The search function on the site sucks. I've always had much better luck googling stuff. "Jeep Cherokee xj electric fan won't shut off"

Sorry, but I have no info related to your problem.

 

No worries, bud

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/..._Diagnosis.htm

 

Its supposed to do that. If your jeep is overheating, even slightly, the fan will kick on. If you shut it off while its overheating, again, even slightly, the fan will stay on for a minute or two. It's normal, but it does say that it may be time to service your cooling system.

 

Thanks guys! Yeah, I realize it's designed to run as needed to cool, but yesterday was pouring rain and about 60 degrees at most. It kept running for quite a while non stop. I'm certainly willing to have the cooling system serviced since winter is coming (I'm in GA), and the XJ will be parked outside.

I'll Google and check your link, NewKindofClown. We'll see.

BTW, only upgrade so far has been stereo and speakers. Still don't have driver's side door speaker functioning, but found a YouTube video on repairing broken wires inside the rubber boot between the door and frame. Apparently the issues to the Cherokee have been well documented. Still have an entire exhaust system & brakes to upgrade, plus mild lift and tires. This Jeep is mainly for weekends (drums and dogs, haha), so no rush.

 

And again, thank you for your help!!

 

I was looking at my rear bumper and was wondering how you'd remove it.
I see 2 bolts on the bottom side of the bumper, which are easily accessed.
But, there are 2 more bolts up inside the bumper. How do you remove those??

 

Flexible fingers and probably $500 more in specialized tools.

I also find a particular tool that's very useful in this kind of situation... A wrecking ball

 

Anyone have a pic of the long rear brake line that runs from the front of the Jeep (prop valve) to the back axle soft line? Im probably just going to go ahead and replace my whole thing rather than splice. Is it hard to remove?

 

no not that hard to do. If I recall correctly, it's actually two piece.

 

I think you're correct, but that's based on diagrams I've seen while searching. I've never replaced that line on an XJ

 

I replaced mine when I first got it. A piece goes from the prop valve down to the area near LCA mount on the uniframe and another piece goes from there to the soft line connection

 

I replaced that line a day after I got my Jeep ! Don't remember the details (CRS) but I spliced a long length in there....it wasn't a big job by the way...

I had just bought a 25 ft roll of 3/16 inch brake line a week before I bought the Jeep ! Old cars with rusty lines.....repairs never really end unless stainless lines are used...

 

So can the two pieces be dropped as one? I suspect the flare nut is going to be FUBAR like the one at the end. Does the prop valve use a double flare as well? Someone told me to save that fitting because its a different size.

I'll likely be using two pre flared pieces (redoing the one end of course for the special fitting) so that I can easily remove a section if something ever causes it to fail.

 

I recently bought a 99 cherokee sport (4.0L) and have had a number of electrical issues. First off, the high beams did not work, I repleced the sockets and now the headlights work as they should. However I noticed yesterday; whenever I hit the brakes and I have,the headlights OFF the back light on the dash comes on, the radio backlight dims, and the parking lights come on. It only acts maybe half the time I drive it and when the headlightsareon everything worksasitshould. I also noticed thedriversside brake light is out, the filliment looks fine and the sockets clean but I changed the bulb anyways, the tail light works but when I hit the brakes I get nothing.

Thanks, Matt

 

I'd start by cleaning up electrical grounds