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Old Aug 5, 2016 | 09:17 PM
  #55576  
cruiser54's Avatar
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
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Originally Posted by nardey11
My friend has a 1999 tj and it did the same thing, he fixed it somehow I'll ask him.

EDIT: He just texted me this link, and said it was his transmission mount. He bought his from someone who really neglected it so the whole thing is rotted, he said it was a 2-3 hour fix.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/bu...ear-89310.html
Yup. Check all the mounts. Engine and trans.
Old Aug 5, 2016 | 09:19 PM
  #55577  
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Year: 2000
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Engine: 4.0L Straight 6
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Does it go away? Try shutting the engine off for 10 seconds and re-starting. What happens?
It only rattles after sitting for a while. If I shut it down and restart it there is no rattle.
Old Aug 5, 2016 | 09:21 PM
  #55578  
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
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Originally Posted by nardey11
It only rattles after sitting for a while. If I shut it down and restart it there is no rattle.
Lifters.

What oil and filter are you using?
Old Aug 5, 2016 | 09:24 PM
  #55579  
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Year: 2000
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Lifters.

What oil and filter are you using?
Valvoline high mileage 10w-30, should I go 5w-30 or jump on the t6 bandwagon?

Oh and a wix filter, my oil filter adapter is leaking and I stripped the t60 hole, I got a welder so I'm going to try and weld a nut on. I think it's starting dry because all the oil in the filterm is probably leaking out.

Last edited by nardey11; Aug 5, 2016 at 09:29 PM.
Old Aug 5, 2016 | 10:13 PM
  #55580  
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by nardey11
Valvoline high mileage 10w-30, should I go 5w-30 or jump on the t6 bandwagon?

Oh and a wix filter, my oil filter adapter is leaking and I stripped the t60 hole, I got a welder so I'm going to try and weld a nut on. I think it's starting dry because all the oil in the filterm is probably leaking out.
No worries. Just verify that if you shut it off and re-start the tick goes away.
Old Aug 5, 2016 | 10:41 PM
  #55581  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
No worries. Just verify that if you shut it off and re-start the tick goes away.
The oil pressure takes about 2 second before it climbs and that's when the rattle happens. The rattle only lasts about a half of a second. There is a slight tick/knick when the engine is warm but I am pretty sure it isn't coming from the engine. I will take some video tomorrow.
Old Aug 5, 2016 | 11:00 PM
  #55582  
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
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Originally Posted by Jacobus
Mine had the ball peen taken to it too... maybe literally because it had hail damage on the doors, panels, Lights and fenders. Or maybe it was rolled. Lots of bubbling on the roof. I've been sanding and doing the rage gold for about 3 weeks. Finally finished 2 days ago, and coated with C-cure Cerakote. Was it worth it? absolutely. I enjoy it alot more, its fun. Total cost bout 300 dollars, includes sand paper, Gallon of rage gold, harbor freight sander, HF Sprayer, Acetone, and Cerakote. If you buy the 21 gal HF compressor like mine, its another 150 with a good coupon. Now its time for me to earn my own dents.
That looks awesome I would like to do cerakote as well that stuff rocks.

Originally Posted by NewbJeep
That's awesome that you've also got another 1500 coming your way too. Going to do a build thread, I hope?
Of course a build thread is in the cards, can't do it without documenting some awesome stuff, the two I watch the most are Roninofako's and Jeepology's builds. Both are pretty close to what I ultimately want to end up with.
Old Aug 6, 2016 | 01:03 AM
  #55583  
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Originally Posted by jackace
BUZINGA!!!

So Colorado does allow operation with a salvage title. I never had plans of ever selling my XJ and I have been working on my build sheet to make a proper restoration job.

So my wife's Idea is to find another XJ that is either already built or another stock one that I can take my time rebuilding the way I want it built, I am leaning more toward the latter option, but would like to keep mine as a parts XJ, and the wife is having a hard time understanding why I want to take the lesser amount from the insurance company and have more a spare jeep for parts

The golf ball to racquetball sized hail beat all the bubbling on the hood broke the windshield and basically looked like my 4 year old got to play with a ball peen hammer.
Really? Over the want of a hood and windshield they totalled the jeep? What about the roof and the rest of the body? Have you thought about cancelling the claim and just buying the replacement parts from a JY (except for the windshield, of course) and repairing it yourself?

