That's the receiver for keyless entry

 

Well, I'll give you the story now (please bare with)... of course this morning the weather was crap (snow), and I'm drivin down the road, radio cuts off completely for a few seconds, comes back on, and then the windshield wipers stopped working. Wouldn't turn on in any setting. Drove like Ace Ventura on the highway for 2 miles till I found an exit (that was fun with the snow). Get out, pop the hood, can't see **** (that damn snow again, plus it's 6am), Get back in, shut the door, wipers come on for a sec. Open and shut the door again, wipers come on and stay on, but now on the intermediate setting (or whatever its called), it runs non stop. If I turn them off, they stop dead in their tracks and don't return home.

Also, right blinker only flashes on the dash sometimes (always works outside), radio volume lowers at times, and my oil pressure on the dash is weird (hopefully related to all this). Not to mention... the whole thing with the compressor cycling OFTEN when the AC or Defrost is on, but only at stops.

WOW!!! Sorry! Had to get that off my chest.

 

I think that's the name. Water/dirt/mud got in it so the valve couldn't cycle and got stuck. Looks like a small emissions leak to the computer.

 

Cool, thanks. It is from the same year.
Yea, I checked/do all that :/ I think the gears are just shot.

 

Its for your keyless entry. I gutted mine and turned it into a dome light since my keyless entry is running off of a Viper alarm.

Drilled a couple 1" holes in it. Recessed some bright LED lights, mounted a switch, and now I have a functional/bright map light. Pics are on the first page of my build thread if you'd like to see.

 

Hmmm.... time for some noggin' pokin', man. Sounds like a loose connection more than a ground issue. Just gonna have to get under there and start tracing wires. It's not gonna be fun, but definitely necessary (https://youtu.be/DBbZrv6cWTk?t=4m1s) to fix your problem. I suspect the issue is at the fuse panel though because the problem is at more than one "area".... wipers and the radio don't exactly share the same ground point or point on the wiring harness.

 

Yeah, I started a little today. Checked the grounds at the fender, firewall and dipstick. All look fine, but the one at the dipstick has some crud on it. I have a set of Wonders cables, just need some decent weather to get it done.

I'll give the fuse panel a look and see if I can't find anything.

Appreciate the info. Let the noggin' pokin' commence!

 

Has OEM / Moper Crank position sensor inventory gotten any better? I can't find them where I look, but find some napa brands, etc

Pulled a silent code for my CPS.

edit: May have found one:
https://www.amazon.com/Mopar-5602786...eep%3Acherokee

I've got a 99 auto. Does this look right? I don't trust amazon's test fit.

 

is there an aftermarket part # for the big holes in the floor pans, not the multiple 1" ones, the ~4" on either side right in the foot-well area?

i received my pans and as I thought, it didn't include any, so worst case scenario I'll weld it up with a circular piece of sheet metal, but if there is an actual plug for this it might be useful if I plan on wanting to be able to drain my floors one day, not have a permanently plugged hole.

 

I have a 94 XJ Sport that won't shift gears after the transfer case was replaced. I pulled the vehicle in my garage Sat under it's own power. While trying to get the vehicle speed sensor in the side of the transmission and found a couple of wires broken. Fixed the wires and hooked everything back up and got high idol (2100-2500) and when put into reverse, the speedometer jumps up to 25mph. Shift it to Drive and you can hear the transmission go through the gears and speedometer will read 55mph. Also, the vehicle is on jack stands and no wheels are moving. Step on the gas and the rpms just race up. Disconnected the wires I repaired and the same thing happens. Any thoughts or advice? I'm at a loss.

 

You could plug them and install a smaller drain in the patch. A 1" hole saw would make quick work of it

 

so obvious i didn't think of this thanks. and if i get rubber plugs is it better to install the plug from the inside or outside? i'm thinking from the inside, but the lip would make a pretty good seal if pushed from the outside, no?

those kind:

 

I know a lot of people tend to ditch the rear sway bar, as have I, but I have been noticing a lot of extra well sway when straightening out after a turn. I'm sure some of this has to do with original suspension being shot. With plans of lifting 3" would putting it back help at all after an all new complete suspension is put in?
And in the mean time should I put it in?

 

I would leave it out personally. Mine popped out off-road flexing one day and tossed it. Couldn't tell a difference. The lift will most likely have stiffer springs than stock which will reduce sway so it'll do even less with a lift. Plus without extending the links somehow it'll just pop out.

 

That's what I figured since I have never seen rear sway bar disconnects or extensions. Thank you.