Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: General Overview
- Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ 1999 to 2004 Crash Test and Safety Ratings
Important Information to help you understand your Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Browse all: General Overview
XJ Ask the Question Thread
Hey guys I've got a death wobble issue and I need some advice. When ever I'm driving down the free way and I hit a bump in the road my front end completely shakes as if I'm riding a roller coaster and holding on for dear life. My jeep is a 1998 sport completely stock which I purchased a week ago as a project. The suspensions is shot and rusted. the tie rod ends all leak grease. I'm planning on putting a complete long arm kit from iro which will come with a track bar control arms tie rod ends and bushings. So my question is should I fix and diagnose the death wobble while the jeep is in stock form or go ahead and upgrade to see if that will fix it? Thanks.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 4,825
Likes: 2
From: Indianapolis
Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
Haha I know I know a lot of people avoid 00-01s. I embrace It though its been a solid truck for me. 210k and has not left me stranded yet. So with high mileage I'm do for cat anyway, ill probably run scan tool on 02 sensors also because last time I checked they were only producing about .25-.65 volts which from what I thought I read meant that they are bad.
I just cleared the code see what happens. I was getting on it when I merged on highway then light came on lol.
If it happened while giving it throttle merging on the highway its most definitely your cat. You probably pushed it that last bit that made the catalyst fall apart. Lol.
Hey guys I've got a death wobble issue and I need some advice. When ever I'm driving down the free way and I hit a bump in the road my front end completely shakes as if I'm riding a roller coaster and holding on for dear life. My jeep is a 1998 sport completely stock which I purchased a week ago as a project. The suspensions is shot and rusted. the tie rod ends all leak grease. I'm planning on putting a complete long arm kit from iro which will come with a track bar control arms tie rod ends and bushings. So my question is should I fix and diagnose the death wobble while the jeep is in stock form or go ahead and upgrade to see if that will fix it? Thanks.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 674
Likes: 0
From: SouthEast PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Can you recommend a decent replacement cat? Something that I can either bolt on or weld on
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 4,825
Likes: 2
From: Indianapolis
Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
ok .. so .. start her up cold no problem little sluggish but im not sure if its in my head from driving the new DD. drive for maybe 15-20 min.. shut her down..and any time after that that the engine is still warm, starts up no problem but is real sluggish, idles ok (always has a slight shudder while idling), when i start to get it rolling if i take my foot off the gas it instantly drops rpm down to about 500 and if i brake the needle almost bottoms out until i come to a complete stop then evens out to just under 1k. after that its gone .. i checked injectors for any leaking and turned up nothing, all good.. both manifolds have recently had to be replaced.. and as far as i can tell there are no leaks (used starter fluid) haven't tried to seafoam it yet since i got the manifolds on (i say that because it has eaten almost half a can at once before replacing them and wouldn't stall).. and now i written a book
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Dude with the Bank 2 Low Cat Efficiency: you have the California Emissions package with 4 O2s and three cats. That code is triggered by too large of a difference between the upstream and downstream O2 sensors. If they're original, replace all 4. They can get lazy without throwing a code.
The cat that would have the problem is the rear mini one in your exhaust manifold. They are not cheap.
The cat that would have the problem is the rear mini one in your exhaust manifold. They are not cheap.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 4,825
Likes: 2
From: Indianapolis
Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
Dude with the Bank 2 Low Cat Efficiency: you have the California Emissions package with 4 O2s and three cats. That code is triggered by too large of a difference between the upstream and downstream O2 sensors. If they're original, replace all 4. They can get lazy without throwing a code.
The cat that would have the problem is the rear mini one in your exhaust manifold. They are not cheap.
The cat that would have the problem is the rear mini one in your exhaust manifold. They are not cheap.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 674
Likes: 0
From: SouthEast PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Dude with the Bank 2 Low Cat Efficiency: you have the California Emissions package with 4 O2s and three cats. That code is triggered by too large of a difference between the upstream and downstream O2 sensors. If they're original, replace all 4. They can get lazy without throwing a code.
The cat that would have the problem is the rear mini one in your exhaust manifold. They are not cheap.
The cat that would have the problem is the rear mini one in your exhaust manifold. They are not cheap.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
From: Lakewood, CO
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
93 XJ .. rear shoes/pads look close to new ones, whats left on em .. but they stick when wet
drums shot ?
its not a leaky cylinder, only when really wet on roads this happens .. feels sticky when wet overnite .. but it goes away after drivin
fresh rain today .. 1 tire locked up goin 5 mph in parking lot
I have a slight popping from right side rear on normal days .. jeep has 230k on clock w/ no records
thinkin drums .. need re-surface or just get new ones ? good starting point I guess
I removed rear wheels about 2 months ago .. carefully put wheels back on w/ drum in correct position .. I did relax the self-adjuster on brakes
but, after having shop rotate tires, popping sound came back
I thought maybe it was from mag-chloride on roads .. that stuff sucks for car parts .. or thought ice in there .. no ice / no mag / just rain today .. gremlin is back
drums shot ?
its not a leaky cylinder, only when really wet on roads this happens .. feels sticky when wet overnite .. but it goes away after drivin
fresh rain today .. 1 tire locked up goin 5 mph in parking lot
I have a slight popping from right side rear on normal days .. jeep has 230k on clock w/ no records
thinkin drums .. need re-surface or just get new ones ? good starting point I guess
I removed rear wheels about 2 months ago .. carefully put wheels back on w/ drum in correct position .. I did relax the self-adjuster on brakes
but, after having shop rotate tires, popping sound came back
I thought maybe it was from mag-chloride on roads .. that stuff sucks for car parts .. or thought ice in there .. no ice / no mag / just rain today .. gremlin is back
Last edited by dogkatcher; May 20, 2013 at 10:06 PM.
i have a 1992 cherokee and i just got done putting the axles and driveshafts from an 89 sport under the 92. the front driveshaft is too long even at full compresstion also with the frame jacked up and the axle hanging freely. i put adjustable lower control arms in maybe they are not adjusted to the right length? also the rear driveshaft is too short it fits in and drives but there is a lot of play in it. is there any other driveshafts that are long enough to fit the rear i dont have a sye setup in the reat but i do in the front i plan on going to the junkyard and seeing if i cant find one long enough.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
From: Lakewood, CO
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO




