Not for cherokees.... for larger rigs like rock bouncers and stuff

 

I broke my blend door. Swapped HVAC boxes in like 4 hours. That was the second time i've had my dash apart for that. It's not too bad. Just get a JY box and that'll be practice for when you tear your dash apart.

 

Agreed on the POR-15 or Rust Blast from KBS Coating. Both are the same. Both are pricey. Both work very well IF you follow all the prep steps properly. Must use the degreaser, Must scuff old paint (or it will just peel off), Must use the acid etch, especially on freshly sand blasted metal, and be totally dry of course. It actually needs a light covering of rust for good adhesion. Hence the name POR (Paint over Rust).

 

new to this forum and not sure how to post a new post. Sorry if I am doing this wrong. Hoping someone can give me some guidance here. I can work on and modify the hell out of a Jeep, but cannot figure this stuff out
Anyway, does anyone here know how or where to get the female metal connectors INSIDE the fuel injector wiring connector? This may sound cofusing as all heck. I wish to replace all the wires going to my injectors with new, silicone jacketed, very flexible wiring, to hopefully eliminate the problems I am having. I do not want to repalce the connector (I know they can be bought....expensive) because they use very thin wire and I wanted to go better and more flexible.
I can take the connector completely apart, take the wires with female ends on, but that's where it stops. Unless I want to try to pry open the crushed end off the wire (which I have done before), I would have to use the old female connector soldering new wire to a short strip of old, which may be broken or failing anyway.
Hopefully somone gets what I am looking for. Appreciate any help you might be able to provide.

 

Indeed. I'm a fan of Chassis Saver, personally. I've had great experiences with it on my Wrangler and two frame-off CJ restorations, and I have a friend who swears by it when he works on Jeeps and F-body cars for a side job

 

Chassis Saver is a POR product correct? I think it is more of a top coat since the POR-15 is not UV stable (Like Herculiner.....which I think is stupid). You would have to put any top coat on the POR-15 while still tacky, use the tie caot primer they offer (which doesn't work that great) or scuff all the shine off with scotch brite before painting.

 

I am a new user. If I am doing this incorrectly I apologize in advance. I have a 1993 Jeep Cherokee Sport that shakes violently but only during acceleration and only around 45 and 55 MPH. If I mash the gas the shaking usually subsides. I feel like this has to be tied to the fuel system because at any speed I stop accelerating and the shaking stops instantly. Normal acceleration seems a bit upto those speeds feels a bit slugish as well, but no shaking. I have tried fuel injector cleaner and a higher octane fuel the last two fill ups to see if that would help, but has made little to no difference...I noticed this problem very shortly after adding a can of Seafoam engine cleaner to the Jeep.

 

Chassis Saver is a Magnet Paints product

 

Is there any bad spots when you push the gas? I mean, a point where it misfires badly, but runs good before and after that point? This usually indicates throttle position sensor. I have changed many.

 

the por15 top coat is great stuff. Anytime I take something off or swap in a new part it gets painted with both stages. Never had a regret. I foung after prepping with scotch-bright using the duplicolor degreaser which has a mild acid in it softens the base coat and really helps with adhesion. I've even just used the degreaser to prep a hard to sand surface and still had great results.

 

Might want to try NAPA, they used to have a good line of those. Best to find an old store that has and uses books. The newer stores use automated stuff, there is a lot left out. Their line is called ECHLEN. Good luck

 

Welcome Bizzer,

Anytime a Jeep Cherokee Shakes violently around 45 to 55MPH you have to suspect the infamous death wobble. Cherokee's are notorious for the problem. Why it would start after adding a can of seafoam to the gas is beyond my expertise. Death wobble is usually caused by worn suspension and steering parts. Search "death wobble" many good write ups on the problem.

 

Not this time. He said "only during acceleration" and only between those speeds. Once DW starts, it doesn't stop until the vehicle does (or at least drops to very low speed).


It seems more like a worn driveline part or tire imbalance.

 

Help my driver side window is stuck after this crazy winter , I was wondering what it could be , I heard it could be as simple as a fuse but I'm not sure which one. And all the other windows I can control but not the driver is the anyway it's off track

 

The axle shafts on WJ d35's the same length?