Beat me to it. I don't know what the plugs are made of, steel, aluminum, or an alloy.

 

Sounds like the finish threads are long gone and the starter threads are still there but the pan is too gummed up to grip.

Who tightened it last?

 

Thanks Cruiser, for the quick response!

 

See above

 

You're welcome.

 

A gorilla, no doubt. That's why they use that nice little crush washer. So you can replace it each time and not reef on the bolt so frickin hard.

 

Ah, I didn't read that far back.

Yup. Drill a big hole in it and thread a slider hammer in there. Pop it a couple times and try to turn it.

 

Remove fill plug on transfer case , stick finger or other in. Fluid should be red, not smell burnt, and be level with the fill hole.

Slip yoke varies in year. 1996 and prior it's non-greaseable. 1997+ you must remove the rear drive shaft and pack the transfer case's splined output with grease (the bit hiding under the black rubber boot that's strapped on)

 

No Start, No Fuel? Greetings Jeepers! Here's a puzzle for you! (I'll break this up into a few posts to make it a little more readable.) While traveling at 70 mph down the interstate, my 1996 Cherokee's engine just quit. (2.5l, manual, 4x4) Speedo went to zero, power steering went dead, and it just rolled to a halt. The engine cranks but acts like it's out of gas. (I had 1/4 tank and had just added another $20 a few miles earlier.) The lights are working, buzzers buzzing, radio, etc....) Checked all the usual "side of the road" stuff but didn't see anything wrong. (Hoses all connected, belt in position, coolant full, oil good.) Had to have it towed home. (Thank goodness for AAA!)

 

Now for the troubleshooting: Since it sounded like it wasn't getting any gas, I checked to see if I could hear the fuel pump turn on with the key in the on position. Nothing but silence. Checked all fuses and the Fuel Pump, ASD, and Starter relays. Since the engine was cranking I swapped the Fuel Pump and ASD relays into the starter position and the starter still turned so I'm guessing that the relays were all good. To double check the gas, I disconnected the fuel line and tried to start it. (I figured that if the pump were working and I just didn't hear it I would get some fuel from the line. I have no idea if this is true or not but I didn't get any fuel coming from the fuel line either.) So I'm thinking it's some kind of electrical issue. I pulled a spark plug and checked for spark. I found old plugs that needed to be replaced but no spark. I replaced all the spark plugs and even invested in an in-line spark tester and didn't get any spark even with the new plugs. So far we've got, no spark and no fuel. Moving on.....

 

Wondering what was common to the fuel system and the ignition system, I thought about the ECU. Ironically, my daughter's boyfriend drives the exact same 1996 Jeep Cherokee (color and everything!) EXCEPT his is the 4.0l. We took the ECU out of my 2.5l and tried it in his 4.0l. (Upon further investigation, I don't think the two are interchangeable but my son SWEARS he heard the fuel pump come on.) The engine would start for just a second but then shut down immediately. I'm thinking that the ECU was working but because it wasn't the right one for his 4.0l it just wouldn't work properly. We were afraid to put his ECU in my jeep because I wasn't sure what would happen and I didn't want to ruin his ECU. We put his ECU back in the 4.0l where it belongs and, thankfully, it started right up! I told him that if he broke down on the way home it most certainly would be coincidence! LOL

 

Possibly the cps is no good. Since you say you have no spark and no fuel

 

Okay, after replacing the heater flow valve which disintegrated from just LOOKING at it, we think the ECU is good (maybe) and am looking for another direction. I've seen mention of the CPS(?) but the symptom of no fuel, no spark came on suddenly and the engine never started again after the initial breakdown. I'll have access to a scanner this evening or tomorrow and will try to pull a code. (There wasn't a check engine light lit.) I have even less knowledge with a volt / ohm meter than I do with a wrench (which ain't much) but it looks like I'm going to have to get one unless I can figure this out. I don't seen any burned or frayed wires under the hood. I'd rather systematically isolate the problem rather than easter egg changing parts due a severe case of $$$ deficiency-osis. The CPS is cheaper than the ECU and I'm wondering if our little 2.5l to 4.0l Frankenstein experiment with the ECU was enough to prove that the ECU is good. Which direction do you think I should go. No spark, No fuel, No fuel pump sounds, engine cranks but will not start. (Oh, we even tried to jump start it! Though the engine cranked a little faster because we're slowly draining the battery with all our starting attempts there was virtually no change.) Thanks in advance!

 

A bad CPS wouldn't effect the fuel pump priming when you turn the key on. If the fuel line is loose and you turn the key on not one drop of fuel squirts out?

 

Have you tried starting fluid sprayed in the throttle body