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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 09:27 AM
  #46846  
1991Jeep_Man's Avatar
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From: Fauquier County, Virginia
Year: 1991
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Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
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Originally Posted by steelybill
You can purge enough brake fluid out to keep it from drizzling on you. The brakes will have to be bled anyway when the line is replaced.
Piecing in sections is the way I do it, if the rest of the line is good. Paint the new line after you replace it. I just spray Rustoleum on mine, your choice of color !
Summit Racing has rolls of line in a few sizes, and also available in stainless steel, which would last longer than the Jeep !

Some lines may be available from the or parts stores. Haven't tried on the Jeep stuff yet.
Cool. So purge it down to just, say, 1/8 - 3/16" from being dry? My xj has the old 2 reservoir... reservoir. I don't want to run the MC dry because I've heard that's a bear.

Thanks for your help man. Maybe Vato won't get this XJ after all.... maybe.
Old Nov 23, 2014 | 10:30 AM
  #46847  
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default Snow through the vents?

We had a little snow last week (a fine powder like snow) and when I turned the windshield defroster on there was a plume of snow blowing around the cabin of the jeep.

The xj is a 1999 Sport and I've only had it for about a month. I did a google search and found that other cars without cabin air filters do the same thing but this doesn't seem normal to me. This normal?

Last edited by f1oored; Nov 23, 2014 at 11:23 AM.
Old Nov 23, 2014 | 11:25 AM
  #46848  
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From: Phoenix, A-to-Z
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by 1991Jeep_Man
Could spit fire right now! Finally got that damn passenger side rear hard brake line done and done nice! A million times better than my first attempt. I was lucky to have the guy at AZ help me flare the excess I cut off because I have never flared line before.

And then, out of ****ing left field, the hard line that connects to the axle soft line is leaking bad at the joint. For no reason. Line is a bit rusted, but no pressure or anything!

Im so fed up. Im close to finding the first Vato fanboi Honda owner I can and sell it to him for $1. Can this be fixed without replacing the whole line? No short cuts with compression fittings.. guess I will be trying out flaring. This is such ****.

This might be something like a weakest link in the chain thing. When I picked my XJ, used and neglected, the brakes were super-squishy. I went to bleeding them and they firmed up well...but then all of sudden went squishy again. The greater pressure of the bled brake system resulted in failure of one of the rear brake cylinders. It was gonna go anyway but the extra pressure in the line was the last straw.

Since the lives of you, your loved ones, and the others sharing the road with you are on the line if your brakes fail it is better to make sure they work properly and not take chances. Replace all suspect parts ASAP. New lines for the whole Jeep are only about $75. Cylinders are under $20 each. Not too expensive to replace most of the brake system.
Old Nov 23, 2014 | 12:42 PM
  #46849  
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From: Fauquier County, Virginia
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Originally Posted by Crazy 8s

This might be something like a weakest link in the chain thing. When I picked my XJ, used and neglected, the brakes were super-squishy. I went to bleeding them and they firmed up well...but then all of sudden went squishy again. The greater pressure of the bled brake system resulted in failure of one of the rear brake cylinders. It was gonna go anyway but the extra pressure in the line was the last straw.

Since the lives of you, your loved ones, and the others sharing the road with you are on the line if your brakes fail it is better to make sure they work properly and not take chances. Replace all suspect parts ASAP. New lines for the whole Jeep are only about $75. Cylinders are under $20 each. Not too expensive to replace most of the brake system.
Trust me, I pretty much have. Calipers are new. Rubber break lines are inspected every time I change oil for bulges or rubs. It was bad enough having the line blow on a dirt road. I sure as hell wont risk it on the highway. I just would rather replace a large section of the rusted line (with double flare unions, no compression fittings) rather than the entire snaked line AS LONG AS it is clean all the way back.

Another question: I am not able to work on the Jeep today and need to move it forward a car length so my car isn't off the gravel all week. Will the master cylinder suck air or the front brakes suck air if I use the brakes just the one or two pushes necessary to move it forward? I never got to bleed the brakes in the rear because, surprise, that line is leaking. Will it be bad to have that line empty while awaiting repair?
Old Nov 23, 2014 | 01:16 PM
  #46850  
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Year: 1987
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Originally Posted by 1991Jeep_Man

Trust me, I pretty much have. Calipers are new. Rubber break lines are inspected every time I change oil for bulges or rubs. It was bad enough having the line blow on a dirt road. I sure as hell wont risk it on the highway. I just would rather replace a large section of the rusted line (with double flare unions, no compression fittings) rather than the entire snaked line AS LONG AS it is clean all the way back.

