Anyone know if a 87 XJ gas tank skid plate would fit a 01?

 

That's perfect for him. Nearly sig-worthy

Because I couldn't find a 4wd one that wasn't trashed at the time I bought mine, and I really needed a vehicle.... why do you ask

So then I would assume your front hubs look nothing like this:

 

So I've been searching and just can't find it anywhere... I KNOW I've seen someone talk about cleaning the distributor and tips on the best way to do it, but I can't seem to find any posts on it...

Let me start with my problem. 1992 w/ the 4.0

-Starts up fine, slightly rough idle until it warms up

-Drive it anywhere you want, but if you shut it off and then try to start it again 5-10 minutes later, it doesn't want to start - cranks for days, but doesn't want to start. Recently replaced the plugs - all gapped to .035 when installed. I know it needs a tune-up but I won't have the money to do it any time soon.

-Let it sit for maybe an hour (give or take) and it's back to starting up fine without a problem.

Looking for a no-money solution here.

 

Yeah Baltimore looks like one hell of an obstacle course.

Won't fit. Gas tank changed shape and material in 1997.

 

Have you tried the 'poor mans prime'? Turning the key to 'run' position, let fuel pump run until it stops (1-3 seconds). Then repeat, then attempt to start.

My 96 had a similar issue but very rarely, would have to floor gas pedal to get it to start. Problem is linked to coolant sensor in thermostat, go figure.

 

Thanks. I figured it wouldn't but for 60 bucks I thought I shoud ask.

 

Skid from a ZJ will fit if you drill new mounting holes. If you have a trailer hitch or nut strips you can use that as a template

 

Full throttle kicks it into "open loop" mode with default injector pulse ???

 

^ That is how I understand it. Why the correlation to the coolant temp sender I do not know, the CEL code was for that sender/harness.
Some one else had the same issue and new temp sender fixed it (in the thermostat housing).
Forum member CCKen also posted some technical info regarding the issue that confirmed the relation.

 

Yep. ECT sensor is used to determine injector pulse width. May have been to screwy to start.

That said... "warm-up" is supposed to be done in open loop. Open loop idle verus closed loop only changes in the use of the O2 sensor(s).

 

Thank You, one day I may replace that ECT sender.

..I just researched it. Believe I will replace it immediately. I have been suspecting poor mileage and reduced power (wife complains about it when she drives it).

"Related Symptoms to faulty ECT sensor.

Extended crank time when the engine is cold
Poor fuel economy
Spark knock
Lack of engine power
Erratic and/or high idle
Engine cooling fan stays running all the time
Engine cooling fan fails to turn on
Engine overheating"
http://www.freeautomechanic.com/ect-...mperature.html

 

You can test it with a multimeter if you're bored. The ECT and IAT provide the same resistance at the same temperature. With the engine cold you can tell which one is screwy. There's a chart around here somewhere... it's in the FSMs but I know cruiser's posted it before. Same resistance values as the Renix use

 

In process of replacing UCA bushings in axle. Used Moog K3128. The bolts are way looser in the Moogs than the old ones. Think this will be a problem?

 

I'm not much of a forum person so if I do something wrong, please just let me know how to correct it.

I have a 1986 Cherokee with a 2.8 v6 and a AX 5 trans. It has a 'clicking' noise in trans anytime the clutch is out and in all gears except 4th. I think it is a bent shifter fork and its is constantly close to entering fourth causing the clicking.

Any ideas? I would consider buying a trans to put in it. It runs and drives great and has a fresh motor (3000 miles) new suspension and shocks, lift kit. new master cylinder and slave. jmm

 

Good to know. Thanks again.