thank you.

Another question. I know lockers would render the full time mode on NP242 useless, but I was wondering about limited slips. Would it still work with full time mode?

 

XJ Cherokee and ZJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange.

2000+ TJ Wrangler and WJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange.

XJ/ZJ blocks and 2000+ TJ/WJ blocks do not interchange without significant modifications. (1991 to 1995 YJ and 1997-1999 4.0L TJ Wrangler blocks will interchange in XJ/ZJ and visa-versa).

TJ/WJ 4.0L Engine blocks underwent clean sheet design changes effective in the 1999 WJ Grand and 2000 TJ Wrangler. These blocks are not interchangeable with XJ/ZJ engine blocks. The reason is motor mount bolt holes and belt driven accessory mounting bolt holes are in different locations, or not present at all, TJ/WJ vs. XJ/ZJ.


XJ: "Regular" (not Grand) Cherokees 84-01
ZJ: Grand Cherokee 93-98 (Gen1)
WJ: Grand Cherokee 99-04 (Gen2)
YJ: Wrangler 87-95 (Gen1)
TJ: Wrangler 97-06 (Gen2)

 

Great post, cruiser. Thanks

 

Save it.

 

I would have to defer to someone who knows Wonders. Sorry...

 

Changing TPS on my 99 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0, 6 cylinder using T20 torx bit. The first screw came out fairly easy but I could tell the screw head was soft. I put the bit in the second one and gently tried turning it with barely any pressure. Stripped inside the head so easily. Put first screw back in and it stripped at 1/4 turn of the ratchet. It is such a tight spot to get into. First, how do I get that one out with no room for any tool other than a small ratchet? Second, what is the length, diameter and thread count of the screws? I don't get why the screws are so soft. I can gouge the head with my fingernail. Please help. Thanks.

 

Wow. I miss a couple days on the forum and fall 3 pages behind! I should slack off of work some and divert the time to the garage.

I stopped by a Jeep dealership this afternoon. The guy pulled up the exact diagrams I've found already. We did search for an older year XJ and came up with a different part number- 52100 137AE. Googling thus far has turned up the same diagram, but I've only begun searching. He wasn't interested in ordering it unless it was gonna be bought. He suggested I get back to him with a VIN to see if that turns up anything more accurate.

Really, I'm not even sure I need to replace the line at all. When I took it off the intake manifold, the line was wet all around where that clamp was. I thought maybe it was fuel running down from where I had disconnected it from the fuel rail, but I dried it off and it seemed to get wet again in seconds. The clamp was kinda rusty, so I thought maybe it corroded the line and made a pinhole. I cleaned off all the rust stains fairly easily and the tubing looks fine. I figured since the fittings were a bit rusty on the outside and the O-rings inside the fittings were aged, I should consider replacing the line since I already had it off if it wasn't awfully expensive, regardless if it actually didn't have a pinhole leak.

 

Do it! Work sucks.

You need part # 52100349AB (#1 in the lower left of the diagram). That is the fuel line running from the firewall connecting point to the fuel rail.

If the clips (#2 in the diagram) are rusty, you will need 2 of those.

 

lockers and limited slip diffs work with full-time fine

automatic lunchbox lockers that respond to sudden changes in torque will not work very well, since torque can shift between the front and rear axles suddenly in some cases

 

Generally people swap motors, but keep the original electronics and accessories (ignition, fuel injectors, sensors, power steering, AC, etc). 4.0 is essentially the same for 91-99 across all of them, if that is what you are doing. 00-01 on the XJ kept the same block style but went to a new head that makes it difficult to interchange with old accessories (exhaust differences, ignition differences). On the WJ and TJ, they went to a new block in 00 that uses a completely different layout, you cannot bolt your existing accessories onto it.

 

I'm off of work this weekend and I'm dedicating it to getting her up and running! I hope to have a good update in my project thread.

That's the part number I originally was leaning towards, but the diagrams all steered me away. I found other threads while searching that part number, and it was the correct part for them. So I'm gonna assume the diagrams are just sort of generic. After reading through the other threads, they had the exact same issues: the line looked perfectly fine, but had a pinhole leak right where that clamp was and it started right after they moved the line. I have a bunch of vinyl-coated insulated clamps and will use one of them so this doesn't happen again.

Thank you for your help!

 

You're quite welcome.

Try not to pay much attention to the diagram. It shows it in a way that does not accurately reflect what you will get if/when you purchase the part # I supplied.

Let us know how it goes.

 

No idea.

 

I'm a single lady and have been getting a lot of help from friends but they are all out of ideas. Have brought the vehicle, 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 - 6. to two different shops but they didnt know.Found two friends that at least care.
first guy (not friend)changed the cam sensor and replaced hoses and then it stopped cutting off which was good. He charged 180 dollars. but then I could not go faster than 40 with all kinds of codes being outputed. I've had codes P0300, P0353, P0455, P0442. Multiple misfires on Cyl. 1 & 6. Second guy changed the coil pack and spark plugs and there was no change. 3rd guy replaced ECM, no change. If I pull over and shut it off, something clears and it runs OK for a day or so. The co. whrer I got the ECM, sent another one just to make sure. And that didn't fix the problem.

 

I would check the fuel pressure. A pump can do all of that when it is starting to fail.

Could also have gotten some defective parts, sometimes the cheap store brands are bad out of the box