Belts probably squealing because it's not tight enough.

Is the jeep getting up to normal operating temp (210)? Did you flush and then burp the system with the heater on high?

 

I want to do a full overhaul of my rear brakes, I have an 8.25 can I use a drum kit for the Dana 35 or is it different.

 

They are different.

 

Yeah it's getting up to normal running temp. By burping it do you mean turn the jeep on, remove the radiator cap, and crank the heat?

 

Depends. What master cylinder does he have? Does he have the plastic one with a twist-on cap or does he have the cast aluminum one with the clamp-on cap? The old style (aluminum) has a separate chamber for front and rear brakes. So bleeding one or the other is possible. However, if it's the plastic res, it doesn't have separate chambers for both... so if the fluid level gets down too low, you can wind up with air in the rest of the system.

If you keep enough fluid in the resevoir, you might be able to get away with it... but why chance it? Not to mention, if it's been sitting that long, moisture could have collected in the lines and fluid and cause them to not work efficiently anyway. Best to just do a full drain, fill, and bleed of the whole system. It's not hard.

I paid 5 bucks for this at harbor freight http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...kit-37201.html and while primitive, it makes one-person-bleeding much much easier.

You're on an open system. As long as there's the proper amount of fluid in your reservoir tank and your radiator cap is holding proper pressure, your radiator should take care of evacuating the air on its own.

 

So can I eliminate it? I take it that it simply houses the two wires that connect to the back of the alternator?

 

Right! The temps may act funny until all the air gets out (if there's any). Happened to me after my last flush. Took like 3 days until it was good. Thought maybe that would affect the heat output.

 

It certainly could, depending on where the air bubbles are sitting. You may not be getting much (if any) hot coolant to your heater core.

I just went through this a few weeks ago when I replaced the rear heater lines on a minivan. Squeezing the upper radiator hose to disturb the flow may help evacuate the air faster

 

hi everyone so here I go first thing first when I start my 97 Cherokee it starts right up no problem then when I get to work and turn it off and I let it sit for a while then get back in and try to start it acts like it wants to start then it all most dies then revs up to start up or wont start then when I try to start again it starts like nothings wrong then when I put it in reverse the lights don't turn on but this only happens when its cold

 

Not sure about the starting because mine didn't do that, but remove and clean your NSS (neutral safety switch). When winter would roll around and it would get super cold, my reverse lights wouldn't work. At one point my check engine light finally came on and I didn't have overdrive. Cleaned the NSS and hasn't happened since. Be careful though, it's made of plastic and it's kind of a ***** to get off. New ones are expensive.

 

Lol... Man, it's sad. I should be able to answer this because I just did this. But I can't remember. I'll try to remember to crawl under the jeep in the morning and look. I think I eliminated it though when I upgrade the cables.

 

Man I greatly appreciate your help! When I was looking to tackle the alternator cable, I saw that damn thing and thought "what in the blazing hell??". I almost thought it was some kind of ground... for an alternator!!!

 

I don't think they are. The only thing the computer asks at the auto parts store I work at is if they are 9" or 10". Most likely 9". Way to tell is if the drums are finned they are 10". Also how the brake lines go into the wheel cylinders. If they go straight in, left and right are the same, then it is 9". If they go in at an angle, left and right are different, then they are 10".

 

Couple things I have learned about my '00. The belt has to be just so. In my '96 I used to own I could use a cheap belt, tighten to where it looked OK, and just go. The '00 was a little more finicky when adjusting the belt. You get it where it does not make any noise but then when you turn on your AC it wants to squeak a little so you have to adjust it more. When I did an anti-freeze swap I would just get it as close as I could. Then drive the Jeep for a few days and add anti-freeze as air burped out. One time after doing this I got a CEL. Misfire code. My theory was that an air pocket hit the temp sensor, the one in the thermostat housing, and the Jeep had a little hissy fit. Cleared it, kept on top of the anti-freeze level as mentioned above and was good. Since then I have bought the Lisle Funnel. Thing works great and as far as air in the system goes got it right on the money in my driveway the first time.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-S...iglink20919-20

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-S.../dp/B00A6AS6LY

 

The backing plates are definitely not the same. The center bore is larger on the plates for the 8.25. As far as the rest of the parts, I don't know. I didn't know they made 10" drums for the 8.25