I agree

 

I was thinking that, too

Likewise

 

Thanks to all, I am feeling encouraged. Maybe my trusty steed has not seen her last ride on the range.

I will have the radiator replaced and report back. Unfortunately as a warranty job, not a top priority. He can get to it Tuesday.

I guess I will be driving my 72 Monte Carlo and praying for nice weather for a few days. (Hate driving the Chevy in the rain)

This site is the best.

 

This is accurate. Thanks for noticing

 

I agree

 

I went real slow with my expensive digital meter and didn't see any jumps. I'll pullout my crappy analog one and see if it does it. But new turn of events I'm now getting a MAP sensor code and it now dies occasionally while idling, but seems to idle better in gear. Would both TPS and MAP go out near the same time? Getting down to 1.2 PSI idling not in gear and generally 4-6 psi idling in gear. Also it drops to 1.2 PSI sometimes when it does the jerking at cruising speeds. I think the CAN bus just isn't fast enough. My 2013 Jeep is light-years faster than this one at updating sensor readings.

Edit: 2 MAP codes actually P0107 and P1296

Edit 2: Yup, checked TPS with analog meter up and down a few times nice and smooth.

 

Are these the only two parts I need to rebuild both the front stock xj driveshaft and the zj front driveshaft I have in the rear? Obviously 6 u joints and 2 of the sockets
Spicer 211355X Socket Yoke Assembly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAPLVCA..._9o7FxbFWC0DXV

Spicer 5-1310X U-Joint Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009X1X91O..._Qq7FxbHRTM215

 

I will change out the lower control arm bushings. The jeep is on jack stands under the front axel. Is there anything for me to worry about when I take out the bolts holding the arm(s) in place? I will do one arm at a time. Can the front end separate/move a little with reference to the lower control arm location when the arm is removed? Any information is appreciated, thank you.

 

for added safety measure, also jack up and support the vehicle on the uniframe

 

Sooo would someone mind answering this one for me lol it got lost in the cracks
And the lift kit question is asumeing I have the Chrysler 8.25 differential

 

Yes indeed, lost in the cracks lol



Okay, cool.

Yes the BA10/5 is a time bomb. The AX-15 was the manual transmission behind 4.0L XJs from 1991 to 1999. Here are the two side-by-side. The Peugot junk is on the right. Note that the case is two halves and bolted in the middle:



In 1993 or 1994 the bell housing was changed so that the slave cylinder bolts up from the outside instead of being hidden away. Basically any AX-15 with an external slave will do the trick. There are a few other parts you'll need to buy new, as well. I am not certain what exactly needs changing to make the Renix flywheel compatible with the later transmission, or if there are any differences at all. There are quite a few threads on swapping transmissions, so I encourage you to search.

The D35 isn't very strong. The 29-spline Chrysler 8.25" axle, found in 1997 and newer XJs (some '96 models, too, but it's not predictable) is a significant upgrade. But, to be honest, unless you plan on beating the snot out of your rig with the differential locked, a D35 will hold onto light 32" tires like Duratracs. For that matter, a 27-spline Chrysler 8.25" will, too. Your XJ came geared with 3.07:1 axles. For the size tire you want, 3.55:1 is a good upgrade and REALLY EASY, because you can just get axles out of a 4.0L XJ that had an automatic transmission. My 3.55:1 D30 was free and my C8.25 was $90. Look around for partouts etc.

As for the lift advice, all I can say is be prepared to break or cut off every single fastener. Torch, penetrating oil, and angle grinder were essential to working on a rusty Heep like mine. Post in the Modified Tech section for more on lift stuff.

 

Awesome man thank you for the help I will update you guys as she comes together
Is the transfercase that came with AX-15 transmissions good enough?
Also I don't plan on doing hardcore extreme 4wheeling mostly joy rides through the mountain trails for camping, shooting ETC but I want to get lockers and am pretty impressed with the OX locker and I figured if I'm going to put $900 into just a locker upgrade I better make sure it will last is why I want to upgrade my rear differential
Any experience with lockers?

 

Well, what transfer case is it? lol... most commonly, it's a NP231, but it could have been swapped out or came with something else. NP231 and NP242 are probably the most common. Either of which would be fine for your application, but you won't really get any benefit out of the "4wd full-time" mode on the np242 if either one of your axles have an actual locker in it. LSD differentials is best for the NP242.

 

only Np231 came behind ax15's. Ox lockers are selectables so it ll work even with np242 as long as it's not engaged while in full time mode.

 

i went and did some light trails today. when in a bumpy terrain with 4LO engaged, i got a couple loud clunks or "bang" if I can call it that, coming from the front end when turning. I believe it is from the diff, but unsure if it's normal or not. I was not on pavement, but it wasn't slippery either. to me it's not normal but in 4hi full time and 2hi there is no sound to be heard (i have not tested 4hi part time, never use it)

normal? not normal? how to tell without opening the diff? there is no unusual sound from that area when driving "normally".