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Old May 20, 2013 | 07:31 PM
  #30931  
stitch702's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Sin City
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
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Hey guys I've got a death wobble issue and I need some advice. When ever I'm driving down the free way and I hit a bump in the road my front end completely shakes as if I'm riding a roller coaster and holding on for dear life. My jeep is a 1998 sport completely stock which I purchased a week ago as a project. The suspensions is shot and rusted. the tie rod ends all leak grease. I'm planning on putting a complete long arm kit from iro which will come with a track bar control arms tie rod ends and bushings. So my question is should I fix and diagnose the death wobble while the jeep is in stock form or go ahead and upgrade to see if that will fix it? Thanks.
Old May 20, 2013 | 07:50 PM
  #30932  
DieselD's Avatar
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From: Indianapolis
Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by Bretts2000XJ

Haha I know I know a lot of people avoid 00-01s. I embrace It though its been a solid truck for me. 210k and has not left me stranded yet. So with high mileage I'm do for cat anyway, ill probably run scan tool on 02 sensors also because last time I checked they were only producing about .25-.65 volts which from what I thought I read meant that they are bad.

I just cleared the code see what happens. I was getting on it when I merged on highway then light came on lol.
Yea o2s might be do for replacement anyways.

If it happened while giving it throttle merging on the highway its most definitely your cat. You probably pushed it that last bit that made the catalyst fall apart. Lol.
Old May 20, 2013 | 07:51 PM
  #30933  
multiperpus's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: CT
Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by stitch702
Hey guys I've got a death wobble issue and I need some advice. When ever I'm driving down the free way and I hit a bump in the road my front end completely shakes as if I'm riding a roller coaster and holding on for dear life. My jeep is a 1998 sport completely stock which I purchased a week ago as a project. The suspensions is shot and rusted. the tie rod ends all leak grease. I'm planning on putting a complete long arm kit from iro which will come with a track bar control arms tie rod ends and bushings. So my question is should I fix and diagnose the death wobble while the jeep is in stock form or go ahead and upgrade to see if that will fix it? Thanks.
if its only during a bump i would say check your ball joints and hubs as far as things not listed in your plans go.
Old May 20, 2013 | 08:04 PM
  #30934  
Bretts2000XJ's Avatar
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From: SouthEast PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by DieselD

Yea o2s might be do for replacement anyways.

If it happened while giving it throttle merging on the highway its most definitely your cat. You probably pushed it that last bit that made the catalyst fall apart. Lol.
Can you recommend a decent replacement cat? Something that I can either bolt on or weld on
Old May 20, 2013 | 08:08 PM
  #30935  
DieselD's Avatar
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From: Indianapolis
Year: '99 and '91
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Originally Posted by Bretts2000XJ

Can you recommend a decent replacement cat? Something that I can either bolt on or weld on
performance-curve.com by far the cheapest I've seen. I haven't personally ordered from them, but there seems to be plenty of happy XJers who have.
Old May 20, 2013 | 08:09 PM
  #30936  
multiperpus's Avatar
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From: CT
Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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ok .. so .. start her up cold no problem little sluggish but im not sure if its in my head from driving the new DD. drive for maybe 15-20 min.. shut her down..and any time after that that the engine is still warm, starts up no problem but is real sluggish, idles ok (always has a slight shudder while idling), when i start to get it rolling if i take my foot off the gas it instantly drops rpm down to about 500 and if i brake the needle almost bottoms out until i come to a complete stop then evens out to just under 1k. after that its gone .. i checked injectors for any leaking and turned up nothing, all good.. both manifolds have recently had to be replaced.. and as far as i can tell there are no leaks (used starter fluid) haven't tried to seafoam it yet since i got the manifolds on (i say that because it has eaten almost half a can at once before replacing them and wouldn't stall).. and now i written a book
Old May 20, 2013 | 08:20 PM
  #30937  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Dude with the Bank 2 Low Cat Efficiency: you have the California Emissions package with 4 O2s and three cats. That code is triggered by too large of a difference between the upstream and downstream O2 sensors. If they're original, replace all 4. They can get lazy without throwing a code.

