That's very interesting, I've always wondered.... just wasn't curious enough to Google it lol

 

And I'll get a Renix to run with them easily.

 

I'm quite amazed that the 4.0 hangs together for so many miles. It seems like a great little engine to me.

The old 6 cylinder engines ( I'm going back a long way) like the Chevy stove-bolt 6, and flat-head 6s in early Chrysler products, etc, wouldn't stay glued when hot-rodded even a little bit. My cousin & I hopped up the flat head 6 in his '53 Plymouth. It didn't last very long
I always figured it was just the im-balance of the 6 inline cylinder design etc...
The last 6 cylinder I owned was a new '66 Pontiac Tempest Sprint, with the 230 Cu In OHC six, which was quite a little powerhouse for a six. And it didn't shell out like the old sixes.

I'm likely giving away my age here

 

Nah. Mind you, those engines are all mostly junk The 4.0L is revamp of sorts of the AMC engine used in Ramblers etc from the late '60s. I think a decent amount of 232s and 258s are running around somewhere. The Ford 300ci is another great gasoline I6 still used in a lot of industrial applications.

 

Yeah when I first start the car, the battery voltage gauge sits at the white line above 9. Even when I installed both new batteries. Both from costco.

Well both brand new batteries gave me the exact same reading on my voltage gauge. I don't have a multimeter to test them with.
They were both manufactured on different dates, so I feel like it wouldn't be the batteries.

My alt only start charging the battery when I reach 2k+ rpms. It doesn't drop unless I turn on my blower motor which drops it straight down to 9v instantly.
Every morning when I start my car though, its back down to the white line above 9v.

 

What's the condition and age on the serpentine belt? My jeep did the same until I replaced the belt and everything was much better afterwards.

The old belt was so stretched and the rubber was very slippery and caused the alternator to not spin enough to charge.

 

No clue how old it is. Its looking a little used up though, very small cracks, and slight discoloration. Going to replace it as soon as possible.

 

Doing new battery cables for the zj. The ground wire splits one to the block and the other to the alt.

Using marine terminals so should I just run the alt one longer at right to the battery?

 

Could spit fire right now! Finally got that damn passenger side rear hard brake line done and done nice! A million times better than my first attempt. I was lucky to have the guy at AZ help me flare the excess I cut off because I have never flared line before.

And then, out of ****ing left field, the hard line that connects to the axle soft line is leaking bad at the joint. For no reason. Line is a bit rusted, but no pressure or anything!

Im so fed up. Im close to finding the first Vato fanboi Honda owner I can and sell it to him for $1. Can this be fixed without replacing the whole line? No short cuts with compression fittings.. guess I will be trying out flaring. This is such ****.

 

This x10. I have a '95 f150 with the 300 and a manual and besides normal wear items, it hasn't given me a moments trouble in 10 years. Best money I've ever spent.

 

Indeed. I had a '85 f150 with the 300. Loved it and pulled plenty strong with loads similiar to those what I pulled with my '83 f250 with 351

 

When we deal with this old stuff, brake and fuel lines will always need replacing or pieces spliced in. The double flair tool I use, and I've used it a lot !, is a cheapo from Harbor Freight, and works good for me. Best way for a person to get better with it is to practice on a length of line until he can do it without problems.

And when I make up a line, I paint it good after it's in there, to prolong it's life in the road salt.
I had to replace the long line from the front to the rear on my Jeep, one day after I bought it in September ! And likely there wil be more to replace as time goes on.....

In regard to engines, I worked for a Rambler dealer in 1963 for 8 months, when I was laid off from my regular job. Those Ramblers were a real piece of junk in my opinion. Had to get into a couple of the new inline sixes, with bearing problems. I noticed that they used Moraine M400 rod bearings, which had a hard surface instead of the babbitt type flashing layer. Cranks didn't hold up with those bearings. So much for AMC engineering...

 

So will it be possible to splice in a replacement piece IF the line is good a ways back? Is it impossible to do a flare on your back with fluid in your face?

 

You can purge enough brake fluid out to keep it from drizzling on you. The brakes will have to be bled anyway when the line is replaced.
Piecing in sections is the way I do it, if the rest of the line is good. Paint the new line after you replace it. I just spray Rustoleum on mine, your choice of color !
Summit Racing has rolls of line in a few sizes, and also available in stainless steel, which would last longer than the Jeep !

Some lines may be available from the or parts stores. Haven't tried on the Jeep stuff yet.

 

Bill, the M400s were a common bearing back then, most GM motors used them as well. They have greater embedability than babbitted bearings, the automakers liked that because they could get a motor produced under sloppy conditions thru the warranty period. Rambler's engine tooling was kept running long past its useful life...if the crank wore out it was almost certainly due to junk embedded in the bearings, not the bearings themselves.
At one point Kenosha was hand matching pistons to cylinders on the jeep 4.0 due to worn out tooling.