Another question: I am not able to work on the Jeep today and need to move it forward a car length so my car isn't off the gravel all week. Will the master cylinder suck air or the front brakes suck air if I use the brakes just the one or two pushes necessary to move it forward? I never got to bleed the brakes in the rear because, surprise, that line is leaking. Will it be bad to have that line empty while awaiting repair?
You could use the emergency brake. It's what it's there for.
Old Nov 23, 2014 | 02:05 PM
  #46851  
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Originally Posted by drhoward1988
You could use the emergency brake. It's what it's there for.
+1

Otherwise one or two brake applications don't push enough fluid to empty a full master cylinder. I wouldn't do more than that though.
You could also use a vice grips and pinch off the leaking line temporarily, as long as you are replacing it anyway.
Old Nov 23, 2014 | 02:22 PM
  #46852  
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Originally Posted by Radi

+1

Otherwise one or two brake applications don't push enough fluid to empty a full master cylinder. I wouldn't do more than that though.
You could also use a vice grips and pinch off the leaking line temporarily, as long as you are replacing it anyway.
Ive gotta make new cables as my stock ones have frozen/suck with the disc conversion. Good to know on moving it. I'll also probably go ahead and crimp before the union too since, like you said, its getting replaced anyway. Damn, of all the gaskets I've done, the manifolds, NSS, etc... brake jobs suck!
Old Nov 23, 2014 | 04:50 PM
  #46853  
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Unhappy Shifting problems !!!

Hi Guys, how are you ? i have an issue that has been bothering me for the past 4 months since i have rebuilt the transmission... the issue is that my car reverses, parks and drives great except when i put the car onto drive, it shifts really bad or takes time to shift properly or sometimes it shifts normally but most of the time when it does shift normally, the car drives slow and revs until it gives this big bumps and shifts normally afterwards... when it doesn't shift, i have to press the gas until it boost into drive which makes the car jump real bad but it works... although the last time i did it... i broked the rear end yoke and i don't know if its the transmission or is it something related to it... do you guys have any idea ? please respond because i really don't know what to do with this car anymore...
Old Nov 23, 2014 | 05:26 PM
  #46854  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
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Originally Posted by ColombianXJ
Hi Guys, how are you ? i have an issue that has been bothering me for the past 4 months since i have rebuilt the transmission... the issue is that my car reverses, parks and drives great except when i put the car onto drive, it shifts really bad or takes time to shift properly or sometimes it shifts normally but most of the time when it does shift normally, the car drives slow and revs until it gives this big bumps and shifts normally afterwards... when it doesn't shift, i have to press the gas until it boost into drive which makes the car jump real bad but it works... although the last time i did it... i broked the rear end yoke and i don't know if its the transmission or is it something related to it... do you guys have any idea ? please respond because i really don't know what to do with this car anymore...
Was it an auto or standard tranny since I see your name is Colombian xj? If auto, look up free fix, or if someone has the link handy, to adjust the Tv cable. I had a similar issue on my 01 auto until I adjusted that cable
Old Nov 23, 2014 | 05:27 PM
  #46855  
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch

Was it an auto or standard tranny since I see your name is Colombian xj? If auto, look up free fix, or if someone has the link handy, to adjust the Tv cable. I had a similar issue on my 01 auto until I adjusted that cable
Oh and what fluid did you use to fill the tranny back up
Old Nov 23, 2014 | 05:40 PM
  #46856  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by f1oored
We had a little snow last week (a fine powder like snow) and when I turned the windshield defroster on there was a plume of snow blowing around the cabin of the jeep.

The xj is a 1999 Sport and I've only had it for about a month. I did a google search and found that other cars without cabin air filters do the same thing but this doesn't seem normal to me. This normal?
Haven't had this happen but it wouldn't surprise me IF the intake was JAM PACKED full of snow. Really there is no other way this could happen.
Old Nov 23, 2014 | 06:01 PM
  #46857  
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Year: 1996
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Default

Originally Posted by sycoglitch
Was it an auto or standard tranny since I see your name is Colombian xj? If auto, look up free fix, or if someone has the link handy, to adjust the Tv cable. I had a similar issue on my 01 auto until I adjusted that cable
Lol yea im Colombian, the car is an auto, i thought probably it was the TPS but nothing, ill adjust the tv cable and let you guys know how that went i appreciate it soo much !!!
Old Nov 23, 2014 | 07:57 PM
  #46858  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
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Originally Posted by ColombianXJ

Lol yea im Colombian, the car is an auto, i thought probably it was the TPS but nothing, ill adjust the tv cable and let you guys know how that went i appreciate it soo much !!!
Only reason I asked nationality/region was about the tranny lol. Go under the hood. Depress the grey button that is on the plunger(iirc its the cable closest to the front of jeep on the throttle body). While pressing grey button, push plunger all the way in an let to of button. Go inside your jeep and press the skinny lil peddle all the way down and you should hear the TV cable click and adjust.

Edit: oh and where are my manners. What year jeep you have btw and what fluid did you use after rebuild.
Old Nov 23, 2014 | 10:22 PM
  #46859  
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Year: 1993
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Engine: 4.0 ho 99 intake ps pump 1" tb spacer 62mm bored tb eletric fans and more
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possible rearend only when coasting while in gear as soon as I pull it out of gear its gone. its so faint I have to have stereo off and heater off to hear it and I have bare floor boards. ideas on what it could be or am I parinoid?
Old Nov 23, 2014 | 10:59 PM
  #46860  
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Year: 89
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Originally Posted by stang65
possible rearend only when coasting while in gear as soon as I pull it out of gear its gone. its so faint I have to have stereo off and heater off to hear it and I have bare floor boards. ideas on what it could be or am I parinoid?
What?



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