There's a good chance they put a single-wire "oil pressure switch" on it instead of the two-wire "oil pressure sending unit" that you need

 

Ah you replaced the IAC. The PCM needs to be basically rebooted in order to relearn that.

 

OVER HEATING,in that hot Florida weather
Changed higher volume upper hose neck. Radiator about a year ago. Fan Clutch.
Head gasket and Valve Job. Temp sending unit
Rubber spacers at rear of hood to help heat escape.
Regular High Mileage Oil and filter changes.
Just changed anti-freeze 50/50 blend. and thermostat
Radiator Cap.
When the temp gauge gets to the first hash mark after 210 degrees I start to worry.
what more can I do?

 

How about some vehicle info. Could be the water pump impeller is worn/rusted away.

 

That, and how about verifying the temp with an IR gun at the thermostat housing?

who says the dash gauge is accurate?

 

I've got a 1991 jeep Cherokee Laredo. It's bone stock and I'm doing an engine swap. The thrust bearings went out, I was having over heating issues and the engine was just on its last leg. Before I started the engine swap I was having a lot of electrical problems. FYI I have the 4.0 with an auto trans.

1st: while driving down the freeway at a constant speed or sitting at a stop light the engine would cut out for no reason. I was able to throw it In Neutral and start it back up no prob.

2nd: right before I started the swap the engine seemed to be sucking a lot of gas. The mileage was horrible, worse than it had ever been. There were no fuel leaks and no gas in the oil.

3rd and last: the power locks allow me to unlock the jeep, however, they intermittently let me lock the doors. I can press the lock button in the door and can hear the motors try to move all the locks but it's like they just aren't strong enough. I generally have better luck when the door is wide open, almost as if there is a short.

Any ideas? I'm new to this forum. Thanks!

And incase you're wondering the engine I got was off of a wrecked jeep Cherokee with 130,000 miles on it. I had the head checked and redone at a machine shop. The cylinders are rust free and still have the cylinder honing marks. All seels on the new engine have been replaced.

 

Jcdunc197, how many miles were on the old engine? And I don't think there's just one electrical problem causing all three of these issues. No idea on all three though, sorry. Though I'm no expert.

 

I bought these sway bar links:
I now see that it says "for 3 inch to 5 inch lift only"

I have a 2" lift

Will I be OK with these or will they raise the sway bar too high? Thanks!

 

about 220k-230k miles

 

First timer here, let me know if this is in the wrong spot. I have read everything I can find on the intermittent guage cluster issues.. I have a 1999 Cherokee Sport, 5 speed 4x4. Yesterday, noticed my speedo and tach fell to zero, but all other gauges worked. No bus messages, no airbag light. tried tapping it, beating it, with no luck. Tried the self test (key off, trip button in, key on (not run). ALL lights and needles work with full ranges. This however caused my other gauges to fail to zero (or no reading), however odometer is on (just frozen). I get lights, signals, brights, jsut no gauge data. I can't isolate intermittent operation to some funky combination of other electrical system usage. i.e., wipers, blinkers, locks, windows. (all those seem to work, at least most of the time). Have cleaned the plugs in the back of the cluster (mine are black, not green, suspect the TSB may have already been completed, though i didn't see splices in the harness), checked that both plugs have good grounds with a meter, twisted the cluster pins for better contact, and checked every forum applicable fuse with no luck. I don't think the cluster is the issue, as it self tests just fine. Is there anything I may be missing? Im hesitant to start cutting wires until i have nothing left to try.

-Andy

 

About 185K miles. When I did the head work and gasket replaced about a year ago, I put a new water pump in at the time. I learned many years ago anytime you do head work always put in a water new pump. The radiator actually blew, at that time, which it had been replaced about three years earlier. So I first replaced it, prior to actually driving it to the shop that changed.
When the head went out to the shop, they found it was cracked and could not be repaired. So a used replacement went in, but the shop did some welding to it, then did the valve job.
About six months ago it overheated during a 300 mile ride. So on the road I replaced the thermostat and radiator cap put some new antifreeze, and continued the trip.
During the moderated cooler weather it ran fine. Then about two weeks ago it overheated during some local rush hour traffic. I immediately pulled off the road let it cool down put some water in (that I always keep extra two gallons in the car)
and drove directly to Advance purchased a new thermostat and gasket, purchased new antifreeze at Wall Mart (Brand Name prices are cheaper) flushed the system and replaced those items.

Now I'm considering changing the radiator to a three core aluminum one.
I need some feed back.
I see you can get a package with two or three cooling fans. But I'm not certain I want to by pass the fan clutch and stock electric fan set-up and shroud.

 

Need some more info about your Jeep man. What year XJ is it and what motor do you have? This helps us determine if you have a open or closed cooling system. The factory cooling system is quite adequate in keeping the motor at operating temps, so having to upgrade THAT MUCH to maintain temps at traffic conditions is a little odd. Typically, you'd only need to upgrade to an HD rad, water pump, and fan setup if you're doing extreme wheeling at slows speeds.

Another question - is it overheating at the temp gauge or are you actually getting boil over? The temp sending gauge senders are commonly innacurate and you can't go by them to verify temps. Use an IR temp gun pointed at the thermostat housing for an accurate reading. 210*F is normal operating temps for a Jeep 4.0

 

A few months ago after making a trip back home from Northern California to Tucson, Arizona my XJs crankshaft position sensor went out. I took it to a shop, and they replaced it. Upon picking it up, it was chugging and stuttering as if it was about to run out of gas... but there was a full tank. After 3-4 days the chugging stopped and ran like it did prior to the CPS issue.

Here we are a few month from then, and it's doing it again. It feels as if it's happening when I'm in first gear (my XJ is an automatic) but once I press down more on the gas I'll get a tiny backfire- but not all the time. When it hits second gear and higher no chugging and runs as normal (as normal as it has been running)

I was an idiot when it happened the first time and jumped on the highway. When I got on my exit ramp and slowed down for the light I had noticed the chugging/sputtering was no longer happening... how stupid would it be to try this again?

Also... both times it's smelt of camping fuel.

Any suggestions or ideas on where to look/check before getting it looked at? If so, links or pictures would be helpful. Also here is a YouTube link from the video I shot when I got back to my neighborhood.


Info about my XJ
-'88
-Automatic
- ~198k miles

 

4.0L engine? Most shops don't understand how that generation of Jeep works. Possible they screwed something up but there are a lot of 'known problems'. Try running through the tips here: http://cruiser54.com/

 

Mine had some similar symptoms at one point, ended up finding some frayed wiring to the MAP sensor where the wires were rubbing on the block. It took months to figure it out(I actually gave up and brought it to the dealer). Something worth checking.