I'm looking to upgrade my headlights and I am stuck in between the truck lite 55003 headlights and the J.W. Speaker 8900 headlights. I have looked for reviews and what I got out of it is that neither seem to be good in snowy weather. I live on long island and we sometimes do get hard winters/snow storms. Any one else with similar weather conditions to long island have either of these headlights? If so, how do you like them? Thanks!

 

Replaced the one in my passenger door and it fixed it. That's where the relays are for locks

 

I've had TruckLites for a few years. Most of the time they're fine. There have been three occasions during that time when we've had very heavy, wet snow that rendered them nearly useless. But two of those times were declared States of Emergency and I really shouldn't have been out.

If they sold heated headlights for the XJ/MJ/YJ, I would buy a set and resell my current lights. But they don't, and I have no intention of replacing my TLs with anything else

 

Thanks for the info! Guess I will pull out the passengers switch and have a look inside.

 

Looks like truck lites are the way to go then considering they are cheaper as well. Thanks for the info, appreciate it.

 

If the switch panel repairs fail, try new door lock actuators.

 

I just deal with it. Really doesn't happen enough for me to worry about l. It's low on the priority list.

 

I have a really bad clicking on the front drivers side and some pretty bad death wobble between 50-60mph. can they be related? I think the clicking is either a u-joint or the crappy duralast hub I put on last year. Any ideas?

 

best way to know if it's the joint or the wheel bearing is to jack up the front on the side you want to check, wiggle the u joint and shake your wheel with a hand on each side.

clicking sounds more like a u-joint though. the bearing would make a humming sound and then with time the vibration starts getting stronger. as far as death wobble go, if the joint is completely thrashed it's possible, but if there's only a slight play at worst, i'd check the track bar mount at the axle and maybe control arm bushings.

 

Rugged Ridge 16595.13 Black Boulder Aluminum Differential Cover for Dana 30
Yay or nay? Anyone ran an aluminum diff cover? Trying to avoid $100+ units but I get the old saying "you get what you pay for".

TIA!

 

I would go with iron for the same price. I tried to put the URL in here, but for some reason that doesn't work with Morris 4x4.

Do a Google search for Teraflex Dana 30 diff cover at Morris 4x4. $89.29 plus free shipping.

https://www.googleadservices.com/pag...ZZiDv0Q9A4IggE

 

I have a solid rear cover and poison spyder front and they're both cast iron and under $100

 

How's your steering joints, man? I had a similar clicking sound accompanied by death wobble and it went away when I replaced the steering.

 

is there such a thing as torquing the shackle end of the leaf spring too much? i have a squeaky noise in the rear and noticed it comes from the leaf eye bolted to the shackle. the bushing seems to be "squished" together for a lack of a better word.

i used factory specs (80 or 90 ft/pound if i remember correctly) but wondering if i should unbolt it and try less torque, maybe with loctite?

 

Yes, there is, and if it binds it can affect your ride and articulation/flex. The proper torque is 80ft.lbs, but would be considerably less than that if the bolt is greased or anti-seize is used. Some say you should use 1/2 the torque if the fastener is greased.

I personally just "snug" them up, because the factory bolts have thread locker on them that will keep them from loosening anyway. Mine are nowhere near the torque spec, but I check them when I'm under there and they have never backed out.