This bloke has an LPG XJ.... I found his build thread for you. I know he talks about working on the LPG system in the thread. Sorry, I was too lazy to actually find the pages it was on, but the whole thread is a good read and I'm sure you'd probably appreciate reading the whole thing anyway.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/pr...-right-176065/

 

It will ride like absolute crap and your drive shaft could fall out, you'll need modify the steering, rest of the suspension, and driveline for a 5" lift.

Also yes it'll look a little goofy.

 

I just posted the chart for him in the other thread. I feel pictures are worth more than words

 

I originally considered just the ****. Since the T Handle pops off so easy, I thought there may be something like a pear shaped one with the push **** on the top( or side, or where ever)

Maybe something off a dodge/chrysler product.

I was hoping someone would chime in with a " The **** from my Bentley fits perfectly" kind of post.

 

Here in the Dominican Republic, it seems like EVERYONE runs LPG on their vehicles. I've never been a fan, so I stick to good old gasoline, as expensive as it is.

It's very common to see kits installed on new cars and trucks too. The system itself is not that complicated.

I would say try to find a "rebuild" kit for your regulator, and throw that in first. Clean the system while you're at it.

I don't know how popular LPG is there, but shops that work on the system are very common here. I'd look around and see if you can find one to trouble shoot if the rebuild kit doesn't solve the problem.

 

Propane powered vehicles are harder on spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor because it takes more "juice" to fire propane than gasoline.

Make sure all of that is new first. No fancy plugs. NGK coppers work great.

 

It has far more to do with tire size/weight and the terrain than it has to do with intelligence. You won't ever break tons with 31s, no matter what you do to them... but you also won't have any ground clearance, and you'll spend more on axles than on your lift and two sets of tires.

It's all about matching the parts to what you plan to do

 

80's-early 90's Chevy Camaro/Pontiac Firebird ***** w/center button will work.

 

That generation ran '82-92

 

Speaking of auto trans shifter, is there an easy way to adjust the linkage ???


Mine seems to not quite line up with the labels, to the point where I think it is hitting the end of the plastic slot before getting down to "Low 1".


Can I just pop out that plastic rectangle that contains the slot, and access anything from there ???


It's not really a big problem, but neutral appears to overlap down into overdrive, overdrive down into 3, etc etc etc

 

ive been wanting an exhaust from mudfrog on performance curve but i dont know what muffler i want i want a quiet enought to talk inside the cab while im driving a really deep sound kinda of dodge cummins diesiel truck noise but like i said quiter

 

Sorry for posting double. Just learning how to use this forum. Thanks for the help guys.

 

I think you can adjust the linkage if you follow it back, link below:


http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...djustments.htm

 

Okay, thanks ... but that seems to be more about the linkage to the ignition switch (which is also sometimes flaky - key doesn't always want to go back to lock and come out).



But I think the problem is the lever connection to the transmission itself: the red mark doesn't line up exactly with the gear numbers on the indicator, so you have to be halfway between "O" and "3" before you are out of neutral.

 

Yeah, the page has both adjustments, one for the shifter cable, your original question and the one for the park lock as well. The problem could be the shifter bezel as well. It's just a bunch of plastic tiles stacked up in a track. Mine got all out of wack and the Orange part slipped under another tile. I bought a fresh one on eBay.