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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Ive completed 1-6 and 11 and shes been running 100% better than when I bought her until this issue now. Want to say thank you while I have your attention, too. You've made this a fun project; Ive learned a ton from your website already.
Great!! Have a voltmeter?
With it running, test the voltage at each end of the fuel pump ballast resistor.
Great!! Have a voltmeter? With it running, test the voltage at each end of the fuel pump ballast resistor.
Out of curiosity could that be the cause of a fuel gauge not working properly? Especially since I've done the instrument panel ground upgrade, as well as the various other ground upgrades/refreshing suggested by you.
I'm building a 88 comanche with a 350 and ax15 have it all together néw cluch external slave and ajustable throw out bearing cluch is really hard and doesn't seem to be engaging have no idea what to do from here pulled trans 3 times now once to put the ajustable throw out bearing then just to make sure cluch and all was centered I'm lost
Out of curiosity could that be the cause of a fuel gauge not working properly? Especially since I've done the instrument panel ground upgrade, as well as the various other ground upgrades/refreshing suggested by you.
Nope. Done the fuel pump ground upgrade? That COULD affect the gauge.
With it running, test the voltage at each end of the fuel pump ballast resistor.
Okay, its at just under 13 in and just under 9 out, but while under there I heard an electrical, sparking, sound from passenger side of engine right next to AC unit intermittently. Watched the front spark plug under the hoses and can see a spark jumping from the cable connector.
Okay, its at just under 13 in and just under 9 out, but while under there I heard an electrical, sparking, sound from passenger side of engine right next to AC unit intermittently. Watched the front spark plug under the hoses and can see a spark jumping from the cable connector.
Good job!! LOL.
Quite the diagnostician you are.
Plugs, wires, cap and rotor should be replaced every 30,000 miles.
Nope. Done the fuel pump ground upgrade? That COULD affect the gauge.
That one I have not done.
Chances are I just need to replace it, I used an orange as an improve Hotwire when my tail lights decided to go out one night. That orange wire turned out to be for the fuel pump, gauge hasn't quite worked since. No other problems though.
Actually they could have put in an AC delete pulley. But since you have the new compressor, here's what you'd basically need to do. Only you can decide whether you want to do it yourself or have a shop do the work. It's not rocket science, but you have to know a few things and have a few tools that are different than working on the other parts of your vehicle. (The major tools needed being an AC gauge set and a vacuum pump. You can actually make a pump out of an old room air conditioner or refrigerator compressor!) There are lots of instructional videos on youtube that can help with procedures.
When a compressor fails it typically sends metal shards into the system meaning you have to flush it out. Flushing kits that work with compressed air and flushing solvent are not expensive:
You'll also need a drier for the air from your shop compressor when using a kit like this. You don't want to be filling your AC system with moisture! The disposable desiccant type inline driers commonly used for painting will work. (The refrigerated or heated air drying systems used by pro shops cost big $$$$!)
Unfortunately the parallel-flow condensers used in R134a systems cannot be reliably flushed out and should be replaced. The drier/accumulator and expansion valve will also need to be replaced.
There's a lot of discussion as to whether evaporators should be flushed or replaced. The issue is that it can be difficult to get all the flushing compound out. I've successfully done it but followed up the flush with dry compressed air for a while to make sure all the solvent is gone. (Really you should do this with all the flushed out parts.)
You don't flush compressor, drier, or expansion valve.
You'll need to add the amount and viscosity of PAG oil specified for the system just before buttoning it up. (The new compressor may have come with assembly oil which would have to be dumped out and replaced.) There will be a specification for how much the compressor is supposed to hold, the rest can be put into the drier. Oil should be put in just prior to closing up the system and pulling vacuum because it is extremely prone to absorbing atmospheric moisture. This moisture does not come out when you vacuum the system and will form acids with the refrigerant that eat small holes in metal parts such as the evaporator. Likewise the drier should be exposed to air for the minimum time possible.
I like to use Nylog sealer on the seals and fittings, makes it much less likely that there will be a leak.
When you charge the system you may want to put some dye in for the purpose of tracing leaks. (Though if you're going to be doing your own AC work an electronic detector would be a good investment.)
NEVER put sealer into the system!! This stuff hardens on contact with the air and can really make a mess of things when the AC system is opened up for service later.
FSM maintenance guide failed to say wires cap and rotor!? Really? Every 30k? Maybe I do want to try to find coil packs and a compatible ECU...
Oh, don't overreact. Just replace them. Field experience trumps factory recommendations in the real world. Be sure you read the FSM correctly. IIRC, they recommended all but wires every 30K and wires at 60K......
Thanks everyone - going with the G2 Aluminum/black rear diff cover for my 8.25 and a lubelocker gasket.
Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
As a matter of personal preference, I disagree. If I have to open a diff even once, I install a Lube Locker. There's nothing wrong with the RTV method, but I personally hate doing it
Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
