Anyone have experience with zone 3 inch leaf packs sagging?

 

When I replaced mine, I looked up the OEM part number and searched it in the part# search section on Rock Auto

I believe they had a couple on hand for my '92... you may have the same or similar luck for your '99. Sometimes, dealers will list old stock on ebay as well.

Nah, just leave it off man. Does hardly anything when the Jeep is at stock height anyway except limit travel. I would imagine when the Jeep is lifted and the COG is elevated, it will have even less "anti-sway" effect.

If you're noticing excessive sway, make sure all your front swaybar connections are good and tight and the bushings are in good shape. I've heard of some using a ZJ swaybar as it's a little thicker, but I don't know what kind of modification is involved in making it work.

 

Hi salad:
Thank you for the response. So you agree that the problem is most likely intermittent fuel pump failure? The wiring harness is OK.
If this would be a computer problem then the pump would just stop running, right? The fact that the pump is still operating with much reduced pressure would point to problem with the pump itself.
Since you have experience with pump replacement, let me aske you a few questions.
1. The choices for replacement pump is numerous and prices vary widely. Any suggestion as to full replacement or partial, i.e. replace just the pump and clean the filter. Any recommended brand?
2. What size should I make the cut out in the trunk, in order to make the replacement easy? Before I cut I will place a piece of sheet metal over the tank to avoid damaging the tank. After replacement of pump, must the cut out be completely sealed? Thank you in advance for your on anyone else's response.

 

Knew I emailed a link to myself about this. Took forever to find it.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/fue...2/#post3231679

Scroll down a bit. Thought it was a nice write up. Everybody says that Bosch is the way to go with the fuel pump. If and when I ever do this I will go with a Bosch one. I also am going to make a slight adjustment to the instructions at that link. Been meaning to get a section of cargo bay floor out of a Jeep in the boneyard. Bigger then the hatch I would cut. This way I figure with a little weatherstripping I can just secure it and not have to build up around it. Also I am going to drop the tank the hard way and then cut the hole. Yes I can say it. I would be scared to cut with the tank there. In a perfect world after the replacement the hatch would never get used again. But..........

 

Okay, I'm having a charging issue, and having read all the threads on the topic here and elsewhere, I've formed a theory, and want to see what you guys think. I recently bought a 96 XJ 4.0 with 145k, and am slowly working through fixing all the stuff the last guy did. The oil was very old and thin. The thermostat was missing, the aux fan was hardwired to run all the time, and the coolant appeared to be mostly water (which some people in FL do for max cooling), and actually was brown and mostly rust... there was 2 inches of mud in the expansion tank. The battery tray was missing, so I was getting a CEL from the missing battery temp sensor.

Now before I fixed any of that, at least according to the gauge, I was charging fine. Now I've replaced the tray and sensor (and battery), flushed and filled the coolant and put in a 50/50 mix, and done oil/filter with Rotella 15w40 and a quart of Lucasoil. And now I'm having trouble with charging. It jumps straight to 14 when started cold, and reads about 12.5 on the multimeter at the battery with engine off, 13.5 with engine on. But when I turn on the AC (and the aux fan kicks in), the gauge drops, not all the way to red but pretty close. When I switch the AC off, the gauge still never gets back up. On the multimeter after it gets to that state, I'm reading about 12.3 with the engine running.

I know from the threads it could all be a slightly defective battery, so I may try a swap. But here's my theory: I think there was little resistance on the belt when the water pump was pumping straight water and the oil pump was pumping thin oil. With the heavier oil and Lucas (which also is making the oil pressure read fairly high) and the 50/50 coolant going through the pumps, the pumps are dragging down the belt and the alternator is not getting enough torque to handle the AC and fan. I think I have the original 90 amp alt.

So I think my solution is a new alt, probably one of the higher-amp fit replacements (but NOT the ZJ alt conversion... I'm not equipped for grinding the bracket).

Good theory?

 

Uhhhhmmmmm..... interesting theory, sure. Good theory? Nah not really plausible.

Here's why. The factory charging system was designed to run those accessories with 50/50 antifreeze mix and 30 weight oil right off the line. Yeah, the Rotella is slightly heavier weight, but not enough to cause enough parasitic drag to slow down the alternator charging system and lower the volts.

That drastic of a drop in voltage is a result of a short somewhere. My guess would be the wiring to the e-fan since, from what you're describing, everything is copacetic until it kicks on. Bad battery is less-likely a possibility, alternator might be weak though as a result of previous mis-maintenance from the P.O. and age, however. Get the battery fully charged back up, take it to your autoparts store and have them test the battery and alternator (they can do it while it's still in the car). If the alternator is weak, their equipment should be able to tell.

I'd be willing to be though, that there is a short somewhere on the e-fan circuit due to the PO's brilliant wiring skills.

 

Thanks!

 

No prob

 

doing a wheel bearing job for my friend. He has a 1992 Cherokee with the 4.0. It's 2WD. I was taking this bolt off of the front caliper and it stripped pretty bad. I took the one off the bottom to take a picture of it. What is this bolt called??? Slider bolt? I can't find one anywhere. Can't even find one at pick n pull. I've checked 94-98 cherokees and even grand cherokees.

 

doing a wheel bearing job for my friend. He has a 1992 Cherokee with the 4.0. It's 2WD. I was taking this bolt off of the front caliper and it stripped pretty bad. It's a 12-point 13-mm. I took the one off the bottom to take a picture of it. What is this bolt called??? Slider bolt? I can't find one anywhere. Can't even find one at pick n pull. I've checked 94-98 cherokees and even grand cherokees.

 

Can someone PLEASE tell me what gets these ^$&#&&#&*#*$&*#*#* studs out?!?!?! Two of them snapped, one broke my drill bit off in it. What the literal hell are these things made of??

These are the mounting studs for the battery tray. I am two seconds from burning this POS Jeep to the ground.

 

Caliper guide pin.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/j...uide+pin,10281

And they only used them on 2wd models W/O abs. The 2wd models WITH ABS use hub-bearings and the same brake guide pins as the 4wd models.

Easiest way to find them is to check for a 2wd model with spindle hubs like your friend's.

Why not just grind them flush and then drill new holes and put new bolts through? Just a thought.... 'tis what I'd do in that situation.

 

I would cut them off and weld new studs on, or I would retread them with a dye. If they are too far gone then grind them off drill them out and put new bolts through. Grinder definitely the way to go.

 

Didn't wanna butcher the purty new tray with pre-drilled holes from Dirtbound. Needless to say, I got two of three. I can live with that. For further reference, you gotta grind the buttons off the bottom side, then wrestle with them using channel locks and a big ol' flathead. Damn the person who thought this was smart!