Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
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XJ Ask the Question Thread
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,867
Likes: 16
From: Fauquier County, Virginia
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
What is the best dual diaphragm brake booster to get for a swap into a single booster XJ? I know the later ZJ and early WJ can be used as well as I think the 95-96 XJ one. But I know some of them have firewall clearance issues and sit too close to the proportioning valve. Thanks!
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
What is the best dual diaphragm brake booster to get for a swap into a single booster XJ? I know the later ZJ and early WJ can be used as well as I think the 95-96 XJ one. But I know some of them have firewall clearance issues and sit too close to the proportioning valve. Thanks!
Actually, the WJ booster is in some ways easier than the 95 to 96 XJ.
I've done both.
XJ, you don't have to mess with the firewall. No big deal anyway.
But, you have to move the washer reservoir. And, once the original booster comes out, the bracket inside the cab moves and makes it a bear to install the new booster.
WJ you have to bend or cut the firewall lip, but don't move the washer bottle.
As an added bonus, the mounting studs of the WJ booster are a bit smaller and it's easier to get in.
Another bonus with the WJ is that it has FLEXIBLE lines from the master cylinder that make putting things together MUCH easier.
And, WJ boosters are newer and easier to find…..
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,867
Likes: 16
From: Fauquier County, Virginia
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
WJ versus 95 to 96 XJ booster
Actually, the WJ booster is in some ways easier than the 95 to 96 XJ.
I've done both.
XJ, you don't have to mess with the firewall. No big deal anyway.
But, you have to move the washer reservoir. And, once the original booster comes out, the bracket inside the cab moves and makes it a bear to install the new booster.
WJ you have to bend or cut the firewall lip, but don't move the washer bottle.
As an added bonus, the mounting studs of the WJ booster are a bit smaller and it's easier to get in.
Another bonus with the WJ is that it has FLEXIBLE lines from the master cylinder that make putting things together MUCH easier.
And, WJ boosters are newer and easier to find…..
On the other hand, you're right on the WJ stuff being newer. With that, the pictures always seem like the WJ unit is also slightly shorter, plus easier install is a plus. Is there a pedal height difference with the two? I wonder if the WJ model needs the firewall lip clearance due to the lack of the spacer.
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Hmm... a wealth of information! This has me curious indeed. I may have my sight on a full 95 setup with booster/MC shipped for $40 with a 30 day warranty. I've been considering replacing the washer bottle, and could probably shoehorn a universal "right size" in but only if it will take the stock pump/indicator. Stock replacement bottle would be easier...
On the other hand, you're right on the WJ stuff being newer. With that, the pictures always seem like the WJ unit is also slightly shorter, plus easier install is a plus. Is there a pedal height difference with the two? I wonder if the WJ model needs the firewall lip clearance due to the lack of the spacer.
On the other hand, you're right on the WJ stuff being newer. With that, the pictures always seem like the WJ unit is also slightly shorter, plus easier install is a plus. Is there a pedal height difference with the two? I wonder if the WJ model needs the firewall lip clearance due to the lack of the spacer.
No, I don't lick fish.
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,169
Likes: 26
From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Sounds like a classic case of loose TC shift linkage.
If you push forward on the shift handle and the rumble stops it is the loose linkage problem.
Chrysler sold (past tense) a kit to fix this but no longer does. Crown Automotive sells an aftermarket kit. I bought one but didn't use the sheet metal screws included in the kit, I reused the original machine screws.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331483790973
If you push forward on the shift handle and the rumble stops it is the loose linkage problem.
Chrysler sold (past tense) a kit to fix this but no longer does. Crown Automotive sells an aftermarket kit. I bought one but didn't use the sheet metal screws included in the kit, I reused the original machine screws.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331483790973
or he can eliminate the stock complex linkage and go with the boostwerks engineering simplified linkage.
http://www.boostwerksengineering.com...ans-_p_25.html
http://www.boostwerksengineering.com...ans-_p_25.html
WJ versus 95 to 96 XJ booster
Actually, the WJ booster is in some ways easier than the 95 to 96 XJ.
I've done both.
XJ, you don't have to mess with the firewall. No big deal anyway.
But, you have to move the washer reservoir. And, once the original booster comes out, the bracket inside the cab moves and makes it a bear to install the new booster.
WJ you have to bend or cut the firewall lip, but don't move the washer bottle.
As an added bonus, the mounting studs of the WJ booster are a bit smaller and it's easier to get in.
Another bonus with the WJ is that it has FLEXIBLE lines from the master cylinder that make putting things together MUCH easier.
And, WJ boosters are newer and easier to find…..
Actually, the WJ booster is in some ways easier than the 95 to 96 XJ.
I've done both.
XJ, you don't have to mess with the firewall. No big deal anyway.
But, you have to move the washer reservoir. And, once the original booster comes out, the bracket inside the cab moves and makes it a bear to install the new booster.
WJ you have to bend or cut the firewall lip, but don't move the washer bottle.
As an added bonus, the mounting studs of the WJ booster are a bit smaller and it's easier to get in.
Another bonus with the WJ is that it has FLEXIBLE lines from the master cylinder that make putting things together MUCH easier.
And, WJ boosters are newer and easier to find…..
