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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 06:37 AM
  #54376  
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Originally Posted by Joecam18
yeahhhh :/ called a couple chrysler dealerships near me. $98 new was the lowest of the two. ill fiddle around in the part out threads
I have a trans that I could part out but the clip on the end of cable have been broken off. I have another trans that I could part out but it's waiting for somebody to decide if he want it or not
Old Jun 2, 2016 | 06:51 AM
  #54377  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
I have a trans that I could part out but the clip on the end of cable have been broken off. I have another trans that I could part out but it's waiting for somebody to decide if he want it or not
if you are talking about me ill pass its too much of a hassle to switch everything to make it work
Old Jun 2, 2016 | 06:52 AM
  #54378  
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Originally Posted by TealTornadoXJ
if you are talking about me ill pass its too much of a hassle to switch everything to make it work
no. It's somebody else lol
Old Jun 2, 2016 | 07:53 AM
  #54379  
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What do we need here? The adapter housing from an AW4 to the transfer case on an XJ?
Old Jun 2, 2016 | 08:01 AM
  #54380  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
What do we need here? The adapter housing from an AW4 to the transfer case on an XJ?
I believe it is the TV cable for AW4. The exposed portion between sheath and throttle body is frayed and will not slide in/out of sheath.
Old Jun 2, 2016 | 08:07 AM
  #54381  
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
I believe it is the TV cable for AW4. The exposed portion between sheath and throttle body is frayed and will not slide in/out of sheath.
Okay. This ask the question thread is a pain in the *** to keep track of.
Old Jun 2, 2016 | 08:54 AM
  #54382  
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Originally Posted by TealTornadoXJ
if you are talking about me ill pass its too much of a hassle to switch everything to make it work
Originally Posted by XJwonders
no. It's somebody else lol
Same answer lol. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner
Old Jun 2, 2016 | 09:07 AM
  #54383  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Same answer lol. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner
it's not you. It's somebody else lol
Old Jun 2, 2016 | 09:12 AM
  #54384  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
it's not you. It's somebody else lol
man you just pass these trannies around don't you?
Old Jun 2, 2016 | 09:15 AM
  #54385  
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Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
man you just pass these trannies around don't you?
I can't help it. I enjoy having first dibs and watching others get sloppy seconds
Old Jun 2, 2016 | 06:03 PM
  #54386  
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lol... this is getting really entertaining
Old Jun 2, 2016 | 07:40 PM
  #54387  
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Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by rcguymike
Finally got around to testing my TPS. According to the '99 FSM it says:
With the ignition key in the ON position, check the TPS output voltage at the center terminal wire of the connector. Check this at idle (throttle plate closed) and at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). At idle, TPS out-put voltage should be greater than .26 volts but less than .95 volts. At wide open throttle, TPS output voltage must be less than 4.49 volts. The output voltage should increase gradually as the throttle plate is slowly opened from idle to WOT.
At 0 throttle I get .76 volts. It's smooth going up. I can pull out my crappy analog meter if I must. At WOT I only get 3.99V. It seems like unless I'm in park it's always fueling at least a little bit. It idles perfect in park and drops to 700 and doesn't move. Idling downhill I previously post a video of it fluctuating between 1k-1.2krpms which makes a snoring type sound. Is my TPS bad? Are auto zone lifetime warranty ones OK or should I get MOPAR? Any other thoughts?

Edit: also if I downshift to 3rd(around 48mph) the rpms go steady but the OBD2 reader doesn't peg to 99mpg like other vehicles seem to do. IIRC it drops a little.
No opinions/thoughts/comments/jeers?

Also all new injectors and o2 sensors.
Old Jun 2, 2016 | 11:05 PM
  #54388  
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Got a throttle valve cable coming to me from a part out thread. Gonna hand it over to a tranny shop and have them install it. fraying is getting worse. just glad i could find a replacement
Old Jun 3, 2016 | 02:15 PM
  #54389  
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I'm changing my motor but my jeep is a manual and all the motors I'm finding are motors out of automatic jeeps. Now I'm hearing the I have to change out the pilot bearing and that I may have to change the electrical. Has anyone done it?
Old Jun 3, 2016 | 03:05 PM
  #54390  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by rcguymike
Finally got around to testing my TPS. According to the '99 FSM it says:

At 0 throttle I get .76 volts. It's smooth going up. I can pull out my crappy analog meter if I must. At WOT I only get 3.99V. It seems like unless I'm in park it's always fueling at least a little bit. It idles perfect in park and drops to 700 and doesn't move. Idling downhill I previously post a video of it fluctuating between 1k-1.2krpms which makes a snoring type sound. Is my TPS bad? Are auto zone lifetime warranty ones OK or should I get MOPAR? Any other thoughts?

Edit: also if I downshift to 3rd(around 48mph) the rpms go steady but the OBD2 reader doesn't peg to 99mpg like other vehicles seem to do. IIRC it drops a little.
It sounds to me like that TPS is junk.

OBD-II works by establishing a min and max threshold for signal levels. (0V would indicate a closed circuit, 5V indicates a short.) If I remember correctly, at rest (full close), the TPS should read 17%. Anything above the PCM assumes the throttle is being opened and won't mess around with the IAC and will start adding some fuel.

Before writing the TPS off completely, take it off and test the connector going into it. Record the voltage on the +5V pin and measure resistance to the battery negative post from the Sensor Ground pin.

Originally Posted by Oscar_jx95
I'm changing my motor but my jeep is a manual and all the motors I'm finding are motors out of automatic jeeps. Now I'm hearing the I have to change out the pilot bearing and that I may have to change the electrical. Has anyone done it?
Need a lot more information - all XJ long blocks are more or less compatible.



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