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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Newb question here... What is the best technique to re-install a transmission properly? I pulled the AX-5 on my '93 2.5L the other day (first time I have ever pulled a tranny btw) and yesterday when I was trying to hook it all back up I was having trouble properly aligning all the bellhousing bolt holes. The input shaft seemed to be lined up/inserted, yet however I tried to wiggle or move the transmission it refused to align properly. Is there a "mechanic's trick" for this?
Be 100$ sure the torque converter is properly seated and as far as the rest you should be able to get it lined up using the old shimmy and push trick if everything's properly installed the tranny should slide in fairly easy
Be 100$ sure the torque converter is properly seated and as far as the rest you should be able to get it lined up using the old shimmy and push trick if everything's properly installed the tranny should slide in fairly easy
his trans doesn't have a torque convertor because it's a manual transmission
in the event that my leaf spring bracket bolt hole is indeed wallowed out, what should I do about it? For the outside it was suggested a washer or even a small metal plate with the right size hole welded on the side of the bracket, but what about the inside one, where there is the nut inside the little pocket? i know about cutting the bottom of the pocket to fit a wrench and get the nut that way if it spins free, but what if the hole is wallowed out? i have a feeling you can't really weld properly in that tight space?
the bolt is about a quarter inch higher than passenger side and there is a clear rusty mark where the bolt once was, showing it shifted up. would it work if only the outside hole has a plate welded to it and then by tightening the bolt so much it will prevent it from moving inside the pocket? hope it makes sense
not my jeep, but here is an example of what I'm talking about. in red being the bolt hole (imagine there is no leaf spring), and in orange is the mark the bolt left, showing it shifted.
I have a pulsing vibration in what feels like the passenger front corner of my jeep. It usually starts at higher speeds. It wasn't too bad for a good while, but it seems to have gotten worse since I got 4.56 gears today. Any ideas?
I have a ticking noise at idle that goes away when the engine gets hot and increases until around 1500 rpm. I am pretty sure its not a rod knock, could it be a lifter tick or the flex plate making noise?
I know it was said before somewhere on here but I forgot what the number was. I just got some 4.56 gears put in and I was wondering what a normal temp should be for front and rear diffs.
I know it was said before somewhere on here but I forgot what the number was. I just got some 4.56 gears put in and I was wondering what a normal temp should be for front and rear diffs.
Do you guys shoot it with your little laser thermometer? When is a good time to get a reading? Drive it for a bit or take it for a good blast? What should a 8.25 and D30 read?
Do you guys shoot it with your little laser thermometer? When is a good time to get a reading? Drive it for a bit or take it for a good blast? What should a 8.25 and D30 read?
I'm using an ir temp gun. After a normal drive is what I did and my readings were 165 Dana 30 and 150 Chrysler 8.25 but I'm not sure if that's high or not.