The cat that would have the problem is the rear mini one in your exhaust manifold. They are not cheap.
Old May 20, 2013 | 08:24 PM
  #30938  
DieselD's Avatar
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From: Indianapolis
Year: '99 and '91
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Originally Posted by salad
Dude with the Bank 2 Low Cat Efficiency: you have the California Emissions package with 4 O2s and three cats. That code is triggered by too large of a difference between the upstream and downstream O2 sensors. If they're original, replace all 4. They can get lazy without throwing a code.

The cat that would have the problem is the rear mini one in your exhaust manifold. They are not cheap.
See told you. Don't know much about them. Lol hence why I stay away... too many o2s and emission crap. I don't even like that my 99 has a downstream o2.
Old May 20, 2013 | 08:34 PM
  #30939  
Bretts2000XJ's Avatar
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From: SouthEast PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by salad
Dude with the Bank 2 Low Cat Efficiency: you have the California Emissions package with 4 O2s and three cats. That code is triggered by too large of a difference between the upstream and downstream O2 sensors. If they're original, replace all 4. They can get lazy without throwing a code.

The cat that would have the problem is the rear mini one in your exhaust manifold. They are not cheap.
Ok thanks for the info that makes sense. I'll have to cough up and do all four then I'm sure they are all original. I was curious how my exhaust could have a bank 2.. California emissions explains that. The Jeep was sold at a dealer in either Pa or Nj why the hell does it have California emissions...
Old May 20, 2013 | 10:03 PM
  #30940  
dogkatcher's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Lakewood, CO
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Default Rusty drum = brake lockup ?

93 XJ .. rear shoes/pads look close to new ones, whats left on em .. but they stick when wet

drums shot ?

its not a leaky cylinder, only when really wet on roads this happens .. feels sticky when wet overnite .. but it goes away after drivin


fresh rain today .. 1 tire locked up goin 5 mph in parking lot


I have a slight popping from right side rear on normal days .. jeep has 230k on clock w/ no records

thinkin drums .. need re-surface or just get new ones ? good starting point I guess

I removed rear wheels about 2 months ago .. carefully put wheels back on w/ drum in correct position .. I did relax the self-adjuster on brakes

but, after having shop rotate tires, popping sound came back

I thought maybe it was from mag-chloride on roads .. that stuff sucks for car parts .. or thought ice in there .. no ice / no mag / just rain today .. gremlin is back

Last edited by dogkatcher; May 20, 2013 at 10:06 PM.
Old May 20, 2013 | 10:14 PM
  #30941  
PaulLunsford's Avatar
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Model: Cherokee
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i have a 1992 cherokee and i just got done putting the axles and driveshafts from an 89 sport under the 92. the front driveshaft is too long even at full compresstion also with the frame jacked up and the axle hanging freely. i put adjustable lower control arms in maybe they are not adjusted to the right length? also the rear driveshaft is too short it fits in and drives but there is a lot of play in it. is there any other driveshafts that are long enough to fit the rear i dont have a sye setup in the reat but i do in the front i plan on going to the junkyard and seeing if i cant find one long enough.
Old May 20, 2013 | 10:14 PM
  #30942  
Lowrange2's Avatar
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Joined: May 2008
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
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Change the shoes and resurface the drums to get rid of the sticking.
Old May 20, 2013 | 10:16 PM
  #30943  
dogkatcher's Avatar
Seasoned Member
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 275
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From: Lakewood, CO
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
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Originally Posted by lowrange2
Change the shoes and resurface the drums to get rid of the sticking.
planned on refurbing rear brakes anyway

how much is involved in switching to discs ? and cost
Old May 20, 2013 | 10:18 PM
  #30944  
ccooper1234's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,812
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From: South Mills, NC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Rebuilt 4.0L I6
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What size bump stops do I need for a 2"-2.5 lift?
Old May 20, 2013 | 10:24 PM
  #30945  
wiggles's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 9,897
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From: shawnee,ks
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by ccooper1234
What size bump stops do I need for a 2"-2.5 lift?
Flex it after the lift and see, we can't tell you the correct size



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