That's what my FSM calls for. Does seem high though if it pegs at 80 psi.

 

I bought my '00 awhile back kinda cheap. Running but not really drivable. When researching fixing what I needed to fix came across the quirks such as random misfires, heat soak issues, and 0331 cracked heads. Got her drivable and all seemed well as far as those issues go. When I got around to replacing the plugs I told myself whatever was in there she was getting new of. Turned out to be cheapo Champions. RC12ECC. Which crossed to 438. I wonder if you should give those a try. Another thing that occurred to me was the temp sensor. The one in the thermostat housing. Not really sure if this would apply to a '00 though. Had a buddy with a '96 4.0. Running like crap. He did a complete tune up and put in a new fuel filter, '96 has external ones (wish ours did), and it still ran like crap. Drove him nuts for awhile till he figured out it was the temp sensor. Maybe?

 

I had the same issues before I swapped the plugs with NGK, it changed nothing. If the Jeep was actually misfiring then I would go and change them again but it's not actually misfiring.....that's the whole issue. The machine runs like it's brand new. None of the new parts have changed anything. Could it be the MAP sensor? I drove her like I stole her all the way to work this a.m. and didn't even get a flashing CEL, I got one block from work and sure enough the CEL came back on. Here's what I pulled from Torque:

Current Fault Log
------------------
P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

Pending Fault Log
------------------
P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0305: Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
P0306: Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected


No hesitation, no stumbling, no rough idle, no cutting out, smooth as glass the whole way. It's driving me insane! LOL

 

s
o I don't have to go back and research, what year is this?

 

Thought I'd give an update Haven't got to check to see if the battery is charging but he hadn't put the fuse for the door chime in, He remembered. I got in it. The gauges went back to the normal broken spots. I'll find out later if the alternator is charging. But so far seems the issues got fixed.

Now thanks to you guys I learned the oil pressure gauge doesn't work right, how would I go about fixing that? I have no idea what the guy did to get my gauge to work. Previously my 87 had all idiot lights, grabbed a newer gauge cluster from the junkyard with gauges. (Still has speedo cable if it matters). That's all the information I have, the wiring or how it was hooked up I have no idea how the mechanic did it

 

It's a 2000

 

Very interesting...I have noticed the temp gauge go to zero a couple of times, perhaps it is the temp sensor.

 

What gear oil should I use?
Need to change the gear oil after my 500 mile break-in on new gears in about 100 miles.
Motive 4.88 gears, D30 front (open), Ford 8.8 Rear (rebuilt LSD)

Thinking that I should go with Delo 75w90 synthetic for the front, and Delo 85w140 dino for the rear + 4oz of Motorcraft Friction modifier (on the right of the picture,). Castrol, and Valvoline Durablend syn-blend or High Performance dino both look good too, but Delo is rated for 500k mile service intervals by Eaton and Rockwell (according to the interwebs). I will be towing long distances this summer. Gear installer recommends dino oil, but only because of cost - will the Delo synthetic be fine for the front?



EDIT:
Valvoline Durablend semi-synthetic is $5/qt
Valvoline High Performance dino is $7
Castrol dino is $5
Delo is $6.49 for 85w140 and $6 for 75w90 synthetic

 

Airbag light is stuck on. Is the clock spring something that should be replaced immediately?

 

If it is a broken clockspring, your airbag won't deploy in a crash

 

Hi guys, I'm new here, so if this is the wrong place for this, I'm sorry. My friend has an 89 Cherokee that has just started to give some problems, so I thought I would try to get some help on here for him. I have searched everywhere for an answer, but can't seem to find it ( if the answer is out there on the forums somewhere, I appologize ). I have worked on many cars, but not 4x4.

The other day, he broke the universal joint on his rear driveshaft, and had to drive home with the front wheels only. He replaced the universal joint, but then shortly after, heard weird noises from the front. I inspected the front end, and noticed the universal joint on the axle shaft was destroyed. Long story short, I had to replace the complete assembly with one I got from the junk yard ( surprisingly in good condition). After assembled, he test drove it while I walked next to it, and yet another ticking noise appeared, this time from the front drive line. It would spin a couple of times, stop for a second, click, and spin again. He parked it, and I inspected again.

I grabbed the front drive line, and wiggled it. There was very little to no play in the universal joint. I then twisted it, and after 1 3/4 turns it would feel as though it was binding, but if I turned it a little harder, it continues to spin, before getting caught up again. I took the cover off, and there were no broke/worn gears, and when I twisted the drive line, the gears would move normally. To me, I think there is sag in the transfer case chain, and it is getting bound up on the gears. I haven't opened it up yet, but plan to do so.

Here is where I am confused. While I was spinning the drive line by hand, the Cherokee was not lifted off the ground, so obviously the tires were not moving, however, when I lift it, and spin the wheels, the drive line also spins. Shouldn't the tires move when I spin the drive line? The axle and transfer case ( as far as we know ) are stock. The transfer case is the np242, and the axle I believe is the Dana 30, but there is no vacuum disconnect, as I have seen on others after searching for hours online. Are all 89 Cherokees supposed to come with the vacuum disconnect?

Any help, or suggestions are much appreciated.

 

XJs with the NP242 did not come with vacuum disconnect axles. Are you sure the ujoints in the front driveshaft are okay?

 

I think so. They were a little dirty, but I cleaned them off, and tried to wiggle and twist it, and it didn't seem like it was bad. I'll change it out anyway since two have gone bad already, the rest might be going as well. Hopefully that is the problem. Thanks for the quick reply.

 

I recently installed some new front speakers on my 93 XJ afterwards I noticed my tail lights weren't working.I went AZ and replaced them there in the parking lot and my #19 fuse started smoking.I pulled the fuse and replaced it and thought everything was fine until it I had to turn on my headlights due to darkness duh.Low and behold I had no dash lights luckily I had a plug in light for my lighter socket and could make it home.What could be the problem?Where do I start to check?

 

Synthetic is always better for axles, unless you have to change it often due to contamination like fording water. Lasts longer and has better fuel economy, hands down.