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Old Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 08:47 AM
  #48376  
ehall's Avatar
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From: Southern Maryland
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1999 4.0L
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Originally Posted by ehall
You can test clutch fan with a rolled up piece of newspaper. Stick it in the fan blades while the engine is cool-not-cold, and again after its fully warmed up. You should be able to stop it when cool-not-cold, and it should be quite a bit more forceful at operating temperature. The bi-metal spring on the front of the fan kicks in around 160f ambient temp so it can be a bit difficult to get it all the way there.
ps--you might have to use a blow-drier and an infrared temperature reader on the front coil to verify that the clutch isn't engaging at the proper temperature
Old Feb 10, 2015 | 01:05 PM
  #48377  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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I feel like I'm over thinking this...

Turn key to ACC, gauges work
RUN: One single loud click

So relay is working. I think starter.

Tap on the starter a few times
Turn key to ACC, no response
Jiggle positive battery cable, gauges work
Hold terminal in place and turn to RUN
One single loud click

Bad terminal/cable, right? I know the clamp has seen better days, and it's unlikely that the terminal and starter developed problems at the same time
Old Feb 10, 2015 | 02:57 PM
  #48378  
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From: Forest Hill, Maryland
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
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My jeep was just doing that. I'd get new clamps, and cut the wire back if you can. My battery wasn't the best either, but I don't think it was the problem.

I had power until i went to go to start it and then it'd click and go dark.
Old Feb 10, 2015 | 03:47 PM
  #48379  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
I feel like I'm over thinking this...

Turn key to ACC, gauges work
RUN: One single loud click

So relay is working. I think starter.

Tap on the starter a few times
Turn key to ACC, no response
Jiggle positive battery cable, gauges work
Hold terminal in place and turn to RUN
One single loud click

Bad terminal/cable, right? I know the clamp has seen better days, and it's unlikely that the terminal and starter developed problems at the same time
I don't know about Why Jayz but XJs have one starting relay in the cab Junction Block, which fires a starting relay in the PDC, which trips the solenoid, which powers the starter lol.

But yes probably cable/connection.
Old Feb 10, 2015 | 04:21 PM
  #48380  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Bad cable clamp, as expected. Replaced it after I managed to get it started for a run to the parts store. Seems better now
Old Feb 10, 2015 | 04:40 PM
  #48381  
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Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Bad cable clamp, as expected. Replaced it after I managed to get it started for a run to the parts store. Seems better now
Clean the wire up a little too while it was off? Or cut the wire and use a new point of contact?
Old Feb 10, 2015 | 04:47 PM
  #48382  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by kuzican

Clean the wire up a little too while it was off? Or cut the wire and use a new point of contact?
Option 2. It was a sealed unit, and I replaced it with a clamp-down style til I can get a new set of proper cables
Old Feb 10, 2015 | 04:47 PM
  #48383  
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kgm
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What parts are guys going OEM for the cooling system? Trying to save a few bucks where I can without having it blow up overheating.
Old Feb 10, 2015 | 05:18 PM
  #48384  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Option 2. It was a sealed unit, and I replaced it with a clamp-down style til I can get a new set of proper cables
Ahh okay. I need to redo my cables. Just gonna wait until i relocate my battery to the driver side where the airbox is.
Old Feb 10, 2015 | 06:05 PM
  #48385  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by kgm
What parts are guys going OEM for the cooling system? Trying to save a few bucks where I can without having it blow up overheating.
Are you asking which parts should be OEM and which should be aftermarket?
If so, you can stick with OEM parts for everything. Cooling parts do wear out eventually, and they just need to be replaced when that time comes. There are two major changes that I recommend making:
1) Get rid of your heater control valve (if you have one). Copy the design from the last couple years of XJ production.
2) Use a ZJ fan clutch instead of an XJ clutch. It pushes more CFM of air. NAPA p/n 272310

Last edited by NewKindOfClown; Feb 10, 2015 at 06:07 PM.
Old Feb 10, 2015 | 06:57 PM
  #48386  
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From: ct
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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i recently had to replace my o2 sensor after the cat because the wires got ripped off. im looking to get better mpg from my jeep. i ordered a spectre air filter. which o2 sensor should i replace next to get the greatest increase?
Old Feb 10, 2015 | 06:58 PM
  #48387  
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From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by mcd58
i recently had to replace my o2 sensor after the cat because the wires got ripped off. im looking to get better mpg from my jeep. i ordered a spectre air filter. which o2 sensor should i replace next to get the greatest increase?
the upstream one
Old Feb 10, 2015 | 07:09 PM
  #48388  
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kgm
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From: Denver
Year: 99
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Are you asking which parts should be OEM and which should be aftermarket?
If so, you can stick with OEM parts for everything. Cooling parts do wear out eventually, and they just need to be replaced when that time comes. There are two major changes that I recommend making:
1) Get rid of your heater control valve (if you have one). Copy the design from the last couple years of XJ production.
2) Use a ZJ fan clutch instead of an XJ clutch. It pushes more CFM of air. NAPA p/n 272310
Yeah I was wondering if anything is something I should go MOPAR for, ie the way I did for my TPS sensor. Otherwise, is Napa sufficient? I'd rather not spend $400 on mopar parts for the cooling system, ha ha. I remember seeing the MOPAR t-stat being important.

Edit: And 4.0 uses a reverse or a standard rotation Water pump?
Old Feb 10, 2015 | 08:27 PM
  #48389  
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From: SATX
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by kgm
Yeah I was wondering if anything is something I should go MOPAR for, ie the way I did for my TPS sensor. Otherwise, is Napa sufficient? I'd rather not spend $400 on mopar parts for the cooling system, ha ha. I remember seeing the MOPAR t-stat being important. Edit: And 4.0 uses a reverse or a standard rotation Water pump?
I've run a stant tstat before with no problems but recently I was doing engine work and it was a good time to update some things pertaining to cooling system since I was also doing a flush. Went with the mopar stat based on recommendations I've read from the reliable posters I've seen on the forum. No issues so far.
Old Feb 10, 2015 | 09:54 PM
  #48390  
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by gigemjeep
I've run a stant tstat before with no problems but recently I was doing engine work and it was a good time to update some things pertaining to cooling system since I was also doing a flush. Went with the mopar stat based on recommendations I've read from the reliable posters I've seen on the forum. No issues so far.
52028186 stat from the dealer. I learned my lesson after purchasing 3 Stants, warranting them with crappy results, and then deciding on the factory stats with excellent results.



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