I ran 31's on saggy stock suspension with a 2" spacer up front and an add a leaf in the rear. No rubbing, stock 15" stealies, only time I got any rubbing was when I was off roading, doing a lot of flexing, but normal street driving no issues. all original fenders and stuff.


all cars and tires are slightly different. I have 31x10.5r15 Hercules all trac AT tires.

https://i.imgur.com/CGt6cuU.jpg

for what ever reason its not letting me insert pictures from imgur, but that's a picture of it when I got the tires.

NOW I have a 3.5" metal cloak lift installed, so I have to wait to see what that does for me (blown head gasket I need to deal with first)

 

You got lucky then. Majority of the time 31's are pushing it. But then again if you had the Upcountry or towing package, your springs were approximately 1-1.5" higher than base models.

 

Passenger side of transmission, center of the case.

 

Mine is an 89, towing came with a d44 rear, and I have a d35 non c clip. I had the base suspension.

 

"to the end of the frame rails where they connect to the bumper" I assume the bottom.

I've never had my bumper off to check

Thanks, though!

 

is either of those it?

 

No reason. Other than ****-poor advice from uninformed dumb****s.

 

The one with the wires coming from it.

 

You never truly know what has been swapped out by PO's. Your tires actually measure 30.5x10.25. So yes, they are basically a 30" tire. Mine was an 85 and came with a D44 but had 3.31 gearing. So we'll chock yours up to luck.

 

Forgot to mention, my 31x10.50's were actually the same diameter as well (just under 31").

 

I'm looking at replacing a bunch of my tie rod ends as long term maintenance, doing the ZJ tie rod upgrade, as well as getting an adjustable track bar all at the same time. Should I get another alignment done, or will this really only affect my steering wheel via drag link & my toe in? Seems easy enough to adjust my toe in via tie rod, and then center my axle with track bar & steering wheel with drag link, ya? My caster was touched up via my LCA boxes when they did my alignment last year post-lift.

Just wondering if I should budget in a few knuckle busters, or $60 for an alignment.

 

No codes with those problems on an OBD-II? That isn't terribly likely.

See if you can borrow or rent a proper scanner that gives you live data. Or if you plan on doing work with any vehicle newer than 1997 ever again in the future pick up a cheapie. I bought my Autel AL-439 for $80 or $90 or so. The live data readout will tell you what the computer is seeing and trying to do so you can troubleshoot. Not as good as a full magic box that say Chrysler engineers use but by far an invaluable tool. Very easy to find sensor problems. A Google search on some relevant articles can teach you how to interpret the data ar better than I can.

 

Hi Funkman1025- question, your Apr2010 posting of Jeep interior. What year and model/style is this? I have a 2001 Cherokee Sport and driving me crazy with electrical problems, want to purchase same Jeep I use to have and if I recall interior looked like this (only complete)

 

Here goes- 2001 Sport- several questions.
1. power windows- when I raise window from power button- terrible noise as window stops at completely up. Sounds like a gear worn (kind of sound of automatic weapon burst). What do I need to replace?
2. Funny ignition gremlins- a) key can be removed from tumbler when jeep running b) sometimes turn key and NOTHING c) sometimes when I turn key jeep turns over a few times and starts. d) sometimes it starts so fast when I turn key like it doesn't turn over it just starts! and sometimes when doing this the starter grinds. Do I need ignition switch? I know I need key tumbler.
3. check gage light goes on and volt meter pegs at 19 volts. Have tried cleaning grounds I know of. Control box to inside fender, battery to starter, replaced alternator (suggestion of short somewhere), new battery, checked voltage when needle pinned and see 13.7 13.2, etc volts. I have not observed at moment needle pegs on gage. If I turn ignition off and back on everything back to normal or if I continue to drive light goes out and volt gage back to normal. I see needle sitting above 13 v and can watch it creep to 14 volts and then it may sit there or go up slightly and then it pegs out and check gage light goes on. Never have check engine light come on.
4. Power doors/windows- power windows only work from driver console, do not work from the other doors. Power window lock not sure if works no sound when pressed. Also when pressing door lock, window lock, etc the lights on power outside mirror directions go out. I have ordered a new controller to see if that fixes it all. Wondering if anything in fuse box would cause all the other window not to function and only work from divers door?


I keep thinking some of the ignition stuff might be a malfunctioning crankshaft position sensor?


Oh I notice that when I get out of jeep dome light is on and when I toggle the power door locks switch the dome light gets dimmer. I have not watched other power items to see what interior lights do.


I hear ground, ground, ground usually the gremlin. Is there someplace that defines the ground locations? I hear engine to firewall, under driver side dash to frame. Help anyone would be greatly appreciated. I need to get jeep ready to get through a Minnesota winter!

 

Hello everyone!! Newbie here. I am sure you have had this question posed a million times, but I'm having difficulties finding info on my exact situation. Recently bought a 1989 Cherokee Laredo and as expected, it has a few issues here and there. The newest one that is blowing my mind is with the heat and a/c.
When I bought it, the heat and a/c worked but only through the defrost vent up top. I went searching for broken vacuum lines, but found nothing. Didn't sweat it, but now nothing is working at all. I turn on the heat or a/c and I get no air, no noise, no nothing. Completely dead! I did just change out the blower fuse and still nothing. Any advice???