On a uniframe vehicle like this, you can only lose so much metal before it's compromised. Full rear pan replacements aren't common in XJs, but the floor pans always have holes. They're also cheaper and easier to stock.

Anyway, have you tried calling Classic 2 Current? I don't know if they have them, but I've had good experiences with the company.

ZMJeeps has some oddball stuff, and sometimes you can call them to find pieces that aren't listed. Good reputation there, but no personal experience.

 

what about this. It says it's in stock. Also, it says the seller is classic 2 current like clown was talking about so check with them too

 

Not likely. Bad rings (and the coinciding poor compression) are going to allow blow-by on the cylinders giving you a beautiful cloud of pretty blue smoke.

What symptoms are occurring?

 

the engine was misfiring since day one. (Bought it that way @231k miles). I assume it was something easy like ignition or fuel injection. (The code was always P0301 cylinder #1 misfire).

So after doing ignition tune up and changing the injectors it's still misfiring. I moved on to steam cleaning, in hope of cleaning the valves of carbon deposits.

Then I finally was able to access my storage and got my compression gauge. Cylinders #2-6 have same pressure reading of 135 psi but the cylinder #1 had the reading of 105 psi. I poured a shot worth of ATF in the cylinder and it went up to 135.

I m trying to unstick the piston rings by pouring ATF in the cylinder when the engine is warm and leaving overnight. Probably gonna do that a couple of times and see what happens.

I'm not looking forward to swapping engines or replacing the rings. Lol.

 

any ideas?

 

Edit: Nevermind, I failed reading comprehension.

 

of course.

 

I posted once before but haven't been able to resolve this problem. As you get to the high end of each gear my 88 inline 6 manual Cherokee with 230K begins to stutter badly, losing power causing the "milkshake" feeling of a new stick driver. At the same time there is burping/backfire sounds coming from the exhaust. This normally happens when the engine is under load. After working my way through some of Cruiser54's Renix tips and doing other general tune up stuff It's gotten a bit better, but the problem is DEF still there. Though it happens at the top of all gears it is worst on the highway. After-all from 5th there is no where else to go!

Things I have done in the last couple months:
1. Ground refresh, also upgraded the engine to firewall ground from the braided cable to a number 4
2. C101 connector refresh
3. Connector/relay receptacle refreshing
4. New ICM coil, refreshed connectors
5. Sensor ground upgrade
6. New Distributor, new cap, TDC,
7. New Plugs and wires
8. New fuel filter
9. New O2 sensor
10. New CPS (due to an unrelated stalling/startup problem that was resolved)

Tomorrow I'm gonna do clean the throttle body and do somethings around there but my feeling is this probably won't resolve the issue. Any ideas?!

 

Thanks for the suggestion!

 

Indexed distributor? Hows the vacuum line to the MAP?

Don't forget to test, and adjut if necessary, the TPS while you're in there.

 

Thanks. I was leaning towards aluminum so that is probably what I will order.

 

Is the renix 4.0 block literally and the physically the exact same as a 1998 block? Any minor differences?

 

The vacuum line seems good although there is a vacuum connector halfway along the line so I'm guessing it broke at some point. When I do the throttle body stuff tomorrow I'm going to try to do the MAP throttle body upgrade from Cruiser54's page too, just in case. Distributor was indexed to the best of my and my neighbor the mechanic's ability. The marks were barely visible do to corrosion.

I heard that a stutter/buck when you're on the gas in the forward gears could be the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator so that might be my next project? Also, is there an easy way to test the injectors? I would like to avoid spending the cash on them if possible as I'm broke!

 

Anybody know if the tranny oil coolers at autozone are any good?

 

Nope

Year......Casting #
1987-90......53005535 (8933002665)
1991-95......53008405
1996-98......53020569
1999-04......53010449

The ones I know of (short block, not literally the block)

- Knock sensor (can be ignored)
- OFA, replace the whole thing for new orientation and SAE threads
- '96+ have extra ribbing for stiffness and a main bearing girdle

Yuck. Yeah I'd just replace that thing.

Sure. You'll need to borrow or rent a fuel pressure gauge for that part. As for injectors, what kind of test do you want to run? Without lab equipment all you can do really is check their impedance with a multimeter (around 10 ohms is normal, I think) and try to start the thing with the rail and injectors out of the manifold and watch them spray gas everywhere lol.

If you want an upgrade on the cheap, drop Programbo here on the forum a line. He sells refurbished injectors for your year.