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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 12:43 PM
  #47416  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by DJP
Hi,

I'm new to the forum. I've been trying to get information on the following, but only seem to get the wrong info.

Jeep, Cherokee, 2.8. CDR Limited 05 plate.
Someone has bodged in an after market radio so I'd like to fix. The problem is I need to know the pinout colours and which speakers they relate to. Very grateful if anyone can help. The after market uses the standard modern colours so I just need to match up those from the car.

Cheers

Dale.

Hey Dale,

Chrysler actually renamed the Cherokee line to "Liberty" in 2001 for the North American market. Unfortunately for you this site is American, so you won't find any Cherokees here between 2001 and 2014.

There's a great site over at http://www.lostjeeps.com/ that focuses on the KJ platform, though.

Good luck!
Old Dec 22, 2014 | 01:43 PM
  #47417  
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DJP
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Appreciate the info. Will check out.

Cheers

Dale

Originally Posted by salad
Hey Dale,

Chrysler actually renamed the Cherokee line to "Liberty" in 2001 for the North American market. Unfortunately for you this site is American, so you won't find any Cherokees here between 2001 and 2014.

There's a great site over at http://www.lostjeeps.com/ that focuses on the KJ platform, though.

Good luck!
Old Dec 22, 2014 | 02:06 PM
  #47418  
ITTs_Cole's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2014
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From: Hagerstown MD
Year: 93
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 w/Flux Capacitor
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International shipping costs extra
Old Dec 22, 2014 | 03:12 PM
  #47419  
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kgm
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From: Denver
Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Just replaced my fuel injectors & exhaust manifold. Now occasionally its stumbling at idle from 300-1000 rpm, and when I switch it into park it jumps to 1200 for a moment then back down. Sometimes it just idles smooth at 700-800 rpm.

Is this the usual "I smacked the IAC" when doing my exhaust? Can I clean that or is it generally broken from the smacking?

No hissing or anything from exhaust gasket, no leaking from injectors that I can see. Fuel rail pressure was fine yesterday before changing injectors out.
Old Dec 22, 2014 | 05:14 PM
  #47420  
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From: Sheridan, IL
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default 1996 SE Auto Transmission Problem

I bought a 96 SE real cheap from a buddy. Floors were real rusted out and needed a few other things. Ran fine for a few weeks and now it seems to be stuck in 3rd. If i put the shift lever in 1/2 it starts in first and will shift to second as it should. I'm not getting any check engine lights so I cant check for any codes. This is a real low millage jeep (117k) so I doubt the trans is totally trashed.

I've completely drained and refilled the trans with fresh fluid so I know its not a fluid level or quality issue. I've also checked all fuses and they're all good. Any thoughts?
Old Dec 22, 2014 | 05:35 PM
  #47421  
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From: Albuquerque, NM
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by Rcrivolio
I bought a 96 SE real cheap from a buddy. Floors were real rusted out and needed a few other things. Ran fine for a few weeks and now it seems to be stuck in 3rd. If i put the shift lever in 1/2 it starts in first and will shift to second as it should. I'm not getting any check engine lights so I cant check for any codes. This is a real low millage jeep (117k) so I doubt the trans is totally trashed.

I've completely drained and refilled the trans with fresh fluid so I know its not a fluid level or quality issue. I've also checked all fuses and they're all good. Any thoughts?
I bet you have a bad solenoid. It is easy to check and fix.

"To check solenoids in transmission without removing pan - removed plug off TCU that is located Rt side dash under clove box -with key in off pos.- volt/ohm meter check pos. lead terminal C14 converter clutch solenoid should read 11-15 ohms, terminal C15 shift solenoid #2 should read 11-15 ohms, terminal C16 #1 shift solenoid should read 11-15 ohms make sure you have good ground on - lead. If solenoid cks good problem is else were loose wires or tps" originally posted by McRay

That is for a cherokee though.
Old Dec 22, 2014 | 08:52 PM
  #47422  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by ITTs_Cole
International shipping costs extra
FINE YOU CAN KEEP YOUR STUPID FREE FILTERS!



Originally Posted by kgm
Just replaced my fuel injectors & exhaust manifold. Now occasionally its stumbling at idle from 300-1000 rpm, and when I switch it into park it jumps to 1200 for a moment then back down. Sometimes it just idles smooth at 700-800 rpm.

Is this the usual "I smacked the IAC" when doing my exhaust? Can I clean that or is it generally broken from the smacking?

No hissing or anything from exhaust gasket, no leaking from injectors that I can see. Fuel rail pressure was fine yesterday before changing injectors out.
You smacked the IAC?? No bueno
Old Dec 22, 2014 | 10:04 PM
  #47423  
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kgm
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From: Denver
Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by salad
You smacked the IAC?? No bueno
No, I just remember reading people in manifold replacement threads say they messed up some sensors during the reinstall. I might just double check all my connections, and add a touch of grease to the vacuum connections. We're getting dumped on with snow though, so I gotta go ski tomorrow first
Old Dec 22, 2014 | 10:58 PM
  #47424  
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Joined: May 2011
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From: DE
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
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How much can you cut up from the rear lower panel by the bumper before the unibody splits? I have typical rot around that area and don't want to completely fold the whole thing, but partial would be nice.
Old Dec 22, 2014 | 11:02 PM
  #47425  
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Year: 2010
Model: Grand Cherokee
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test
Old Dec 22, 2014 | 11:06 PM
  #47426  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by unidentifiedbomb
How much can you cut up from the rear lower panel by the bumper before the unibody splits? I have typical rot around that area and don't want to completely fold the whole thing, but partial would be nice.
Not sure how you mean... You can cut up as high as the cut & fold area no problem. I actually capped mine slightly below the brackets that hold my 1999's bumper caps on.

Originally Posted by zekips180
test
Test failed. Has to be in the form of a question.
Old Dec 22, 2014 | 11:10 PM
  #47427  
Spaceman's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 7
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From: Nj
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I just replaced the alternator and I started my jeep up and it ran fine for a few minutes so I shut it off and went back inside and went to leave a few hours later and now it starts and runs for two seconds then shuts off I'm mind boggled any help please ???
Old Dec 22, 2014 | 11:47 PM
  #47428  
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Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,028
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From: Hagerstown MD
Year: 93
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 w/Flux Capacitor
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salad....what does your jeep look like?
Old Dec 23, 2014 | 03:25 AM
  #47429  
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Posts: 37
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From: On a beach, MI
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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I've got a LOUD squeak that I've been chasing for some time, I've changed the alternator, idler pulley, and water pump. The terrible sound is coming right from the front, center of the engine right at the water pump. So I'm thinking it's the water pump pulley. I know it doesn't have bearings, but I've changed the belt, and the same groove that was worn in my old one returned to my new belt, with the squeak which had stopped for a day or so with the new belt. I'm wondering if that pulley could cause such a crazy loud noise first of all...and second, when I look for this part, it keeps returning this crown "fan pulley" (53010309) which is said to mount on the water pump. But the actual mopar water pump pulley(53002907) that i found looks to have a larger center opening. I want to know if the crown pulley is the same; or if it'll work.
Old Dec 23, 2014 | 05:16 AM
  #47430  
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From: Dominican Republic
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: inline 6
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Already been done.

I bet a lot of the older guys here will remember the old Amsoil filters that used toilet paper.

I had a neighbor that used to sell them. He would always show me his dipstick with clear clean oil, even after thousands of miles.

I don't know if they're still around, but I seem to remember they got some bad reviews because they removed all the additives from the oil (or something like that)

Anybody remember those?



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