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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 10:35 PM
  #48391  
ehall's Avatar
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Year: 1991
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Stant Superstats are pretty reliable
Old Feb 10, 2015 | 10:38 PM
  #48392  
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Year: 2000
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
the upstream one
is there only one upstream one?
Old Feb 10, 2015 | 10:41 PM
  #48393  
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From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by mcd58
is there only one upstream one?
for a 2000 with california emissions. 2 upstream and 2 downstream. For federal emissions, 1 of each. .
Old Feb 10, 2015 | 10:50 PM
  #48394  
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From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
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Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
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Anyone got a link or pictures of a gutted prop valve?
Old Feb 10, 2015 | 11:12 PM
  #48395  
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Year: 1991
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
Anyone got a link or pictures of a gutted prop valve?
This is the closest diagram I have of ours. Once you take out the plug there's not much inside.

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Old Feb 11, 2015 | 06:55 AM
  #48396  
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Year: 1990
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
Anyone got a link or pictures of a gutted prop valve?

This help?

What are you doing?
Attached Thumbnails XJ Ask the Question Thread-prop-valve-guts.jpg  
Old Feb 11, 2015 | 08:40 AM
  #48397  
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Year: '99 and '91
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How do you remove the HVAC control panel on a 97+? More specifically the vaccum tubes connected to the middle control.

They've thrown me through a loop last time I looked at it. I need to replace the HVAC control panel the blower motor resistor fried and took the fan speed selector with it.
Old Feb 11, 2015 | 09:43 AM
  #48398  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by DieselD
How do you remove the HVAC control panel on a 97+? More specifically the vaccum tubes connected to the middle control.

They've thrown me through a loop last time I looked at it. I need to replace the HVAC control panel the blower motor resistor fried and took the fan speed selector with it.
Hey you're back! I remember you!

If I recall correctly there are small metal clips kind of like speed nuts that hold the silicone fitting onto the back of the switch. Once those are off you just pull. When you break the seal there will be a hiss.
Old Feb 11, 2015 | 10:21 AM
  #48399  
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From: Norwich, NY
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 242CI L6 FI
Default 2000 Cherokee Command Trac

I don't believe my rear driver side tire is spinning. With Command Trac, shouldn't both rear tires spin?

I've tried the old, "Floor it and try to watch". I was just wondering if there is another more definitive way to tell if it is working?
Old Feb 11, 2015 | 10:29 AM
  #48400  
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From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
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Originally Posted by NateXJ2000
I don't believe my rear driver side tire is spinning. With Command Trac, shouldn't both rear tires spin?

I've tried the old, "Floor it and try to watch". I was just wondering if there is another more definitive way to tell if it is working?
If traction is equal between rear tires, than they will both spin. Otherwise one rear and one front tire will spin. Both Command and Select-Track in 4-PartTime, open differentials.
Old Feb 11, 2015 | 11:44 AM
  #48401  
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Originally Posted by salad
Hey you're back! I remember you!

If I recall correctly there are small metal clips kind of like speed nuts that hold the silicone fitting onto the back of the switch. Once those are off you just pull. When you break the seal there will be a hiss.
Yea I tend to shy away from CF during the winter months, a.k.a. hibernation. The weather is breaking and so is my Jeep, so I'm back.

I know exactly what little clips you're talking about. I remember seeing them. I was running out of day light though. Should get it out this time around. I'll have a practice run at the junkyard.

Question though, should I go ahead and swap out the blower motor while I'm doing all this? I have another already that seems to be decent shape. I've heard the blower can cause issues when it starts to go. When I pulled my blower resistor it was corroded and falling apart and smelted in an area so I chalked it up to that taking the switch out of commission.
Old Feb 11, 2015 | 12:17 PM
  #48402  
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Originally Posted by NateXJ2000
I don't believe my rear driver side tire is spinning. With Command Trac, shouldn't both rear tires spin?
Nope, that is correct. 4 Wheel Drive with Command-Trac locks the front and rear drive shafts together, not the axles. With this system you can have one wheel front and rear spinning. Some XJs came from the factory with a limited slip rear end optional. What you're thinking of is a selectable locking differential, like what was sold on Wrangler Rubicons. No such option was available on XJs.

Originally Posted by NateXJ2000
I've tried the old, "Floor it and try to watch". I was just wondering if there is another more definitive way to tell if it is working?
Well you could get a helper!

Originally Posted by DieselD
Yea I tend to shy away from CF during the winter months, a.k.a. hibernation. The weather is breaking and so is my Jeep, so I'm back.

I know exactly what little clips you're talking about. I remember seeing them. I was running out of day light though. Should get it out this time around. I'll have a practice run at the junkyard.

Question though, should I go ahead and swap out the blower motor while I'm doing all this? I have another already that seems to be decent shape. I've heard the blower can cause issues when it starts to go. When I pulled my blower resistor it was corroded and falling apart and smelted in an area so I chalked it up to that taking the switch out of commission.
The usual failure mode is burning out of resistor packs in quick succession or blowing fuses. I wouldn't bother messing around with it in February without a good reason to do so.
Old Feb 11, 2015 | 04:03 PM
  #48403  
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Originally Posted by salad
The usual failure mode is burning out of resistor packs in quick succession or blowing fuses. I wouldn't bother messing around with it in February without a good reason to do so.
Well dammit. I swapped the control panels. LEDs and all, still only get fan on hi. I imagine there's a relay for this system somewhere I can find where. I checked the fuse (again) still good.

It looks like the wire got a little warm. I can see some discoloration of the platic on the connector for the fan speed elector but it doesn't look that bad.

Could the blower be bad and still work on hi? **** I need a multi meter. Its at my dads.

OK found out there's a relay for blower motor, and relay for hi/low switch, can't find location of either.

Last edited by DieselD; Feb 11, 2015 at 04:43 PM.
Old Feb 11, 2015 | 08:08 PM
  #48404  
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Originally Posted by DieselD
Well dammit. I swapped the control panels. LEDs and all, still only get fan on hi. I imagine there's a relay for this system somewhere I can find where. I checked the fuse (again) still good.

It looks like the wire got a little warm. I can see some discoloration of the platic on the connector for the fan speed elector but it doesn't look that bad.

Could the blower be bad and still work on hi? **** I need a multi meter. Its at my dads.

OK found out there's a relay for blower motor, and relay for hi/low switch, can't find location of either.
This is on the '99 again right? It's been a long day lol

Relay is part of the blower motor assembly and just supplies power. On or off. Issues with speeds are the resistor or the wiring or the switch. Note the resistor is part of the ground path

Old Feb 11, 2015 | 08:58 PM
  #48405  
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Originally Posted by salad
This is on the '99 again right? It's been a long day lol

Relay is part of the blower motor assembly and just supplies power. On or off. Issues with speeds are the resistor or the wiring or the switch. Note the resistor is part of the ground path

Those wiring diagrams give me a headache. Lol

I eliminated the relay, fuses, HVAC control (unless the JY one is shot too), blower motor.

Tomorrow when I have daylight I'm gonna check thru the wiring and the resistor again.

Replacing wiring sounds like a pain.



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