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 1,226
Likes: 11
From: Laurium, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Did my injector and fuel rail swap and it ran beautifully for the rest of the week. Today it seems like it doesn't know how to idle(hasn't stalled yet), or what's going on at low throttle inputs. Once I accelerate or am at a cruising speed above 45 it seems fine. Getting the same system too lean code again:
P0171 - Chrysler
Type Powertrain - Fuel and Air Metering - ISO/SAE Controlled
Description
Fuel System Lean Conditions
Location Bank 1 Sensor 1
Cause
ECT sensor over 170°F, engine running in closed loop, BTS ambient air input over 20°F, altitude less than 8000 ft., then the PCM detected an injector command that reduced pulse-width by 25% long term memory along with a 12% short term compensation command (a lean A/F condition).
Maybe the O2 sensors are messed up? But I'd expect to get O2 sensor specific codes.
Also what is ECT? Electronic Coolant Temperature?
P0171 - Chrysler
Type Powertrain - Fuel and Air Metering - ISO/SAE Controlled
Description
Fuel System Lean Conditions
Location Bank 1 Sensor 1
Cause
ECT sensor over 170°F, engine running in closed loop, BTS ambient air input over 20°F, altitude less than 8000 ft., then the PCM detected an injector command that reduced pulse-width by 25% long term memory along with a 12% short term compensation command (a lean A/F condition).
Maybe the O2 sensors are messed up? But I'd expect to get O2 sensor specific codes.
Also what is ECT? Electronic Coolant Temperature?
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,127
Likes: 0
From: Capac, Mi
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Herp Derp Jerp
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Verify the temp reported by the ECT sensor is good by pointing an IR temp gun at the thermosat housing. If you don't have/can't borrow one (I got mine for $20, it's invaluable!) you could also measure its resistance and compare to the chart on this page: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...iagnostics.htm
O2 sensors are a regular maintenance item, FYI. They get filthy and lazy over the years. O2 codes typically are related to hard faults, like a heater circuit failure or a short.
O2 sensors are a regular maintenance item, FYI. They get filthy and lazy over the years. O2 codes typically are related to hard faults, like a heater circuit failure or a short.
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Blairstown, Iowa
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
ZJ donor vehicle
New to this forum. Sorry if I didn't choose the right thread.
Broad question. Have a mostly stock XJ that I plan to do ~4" lift on. Looking to improve the reliability and functionality of the vehicle overall as an on-road/off-road jeep.
Friend has a 93 ZJ with I6 that he is scrapping. I can basically have whatever I want off it for cheap. Anything worth salvaging? I'm looking at wheels potentially, maybe alternator, seats if they are in better shape than mine...
Considered the D44 axles, but I know they are aluminum and would take a bit of work. Worth it?
Are any under the hood components worth salvaging?
Pitman arm?
All ideas are welcome
Broad question. Have a mostly stock XJ that I plan to do ~4" lift on. Looking to improve the reliability and functionality of the vehicle overall as an on-road/off-road jeep.
Friend has a 93 ZJ with I6 that he is scrapping. I can basically have whatever I want off it for cheap. Anything worth salvaging? I'm looking at wheels potentially, maybe alternator, seats if they are in better shape than mine...
Considered the D44 axles, but I know they are aluminum and would take a bit of work. Worth it?
Are any under the hood components worth salvaging?
Pitman arm?
All ideas are welcome
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,127
Likes: 0
From: Capac, Mi
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
New to this forum. Sorry if I didn't choose the right thread.
Broad question. Have a mostly stock XJ that I plan to do ~4" lift on. Looking to improve the reliability and functionality of the vehicle overall as an on-road/off-road jeep.
Friend has a 93 ZJ with I6 that he is scrapping. I can basically have whatever I want off it for cheap. Anything worth salvaging? I'm looking at wheels potentially, maybe alternator, seats if they are in better shape than mine...
Considered the D44 axles, but I know they are aluminum and would take a bit of work. Worth it?
Are any under the hood components worth salvaging?
Pitman arm?
All ideas are welcome
Broad question. Have a mostly stock XJ that I plan to do ~4" lift on. Looking to improve the reliability and functionality of the vehicle overall as an on-road/off-road jeep.
Friend has a 93 ZJ with I6 that he is scrapping. I can basically have whatever I want off it for cheap. Anything worth salvaging? I'm looking at wheels potentially, maybe alternator, seats if they are in better shape than mine...
Considered the D44 axles, but I know they are aluminum and would take a bit of work. Worth it?
Are any under the hood components worth salvaging?
Pitman arm?
All ideas are welcome
Transmission(93 is the only year with the AW4 in it)
Wheels & Tires
Engine
With it being the I6 if it doesn't have the factory towing package it wouldn't have the D44a it would have the D35.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 1,226
Likes: 11
From: Laurium, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Verify the temp reported by the ECT sensor is good by pointing an IR temp gun at the thermosat housing. If you don't have/can't borrow one (I got mine for $20, it's invaluable!) you could also measure its resistance and compare to the chart on this page: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...iagnostics.htm
O2 sensors are a regular maintenance item, FYI. They get filthy and lazy over the years. O2 codes typically are related to hard faults, like a heater circuit failure or a short.
O2 sensors are a regular maintenance item, FYI. They get filthy and lazy over the years. O2 codes typically are related to hard faults, like a heater circuit failure or a short.