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XJ Ask the Question Thread
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
You can do it yourself just dispose of old fluids in an enviornmental way and use distilled water and anti freeze to fill up
Cherokee
98 cherokee starts hard, stalls, runs, stalls, runs, stalls, then runs fine
Pulleeeze help!! My '98, 4.0, 6 cyl. Cherokee (Sport? Bought used. Has Police Package, no insignia) starts, stalls, starts, stalls, runs, keeps running, stalling, running for a mile or so, then runs for a while longer then tries to stall again and after a few miles, runs just fine remaining 20 miles to my job. After sitting for a few hours the whole cycle repeats itself. Tried STP Gas Treatment and Sea Foam fuel system cleaner. Computer check shows no codes. Check engine light not on. This started after two straight weeks of rain, if that's a clue.
Pulleeeze help!! My '98, 4.0, 6 cyl. Cherokee (Sport? Bought used. Has Police Package, no insignia) starts, stalls, starts, stalls, runs, keeps running, stalling, running for a mile or so, then runs for a while longer then tries to stall again and after a few miles, runs just fine remaining 20 miles to my job. After sitting for a few hours the whole cycle repeats itself. Tried STP Gas Treatment and Sea Foam fuel system cleaner. Computer check shows no codes. Check engine light not on. This started after two straight weeks of rain, if that's a clue.
Last edited by garymiceli; Jun 12, 2013 at 01:59 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
Likes: 11
From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
Cherokee
98 cherokee starts hard, stalls, runs, stalls, runs, stalls, then runs fine
Pulleeeze help!! My '98, 4.0, 6 cyl. Cherokee (Sport? Bought used. Has Police Package, no insignia) starts, stalls, starts, stalls, runs, keeps running, stalling, running for a mile or so, then runs for a while longer then tries to stall again and after a few miles, runs just fine. After sitting for a few hours the whole cycle repeats itself. Tried STP Gas Treatment and Sea Foam fuel system cleaner. Computer check shows no codes. Check engine light not on. This started after two straight weeks of rain, if that's a clue.
Pulleeeze help!! My '98, 4.0, 6 cyl. Cherokee (Sport? Bought used. Has Police Package, no insignia) starts, stalls, starts, stalls, runs, keeps running, stalling, running for a mile or so, then runs for a while longer then tries to stall again and after a few miles, runs just fine. After sitting for a few hours the whole cycle repeats itself. Tried STP Gas Treatment and Sea Foam fuel system cleaner. Computer check shows no codes. Check engine light not on. This started after two straight weeks of rain, if that's a clue.
Mine was doing something similar. Swapped out the O2 sensor and it hasn't done it sense. Tho, mine was throwing a code.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
Likes: 11
From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
I already answered you.
"I welded a 1" fender washer the end of a piece of all thread. Basically used it as a shovel. That or you can pull the carrier out, pull the seal (Which it sounds like you need to do anyways) then cram a rag in there and push it out the end with something long."
"I welded a 1" fender washer the end of a piece of all thread. Basically used it as a shovel. That or you can pull the carrier out, pull the seal (Which it sounds like you need to do anyways) then cram a rag in there and push it out the end with something long."
(Posted this in the wrong spot this morning, i see it should have went here.)
Hi everyone,
Sorry for the noob questions and the simplicity I’m requesting, I have not worked on many vehicles in the past and am learning. I appreciate any help.
I just purchased a 1993 Cherokee Country 4.0 4 door that has some rust issues at the bottom of the front doors (under the decorative molding) and the rocker panels are shot.
I am mostly concerned with fixing the rust, rather than "looks"but I don’t want it to look like the face of a teenager going through puberty when i'm done either.
So after reading, searching, reading some more than searching even more after that, i have come to the conclusion that:
1) To fix the rockers, i should buy them from C2C on rockauto, for $20 aside?
2) It looks like the backs are fine, but after grinding the current cancer off them, that may change. But the hammer says they are solid right now. (i ripped off the old, rusted out rocker fronts) I'm not excited about spending $90 a side for the inner rocker, if i need it. Are there any other options, if I’m not educated on "fabricating new ones"? Does someone else make less expensive inners? The sills are good still.
3) It sounds like these rocker panels are designed to fit over the old rusted ones? Is this true? Why would someone leave the cancer there and simply cover it up? What should I expect, since i dont have the fronts "to cover" these new ones with? Will i need to rig up something? what?
The Doors:
The outer skin is completely rusted through, but only under the molding(4"- 6"inches wide and the length of the door)
From what i have found, my options are to grind of all the rust, fiber glass and fill the door and bondo it back to shape....OR, cut it out and replace it with a skin, weld the skin on, grind the welds down, putty the shat out of it,and paint it...OR buy a door from a yard for $150 and replace the whole darn thing.
I found skins for $52 bucks, but theni have to find a friend that has a welder and can weld, etc..
What would you guys suggest?
I don’t have a lot of money, but i do have time. I don’t mind learning. Andi catch on pretty quick, as long as i have someone that knows what they aredoing explaining it to me.
The section behind the rear wheels is also rusted under the molding. isthere a "small skin" for that section, or do they only sell entirefenders when this rusts out? What would they call these?
Is $150 per door a fair price if i decide to buy them from a yard? I see theyards also sell just the inner panels, the glass, etc... Would it be unreasonable to offer them 1/2 the price and tell them they can pull all the other saleable items off the door?
Sorry for all the questions, but i want to get as much info as i can, or atleast get pointed in the right direction with some of these issues.
Cheers!
Oh, one last thing, I have a few very small rust spots onthe chrome rear bumper, Do I need to grind/strip off all of the chrome on the bumper, if I plan to grind the rustoff and paint the whole bumper, or can I just paint right over the chrome andexpect it not to flake off with the chrome?
Hi everyone,
Sorry for the noob questions and the simplicity I’m requesting, I have not worked on many vehicles in the past and am learning. I appreciate any help.
I just purchased a 1993 Cherokee Country 4.0 4 door that has some rust issues at the bottom of the front doors (under the decorative molding) and the rocker panels are shot.
I am mostly concerned with fixing the rust, rather than "looks"but I don’t want it to look like the face of a teenager going through puberty when i'm done either.
So after reading, searching, reading some more than searching even more after that, i have come to the conclusion that:
1) To fix the rockers, i should buy them from C2C on rockauto, for $20 aside?
2) It looks like the backs are fine, but after grinding the current cancer off them, that may change. But the hammer says they are solid right now. (i ripped off the old, rusted out rocker fronts) I'm not excited about spending $90 a side for the inner rocker, if i need it. Are there any other options, if I’m not educated on "fabricating new ones"? Does someone else make less expensive inners? The sills are good still.
3) It sounds like these rocker panels are designed to fit over the old rusted ones? Is this true? Why would someone leave the cancer there and simply cover it up? What should I expect, since i dont have the fronts "to cover" these new ones with? Will i need to rig up something? what?
The Doors:
The outer skin is completely rusted through, but only under the molding(4"- 6"inches wide and the length of the door)
From what i have found, my options are to grind of all the rust, fiber glass and fill the door and bondo it back to shape....OR, cut it out and replace it with a skin, weld the skin on, grind the welds down, putty the shat out of it,and paint it...OR buy a door from a yard for $150 and replace the whole darn thing.
I found skins for $52 bucks, but theni have to find a friend that has a welder and can weld, etc..
What would you guys suggest?
I don’t have a lot of money, but i do have time. I don’t mind learning. Andi catch on pretty quick, as long as i have someone that knows what they aredoing explaining it to me.
The section behind the rear wheels is also rusted under the molding. isthere a "small skin" for that section, or do they only sell entirefenders when this rusts out? What would they call these?
Is $150 per door a fair price if i decide to buy them from a yard? I see theyards also sell just the inner panels, the glass, etc... Would it be unreasonable to offer them 1/2 the price and tell them they can pull all the other saleable items off the door?
Sorry for all the questions, but i want to get as much info as i can, or atleast get pointed in the right direction with some of these issues.
Cheers!
Oh, one last thing, I have a few very small rust spots onthe chrome rear bumper, Do I need to grind/strip off all of the chrome on the bumper, if I plan to grind the rustoff and paint the whole bumper, or can I just paint right over the chrome andexpect it not to flake off with the chrome?
CF Veteran

Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,493
Likes: 0
From: Chickamauga Ga.
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
My jeep Is back firing through the intake, but only when the throttle is open. Fluids are good, I can't see any vacuum leaks, it just started doing it when I cranked I up after work today. It sound like a cylinder may be missing as well. Does anybody have a clue?
Member


Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 209
Likes: 18
From: Plymouth, England
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
My 1998 XJ with factory keyless entry stopped honking the horn when I lock it years ago.
I've tried to enable it again by holding lock for 5-10 seconds, then pressing and releasing unlock, but I just can't get it to work!
Any ideas?
I've tried to enable it again by holding lock for 5-10 seconds, then pressing and releasing unlock, but I just can't get it to work!
Any ideas?
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Yeah. Leave it alone. That's obnoxious as hell when those horns honk at unsuspecting pedestrians such as myself who are already nervous walking through parking lots full of stupid drivers..
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So here I am...a newbie. I've been trying to figure out why my xj overheats. I have an interior temp gauge and for the last year it hasn't gone much over 210 or so. My problem lies to how fast it heats up. From my house to my school is about a mile. From a cold start to the time I get to class, I'm running about 215. If I idle for about 5 mins it already hits about 190, is this normal or do I have some issues? I don't even wanna drive it cuz I'm nervous that I'm gonna overheat. I replaced my fan clutch and since my A/C doesn't work I wired the aux fan to a switch but it's not really helping. I wanted to see if anybody else has this problem or how I should go about addressing it? A friend of mine says that I need to gear my axles since I'm running stock gears, but I don't see how that'll help my problem. 

its not running hot- this is normal... if it bothers you, you can purchase a new cooler-running thermostat from napa or some place, which will help keep it running cooler, but if you idle, it can still get over 200




