i have 99 cherokee, driver side upper door hinge is secure but movement at hinge location, can a DIY guy replace the pin or does entire hinge unit need to be replaced?

 

+1 XJ lighting circuits do very funny things when parts aren't grounded like they should be. For a good time lift the ground under the front passenger seat... dome light flashes with the turn signal.

Try checking all the engine bay gorunds first: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=245993828

They should be disassembled, cleaned mechanically (eg a wire brush), all the crud cleaned off, and put back together. Stuff like Gardner Bender OX-GARD or Ideal NOALOX promotes a good connection and prevents future corrosion.

Depends exactly on where you see the looseness. The hinges are welded to the body side and screwed to the doors with some Torx junk. If it's just the pin sloppy you may be able to find some kind of replacement, although running a bolt in there may be easier as the OE stuff is actually pressed in.

You can get an idea of what's involved by reading this doorless mod writeup: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/97...stment-146651/

 

Feeling a grinding/chunking sound in my left front wheel well (under my left foot) while making left turns. Not sure what it could be. Maybe something loose in my knuckle? any suggestions? One of my passengers said "you can really feel the car when you turn left man" lol

 

Time for some noggin pokin.

 

94 Jeep Cherokee Sport, 4.0 inline 6
I replaced the water pump in March 2014 with a Murray from O'Reilly's for $38. (I replaced the thermostat at the same time, Duralast). Here it's November 2014 and the blasted water pump is already shot. Last weekend I put in a new serpentine and tested the thermostat right alongside a new one and the thermostat works fine, so it's got to be the water pump. I'm leary of using the Murray warranty and putting in another one that won't last. Anyone have any recommendations manufacturer-wise? I was looking at a Duralast (I just need something I can buy local so I can get it done this weekend).

The Duralast also highly recommends replacing the fan clutch at the same time - which I did NOT do when I put in the Murray. Maybe that's why it failed. In any case, looking for anyone's recommendation on a good one and whether I really ought to replace the fan clutch at the same time.

Thanks! I love this forum!

 

Get a water pump from Napa

 

Short and fat part of this. Got a 99 jeep cherokee, with blown motor and trans. Putting my motor in from my 91 cherokee into the 99. OK, now the trick and help please, NSS. Does any one know how to wire the 91 to the 99 NSS.

 

Should I be able to turn the steering wheel completely even if the keys are out of the ignition and the vehicle is in park? I'm doing the pushbutton start up process and I was told to remove the lock plate but I don't see why I should now.

 

Sounds like your lock plate is already gone.

On a side note, what did you use to paint your Jeep? And would you use it again?

 

Wonderful! And I used rust oleum grey primer, then two coats of krylon sand color. And yes, best paint I've used. No chipping yet and I didn't use a hardener.

 

I thought it looked like Krylon Sand I was gonna use the same thing for my Comanche, but now I have a Wrangler and scored some quality army CARC paint for almost free.

That looks great, man

 

How are you painting? Just tape stuff off? I toasted my 2 passenger side doors and will need to replace & probably paint them. Might go for a full color change??

 

I am replacing the steering linkage and have found the 1999 and 2000 FSMs confusing on torque specifications.

In the text for installation the torque stated for the knuckle end is 35ft-lb. In the table at the end of the section it says 55 ft-lb for the tie rod end ball studs.

Also there is a discrepancy on the torque for the ball stud at the drag link. It is 55 ft-lb in the 2000 FSM and 65 ft-lb in the 1999 FSM

What is the correct torque specifications? My searching has not revealed a good answer.

Many of the posts just say crank it down, I like to use a torque wrench and want a number.

 

My steering is loose and the previous owner said I might have to change out the tie rod ends. Is there a way to check if they are bad????
Are they hard to replace

P.s. I'm a rookie

 

I don't know what he did, but I'm doing a frame-off respray so I can clean up rust in the process

If they're original, they're either due for replacement or will be soon