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Old May 21, 2013 | 08:41 AM
  #30961  
DieselD's Avatar
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Rock auto is great. I assume since the NGK plugs there are only listed as copper that's what I should get? That's what I've always bought, copper. I don't even know how i got to plugs when I was talking about o2s. Guess I'll find those first.
Old May 21, 2013 | 08:45 AM
  #30962  
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For anyone who searches

99 Cherokee 4.0 o2 sensors

NTK #23151 (Upstream)

NTK #23099 (Downstream)

EDIT: Also rock auto seems to have the best deal.

Last edited by DieselD; May 21, 2013 at 08:57 AM.
Old May 21, 2013 | 08:45 AM
  #30963  
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Yeah NGK V-Power are the copper ones. ZFR5N

NTK is a brand of NGK. Probably means something in Japanese.
Old May 21, 2013 | 08:56 AM
  #30964  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Remove the existing plug. Put new one in, using new washer. The plug strips, not the pan. Get the new plug first. While loosening the old plug, use a flat blade screwdriver if necessary to apply downward pressure under the drain plug bolt head.
Ok that makes sense. Im picking up a new one as soon as oreillys opens. Thanks for the help. Lol sometimes simple things manage to confuse me alot.
Old May 21, 2013 | 11:19 AM
  #30965  
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I'm getting ready to order a lift kit finally and I was wondering, what is the purpose of doing a long arm upgrade? Do I have to? And if so, at what height do I need to upgrade? I'm looking at a rc 3" aal with a 2" budget boost.
Old May 21, 2013 | 11:31 AM
  #30966  
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Originally Posted by Buddo95
I'm getting ready to order a lift kit finally and I was wondering, what is the purpose of doing a long arm upgrade? Do I have to? And if so, at what height do I need to upgrade? I'm looking at a rc 3" aal with a 2" budget boost.
Wait so youre looking to do an aal in the rear and 2" coil spacers upfront?

And long iirc is for either 4.5" and up but someone can correct me if I'm wrong
Old May 21, 2013 | 11:39 AM
  #30967  
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My dad has a 2000 xj that through a rod. I can get a 4.0 out of a 98 Zj with 30k miles for ridiculously cheap. Will the Zj block work in the xj?
Old May 21, 2013 | 11:44 AM
  #30968  
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Originally Posted by SoCalxJ4.0
My dad has a 2000 xj that through a rod. I can get a 4.0 out of a 98 Zj with 30k miles for ridiculously cheap. Will the Zj block work in the xj?
Yep. You can keep the head too and get rid of that 0331 crap, just have to figure out some tabs to hold the coil rail in place.
Old May 21, 2013 | 11:45 AM
  #30969  
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Originally Posted by salad

Yep. You can keep the head too and get rid of that 0331 crap, just have to figure out some tabs to hold the coil rail in place.
So all the accessories and everything bolts up? Just use whole thing and fix exhaust?
Old May 21, 2013 | 11:46 AM
  #30970  
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch

Wait so youre looking to do an aal in the rear and 2" coil spacers upfront?

And long iirc is for either 4.5" and up but someone can correct me if I'm wrong
Long arms kits generally begin at 4.5" because that's where a short arm kit starts delivering a harsh ride. Long arms give better on-road manners to those higher lift height. They also have the potential to allow for more suspension travel if your setup is tuned properly.

If you're considering a RC AAL, you don't need long arms.
Old May 21, 2013 | 12:04 PM
  #30971  
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Originally Posted by salad

That is worth something actually. A lot of people don't understand what the downstream O2s do on OBD-II Jeeps and often just replace the upstreams. I'd replace the downstreams and see if your code stays away. You'd also do well to check the fuses in the PDC. Sounds like your heater might not be working. don't forget to check out the wiring while you're there. Give the vehicle-side connector a cleaning.

NTK is a Chrysler thing actually. Bosch was back in Renix days. RockAuto's parts selector has the right numbers
Man until you said something I would have never looked for 2 more. I'm going to do exactly that. Replacing both downstreams and then going to drive it a couple hundred miles and see what happens. Pa just does a readiness test through obd2 for emissions so hopefully straightened out before then. Im going to look into the heater and see if a fuse is bad or any wiring looks bad. It's in a harsh environment so anything's possible.
Old May 21, 2013 | 12:05 PM
  #30972  
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Originally Posted by SoCalxJ4.0
So all the accessories and everything bolts up? Just use whole thing and fix exhaust?
100% on the block, head I think is identical. Check the casting number on it. Should be obvious, though, there's really not much special about them.

Coil rail can be held on like this
Old May 21, 2013 | 12:10 PM
  #30973  
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Originally Posted by salad

100% on the block, head I think is identical. Check the casting number on it. Should be obvious, though, there's really not much special about them.

Coil rail can be held on like this
Thanks Salad
Old May 21, 2013 | 12:33 PM
  #30974  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

Long arms kits generally begin at 4.5" because that's where a short arm kit starts delivering a harsh ride. Long arms give better on-road manners to those higher lift height. They also have the potential to allow for more suspension travel if your setup is tuned properly.

If you're considering a RC AAL, you don't need long arms.
Alright thanks man, I am doing the full 3" lift from rc and putting on 2" shackles and coil spacers for 5". Good to know that I need to get long arms. Anyone know of a good place to get em for not expensive?
Old May 21, 2013 | 12:47 PM
  #30975  
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Originally Posted by Buddo95

Alright thanks man, I am doing the full 3" lift from rc and putting on 2" shackles and coil spacers for 5". Good to know that I need to get long arms. Anyone know of a good place to get em for not expensive?
You don't need them, but they can be beneficial. Iron Rock Offroad has one of the cheapest setups, but there are a lot or arguments about their system. The other place to look is Serious Offroad. Besides that, Rock Krawler, T&T, and Clayton are the big dogs.



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