Yes, it's all the same stuff. 2WD XJs merely have a slightly different transmission, are missing a transfer case, front drive shaft, and the front axle is dead. The rest is identical.

Good to go

 

Awesome! I thought this was the case! Better safe than sorry before ordering something online.

You don't know me, but I feel like I know you due to the amount of threads and answers I've read of yours.

Thank you very kindly for spreading your knowledge

Most Sincerely,
Jon

 

Very humbling. I am glad to help

 

my rear hatch is offset about 3/16" to the right. the worst of it are imperfections in the body lines, it opens and closes fine. i'm simply wondering if there's an easy way i could adjust the hatch, or it requires a lot of work? (on the older body style if that matters)

before someone says it, i'm aware the unibody is probably the cause of this issue. i rear ended another car a few years back and noticed those gaps on the hatch a couple months ago, so i assumed it's related.

 

From an auto body standpoint, the only real shot you have is loosening the hinges and trying to adjust accordingly. May take a little bit of force but you can get a little movement out of it.

As you said, its most likely related damage to the collision. Check for any slight buckles in the roof rails, roof panel itself, quarter panels (especially at the corners of the glass) etc.

Unibodies are very good at transferring energy to adjacent panels when involved in a collision unfortunately.

 

thanks i'll give it a try and see if it changes anything.

and about the quarter panel and other damage, thankfully it's limited to the hatch, i checked everything else

 

Ok, just joined, hope I get this right.
I have a 1993 Jeep grand cherokee. Was running fine, drove to work, then came out later, started right up. But when I put in reverse, it died and if I put in drive it also dies. I then put in reverse without using the brake and it rolled but as soon as I hit the break it died again. I think my Torque converter might be stuck. Is there some way to find out if I must replace it, or if that it might just be a sensor. I have the 2.8l v6 and the tranny is an automatic

 

Shelly Robinson: it is wildly unlikely that a 1993 cherokee or grand cherokee has a 2.8L engine unless it was swapped in. Would be wise to verify what you have there and if you have a GRAND cherokee, you may get better results in the grand cherokee forum.

That said, going with the converter idea, if it was locked up/stuck, the engine would die as soon as you put tranny in gear. The torque converter gets locked up with a 12v signal. On many vehicles of that vintage the lockup was turned off with a switch on the brake pedal. The easy suggestion is a short (or whatever) at or near that switch being created with pedal application effectively locking the tc with brake application.

geez that was longer than intended.
Good luck.

 

I have replaced my calipers on my keep several times since I have had it. For some reason my calipers continue to lock up after 6 months to a year of replacement. Mostly my fronts are the problem. I have bought calipers from napa advanced auto and autozone. Advanced usually go out the fastest in about 6 months. Any ideas what is causing them to seize up. Now my keep sits quite a bit but they did this when it was my daily driver as well.

 

Hey all I have a '99 XJ with a little over 250k on the odometer. I have been steady replacing pieces and parts that have all started to wear out together. Today I changed out the driver side door check and after putting everything back together and reconnecting the battery I started the Jeep and noticed that the odometer lights up but no other gauges came on. I checked and both the hazard and turn signals lit up. O problem. Also checked radio and rear wiper etc all working fine. I let the Jeep idle for about 7 minutes because the other day I had changed the from PCV valve BC it was blowing oil everywhere and I wanted to see if the idle went back to normal (which it did!). Anyway, get back in to turn it off and the gauges had all popped back up and were reading fine.

So, I guess my question is did I maybe knock a wire lose going in and out of the door panel. I had also recently replaced the front door speakers and gone into the door boot and located a severed wire that was causing sound issues on the driver side. Is it possible that age and abuse just caught up and the pin connections in the back of the cluster might be corroded or loose? I know I can pop the cluster out in a matter of minutes but don't want to start taking things apart unnecessarily. Thanks in advance for any ideas.

 

If your soft brake lines are original, replace them. I had a similar problem in my Camaro, and it was actually caused by deteriorated brake house lining.

Might not be your issue, but it won't hurt to have new hoses either way

 

i have a 92xj with the familiar broken/ sloping drivers seat
I've benn told I can swap the driver and passenger seat
Is this true?
Will a set of electric leather seats from a 94 limited fit?
Thanks

 

Looking to the gurus for help. My stock battery box is FUBAR and two of three studs were rusted to oblivion and snapped off. I bought a replacement from Dirtbound and it looks awesome. What's my best course of action for the studs? Is there a welded nut I can access and bust loose? Drill it out? Thanks!

 

the part of the center console right under my ash tray vibrates on take off and when coming to a stop. i know rattles are common in a jeep, but i'm just wondering if there's a trick to fix this

it's on the older body style btw

 

Are all the screws there and tight?

The one behind the ashtray?