Just thinking in terms of solid materials ceramic is an insulator meaning it'll trap heat into the rotor, metallic substances will draw the heat away. Probably the reason ceramic pads can warp rotors under severe braking. I know heavy duty applications generally suggest semi-metallic.

Both of the ceramic pad sets(different manufacturers) I just put on said there was no bedding process necessary as they were treated at the factory...I still did some light stopping first to even out the pad to the rotor and then did a series of 40-0mph stops to heat them up good and then went for a 10 minute drive to cool them nice.

 

Just what I read about ceramics. Can't say it's true or not because I don't have the experience.

Do plan on getting all the hardware. Since I'm gonna be in there I'm just gonna go ham on everything. Appreciate the info and experiences.

 

I have a pulsing vibration at higher speeds, and the guy who regeared by axles said when he ran it on the lift it was making noise in the transfer case. I was wondering if anyone knew if a transfer case could cause a pulsing vibration that vibrates the whole jeep at highway speeds. Also what all should I do if I'm going into the transfer case? Chain, bearings, or what? Also I have an AA sye if that makes a difference. How would I know if the chain was loose? Sorry lots of questions just trying to get it figured out before I dive into it.

 

Check ALL of the drive shaft U joints and centering *****

 

Been having a slight heating problem with my 90 xj for a while, with very minimum coolant loss. When idling for a while it'll climb up above the 3rd tick on the sensor but goes down and stays at about 195* when driving.
Today out of boredom I decided to look for some thing to do, filled up my coolant as it was low and shortly there after noticed a small wet spot under my jeep which I hadn't seen before. Grabbed my flashlight/uv/laser pointer combo thing and found this.







Which appears to be fresh coolant. I have not run the jeep since I added the coolant and it was maybe 5 minutes after I added that I saw the puddle.
I can't see where this is coming from best I can tell its from the oil pan gasket, and my oil is fine just changed it after a scare from doing the steam cleaning and haven't noticed milkyness since.
Help me Cherokee forum your my only hope. (Little nerd humor)

 

It may be weeping from your water pump. I'd also replace your mechanical fan clutch while you're at it. Overheating before 15mph but not above that speed is an indicated of fan clutch failure

 

Both have been replaced within the last 3 years, fan clutch 3 years ago and water pump 2 or 3 years ago. I did test the fan clutch by spinning it by hand and at ambient temp it only spun about 1/4 turn when I let go.

 

And/or aux e-fan never coming on if it's really hot outside.

 

If an a/c clutch draws ~3.5Amps but never engages does it need new internals? or is it something else? Looks like clutch kits are ~$100 on ebay. Is there any way to verify that the compressor is still good before I replace just the clutch? Low side holds pressure don't have a high side gauge.

 

I've had 2 water pumps in the 3 years I've owned my jeep and there's no real way to test the fan clutch.

 

Well now the damn thing isn't doing it (I guess I should be glad really). E fan kicks on when a/c is on and once temp got above about 210*.

On an unrelated note:
I've got my headliner out right now for repair, and I noticed the large spaces between the roof and supports I was thinking of putting some of that gap filler foam stuff to maybe cut down on cabin temp and noise. Any thoughts on if this would be worth it?

 

I went to lowes and got some thin foam insulation and stuck it up there. Seemed to make a decent difference.

 

So, I have the '88 Cherokee with the Renix. Yesterday I went to start it, it fired right up and hit its idle at about 600 rpm, everything seemed normal. But, as soon as I touched the gas at all it would start missing and nearly die as if it were flooding, even backfired a couple times. If I let off the gas immediately it will regain a proper idle and run well at idle. If i persist and give it too much gas, it will die. If I allow it to idle until the engine is warmed up, the problem disappears and engine runs perfectly fine. Any help?

 

Which of my Tips have you completed?

 

Ive completed 1-6 and 11 and shes been running 100% better than when I bought her until this issue now. Want to say thank you while I have your attention, too. You've made this a fun project; Ive learned a ton from your website already.