I may have homework for you, given your vast arrays of both knowledge and images:

Determine in which years those light clusters changed, provide a picture of each, and explain what all the lights mean.

I'll make us some pretty pictures to add to the database.

 

What database?

 

Don't worry about it. It's a Merica thing.

 

Ahh ok. I'll keep my eyes on Wikileaks then. Keep up the good works boys, gotta stop those terrorists from taking take apple juice on domestic flights...

 

What would happen if I extended all ground wires towards a closer point on the chassis? Like at the ground to battery negative location on the fender wall?

 

Yee Yee right on.

 

Cruiser54

Renix engine has 166K on it. Came out of a 89 Cherokee; body was rusted out so guy junked it but pulled engine and trans before doing so. I bought the complete engine from him. The engine had no knocks or pings only leaking valve cover gasket that I am aware of. Got a good deal on it and will allow me to get short block built and still be able to drive my jeep while doing that portion of build.

Will most likely just go with a good 87 -90 Master Rebuild kit and skip the thinner gasket notion. Just want to build fresh engine and get most bang for buck.

So think the plan will be the following.

1.) Short Block Assy. sourced from 89 Renix engine
2.) 97 XJ 0663 Head
3.) 99 Intake with throttle body and new sensors I already have on my 97 4.) Bosch 703 Injectors already on my 97
5.) 87 - 90 Master Rebuild Kit using STD Size bearings and rings

Should I have Renix block cleaned and new cam bearings installed by machine shop? Would this be the right thing to do or just inspect them? What would you look for on the cam bearings to determine need of replacment.
Keep in mind there will be a new cam and lifters installed.

Thanks for the help!

 

You would need larger gauge cable and probably a bus bar to terminate everything on.

Not sure why you'd be interesting in doing this? Cost/Benefit seems pretty low

 

just was wondering. I got plenty of wires and plenty of bus bars lol. I just thought the grounding would improve somewhat

 

I'm doing the disc upgrade for my xj. I just realized that the actuators should be (2) separate parts. Instead of being seized up they are supposed to rotate freely on one another. The only problem I have now is I cannot find a picture/diagram of the actuator to put it together properly. The pictures I have found on gurgle are not exactly what I have, or the resolution is so bad it's hard to see. Anyone have a good pic?

 

Maybe if your body work is crap. Otherwise the entire vehicle is being used as a conductor, which is pretty good.

What I'd aim for is enhancing connections. Refresh all your ground points and add some extras where appropriate. For example, from a radiator support to the battery negative is a popular modification (I did that with my headlight harness). Most of the stock grounds could certainly stand to be upgraded to larger wire but there's no need to run them all the way back to the battery.

Are you talking about the parking brake lever? I had that same issue, rusted solid. Hammer, heat, and Liquid Wrench solved that.

I don't remember if I took my own photos but here's a diagram of what the thing looks like (stolen from http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/9...ssue-586863/):




The lever pulls forward to actuate the brakes. Left is obviously reverse of the right.

 

Hey guys, I recently got a great deal on a 2000 sport 2wd that has 36k miles on it. Besides the basic flush of the fluids and refilling them with new ones is there anything else yall suggest I do to it to. Keep in mind this is going to be my daily driver, hopefully for a long time. Also, my two passenger side windows will not go down, but my two driver side ones will. Any suggestions?

 

i was washing the jeep the other day and noticed i have some rust in the front of the rear side windows, the one is starting to leak water through. my question is whats the best was to fix this?

 

Grats on the XJ and welcome to the site!

First tip - always list all vehicle information in posts. I'm assuming you have a 4.0L engine with an automatic transmission

Aside from a tuneup, make sure you get ALL the fluids. Air filter; quality oil filter like a WIX (aka NAPA Gold and Carquest Blue), Purolator, or Mopar; decent engine oil in a 5w30 or 5w40; Dexron III/Mercon for the automatic transmission; 75w90 gear oil for the rear axle; generic power steering fluid; and DOT3 brake fluid. You should also grease the steering linkage and any U joints if they have grease fittings.

There are a few other non-obvious things you can do to improve your new wheels. For example, upgrading the headlights with modern H4 bulbs and housings and an aftermarket housing is a cheap and easy way to keep up with all of the ultra bright cars on the road, and actually see where you're going. (see https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/hea...grades-151217/) There are other cheap and easy mods you might be interested in too, check out the Writeups section here - it's not all stuff for 4x4s.

2000s have a problem where the head is prone to cracking, keep an eye out for vanishing coolant and coolant appearing in the oil. For this reason cooling system maintenance is very important - so in addition to the usual be very liberal to the cooling system. Overheating is very bad for 2000-2002(ish) 4.0Ls!

Lastly, there's a lot of stuff been covered here already in previous threads. The in-site search is crap. If you pop over to Google and add "site:cherokeeforum.com" to whatever you're looking for you'll get great results. That headlight upgrades thread was the first hit when I searched for "headlight upgrades site:cherokeeforum.com"

These things last very long time if you take care of them well. Hopefully you don't have much rust!

 

Hey guys, Love this site! I'm a first time poster, so I hope this is the right thread. I'm also a first time Jeep owner. In January I got an '89 Cherokee Laredo 4x4. 4.0 Liter Automatic trans. with about 90k miles on it. It's my daily driver and I just started hearing knocks when I turn the steering wheel. Especially in reverse. It's coming from the linkage but everything looks secure. The cotter pins are all still there and the nuts aren't loose. Is this a bushing problem, or what? I'm not a mechanic, but I am mechanically inclined, so any info would help.