the hamster wheel?
Old Mar 12, 2015 | 05:17 PM
  #48938  
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From: Wetumpka, AL
Year: 1987
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206
This may be a weird theory, but I want to increase the Air pressure through the A/C system due to having a broken blend door. I've tried to repair the door inside the dash but it is beyond damaged from previous owner.

I was thinking about putting a small push fun over the Inside cabin air duct to increase the air pressure being pulled in by the hamster wheel.

Nothing is broken but the blend door in the dash, hamster wheel spins as fast as it currently can. It has been replaced, motor ect is all new. I'm just trying to increase volume. Like a turbo in a way but for my AC lol.

What are your thoughts?

I found small 6-10" fans that I could mount with a 1000cfm rating. Would thag be more than the hamster wheel?
Doubt you will have any success there. The factory fan is only gonna pull x amount of cfm...even if the air flow to it is boosted. It'd probably be best to just fix the blend door.
Old Mar 12, 2015 | 05:33 PM
  #48939  
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Originally Posted by drhoward1988

Doubt you will have any success there. The factory fan is only gonna pull x amount of cfm...even if the air flow to it is boosted. It'd probably be best to just fix the blend door.
Well it wouldn't necessarily be to get more air to the Wheel, it'd force more air into the Evaporator box in turn pushing more through the vents towards the passengers. It'd be basically 2 fans forcing air into a hole.

If you've ever ripped apart the lower dash, HVAC box you'd kinda get an idea of what I'm talking about.

I'm also trying to find the CFM for the stock fan if anyone has it.
Old Mar 12, 2015 | 05:40 PM
  #48940  
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206

Well it wouldn't necessarily be to get more air to the Wheel, it'd force more air into the Evaporator box in turn pushing more through the vents towards the passengers. It'd be basically 2 fans forcing air into a hole.

If you've ever ripped apart the lower dash, HVAC box you'd kinda get an idea of what I'm talking about.

I'm also trying to find the CFM for the stock fan if anyone has it.
I've had mine apart, twice lol. I see what you saying and understand your logic... I just don't think it will help in your situation. If it's simple to rig up try it. Helper fans only work when cfm has dropped below a certain variable downstream. I'm thinking putting those fans that close together won't really help anything. Not trying to be Debbie downer over here.
Old Mar 12, 2015 | 06:32 PM
  #48941  
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From: Sheridan, IL
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Jeep_Mafia

I've done a lot of reading on this subject and came seem to find anything that works I have a 1988 XJ with the 4.0 It idles really high. Sometimes between 1,000 RPM all the way to 3,000 RPM. I put a new TPS on, cleaned/replaced the grounds, fixed the vac leaks and it's still really high. I'm at a loss and we are trying to take this thing to wheel on Sunday!!! What next? Any tips? Thanks in advance.
My brother and I used to have an 89 XJ that had the same issue. Boil down to a stuck throttle. Sometimes it would just stick for some reason. If it got stuck we just just it off, hit the gas pedal a few times, and it would be fine. Just a thought.
Old Mar 12, 2015 | 10:10 PM
  #48942  
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Year: 1998, 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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so I just put my ax15 into my 4.0 xj and it will not shift out of the neutral position.

Could my input be misaligned somehow from install causing it to put pressure on the internals and not move?
Or is it even possible for it to be misaligned if i got all the bolts back in the bellhousing to the block easily.

I got this trans from a JY and im not sure if something is binding from when i installed it or if the internals may be seized up but I did not see any sort of corrosion inside the trans so Im thinking that may not be my problem.

I haven't filled it with fluid and starting up my jeep yet and I dont want to have a catastrophic failure when I do if i can avoid it...
Old Mar 12, 2015 | 10:28 PM
  #48943  
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Year: 1990
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Originally Posted by Jeep_Mafia


I've done a lot of reading on this subject and came seem to find anything that works I have a 1988 XJ with the 4.0 It idles really high. Sometimes between 1,000 RPM all the way to 3,000 RPM. I put a new TPS on, cleaned/replaced the grounds, fixed the vac leaks and it's still really high. I'm at a loss and we are trying to take this thing to wheel on Sunday!!! What next? Any tips? Thanks in advance.
Tip 1,2, 3, and 5 n the link in my signature for a great starting point.Adjusting the TPS AFTER doing the stuff above? See Tip 8.
Old Mar 13, 2015 | 03:33 AM
  #48944  
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Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by jdjonesdr
I don't think I mentioned it before, but I didn't know I had a seal problem until I went through a drive through car wash on the way to a wedding.

That didn't end well.

No more drive through car washes either.
Originally Posted by Ferrel
I did that once... emphasis on the once.
Yup.... I've done that too.

Originally Posted by drhoward1988
Yes it's a solid case. I swapped one in for my broken BW4401 on my tow rig. Cost more than a drop in replacment but they are cheap to work on and strong. If I swap a 350 into my jeep it's what I'll be using.
Yeah that's what I thought. I believe I've also heard of people using the NP205 and then the 231 as a doubler. MAJOR gear reduction there.
Old Mar 13, 2015 | 01:13 PM
  #48945  
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From: Wetumpka, AL
Year: 1987
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Originally Posted by Basslicks


Yeah that's what I thought. I believe I've also heard of people using the NP205 and then the 231 as a doubler. MAJOR gear reduction there.
Haven't ever heard of that. Dunno if it's somthing I want on the small length cherokees. Heck of angle off your rear shaft.



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