I mean, if you're not severely attached to it, then hey - let 'em total it and build a new one. But I'd hate to see a good running and driving Jeep go to waste over a golf-ball exterior renovation.
Old Aug 6, 2016 | 07:35 AM
  #55584  
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Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
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When a vehicle is totaled by an insurance company, they try to recoup some of the money by putting it up for bids to body shops and salvage companies. All you have to do is top the highest bidder and you can retain the vehicle. Then you can fix it or part it out. The only hard part is it has to be inspected BEFORE you can re-register it to prove that it's roadworthy. I've done this twice already. The first one was a 67 Camaro that was so bad it couldn't be fixed, but I made up parting it out for more than it was worth when I was driving it! The second one just needed a front clip and radiator.
Old Aug 6, 2016 | 08:49 AM
  #55585  
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Originally Posted by Basslicks
Really? Over the want of a hood and windshield they totalled the jeep? What about the roof and the rest of the body? Have you thought about cancelling the claim and just buying the replacement parts from a JY (except for the windshield, of course) and repairing it yourself?

I mean, if you're not severely attached to it, then hey - let 'em total it and build a new one. But I'd hate to see a good running and driving Jeep go to waste over a golf-ball exterior renovation.
Originally Posted by dave1123
When a vehicle is totaled by an insurance company, they try to recoup some of the money by putting it up for bids to body shops and salvage companies. All you have to do is top the highest bidder and you can retain the vehicle. Then you can fix it or part it out. The only hard part is it has to be inspected BEFORE you can re-register it to prove that it's roadworthy. I've done this twice already. The first one was a 67 Camaro that was so bad it couldn't be fixed, but I made up parting it out for more than it was worth when I was driving it! The second one just needed a front clip and radiator.
This is from the Colorado DMV:
A salvage vehicle is a vehicle damaged by collision, fire, flood, accident, trespass, or other occurrence, excluding hail damage, to the extent that the cost of repairing the vehicle to a roadworthy condition and for legal operation on the highways exceeds the vehicle’s retail fair market value immediately prior to such damage, as determined by the person who owns the vehicle at the time of such occurrence or by the insurer or other person acting on behalf of such owner. [See C.R.S. 42-6-102(17)(a)(I)]

Since it is hail damage salvage title does not actually apply. The insurance company buy back on it is only $887. I will be taking that option to keep it as I am very sentimental about by first XJ.

I will buy an additional XJ (that's in better condition) with the money from my other vehicle that was totaled. My plan is to build the one I buy into a moderate DD rig. And then for my Original XJ build it into a beast of an off road rig. I should probably start a thread to detail the adventure.
Old Aug 6, 2016 | 08:54 AM
  #55586  
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
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Originally Posted by jackace
This is from the Colorado DMV:
[I]A salvage vehicle is a vehicle damaged by collision, fire, flood, accident, trespass, or other occurrence, excluding hail damage,
Good research
Originally Posted by dave1123
When a vehicle is totaled by an insurance company, they try to recoup some of the money by putting it up for bids to body shops and salvage companies. All you have to do is top the highest bidder and you can retain the vehicle. Then you can fix it or part it out. The only hard part is it has to be inspected BEFORE you can re-register it to prove that it's roadworthy. I've done this twice already. The first one was a 67 Camaro that was so bad it couldn't be fixed, but I made up parting it out for more than it was worth when I was driving it! The second one just needed a front clip and radiator.
The buyback policy depends on your company. USAA contacts three junkyards, and your buyback is the cheapest price of those three
Old Aug 6, 2016 | 08:57 AM
  #55587  
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kgm
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
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Dodging a salvage title is great! Good to know too for my jeep, ha ha.
Old Aug 6, 2016 | 11:18 AM
  #55588  
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
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So, recently my high beams stooped working. Low beams work fine but when I switch over to high beams, all the lights turn off untill I switch back to low beams, but sometimes they work fine, then I hit a bumpy road and the stop again. By the way, i have H4 headlights and the upgraded harness. Any idea as to what's causing this? Thanks
Old Aug 6, 2016 | 11:40 AM
  #55589  
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Default Power window blues

2000 Cherokee Limited. Passenger window worked intermittently from both switches. Now, the passenger window will only go down using the passenger switch but won't come back up. The driver's side switch does not work the passenger window at all but the light on the passenger switch goes out when you try to use the driver's side switch.

Most everything I could find on the forum was either related to the child safety switch or bad motor. I don't know much but if it will power down, the motor works? If it will go down with the passenger switch then the child safety is not engaged?

Any suggestions?
Old Aug 6, 2016 | 11:49 AM
  #55590  
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From: ☼ Blackhole Sun
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^
check for broken wires in the door loom?



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