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Old Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
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Old Apr 5, 2015 | 09:21 AM
  #49261  
cruiser54's Avatar
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Originally Posted by jdjonesdr
When I overhauled my Cherokee, I replaced just about everything under the hood, including all of the sensors under the hood, along with the coil, module, wires.. etc, etc.

The only thing I didn't change was the distributor. Never saw the need because it runs pretty well.

I finally decided to slap in a new one. It's here on my desk ready to go.

Just out of curiosity, if I insert it one tooth off on the gear that turns it, will it still run?

Or is that enough of a difference in timing to keep it from starting?
Do Tips 12 and 13 and you'll be golden.
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 10:19 AM
  #49262  
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Originally Posted by bhennessee1
75 bucks plus shipping to 30707.
Lmfao
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 01:03 PM
  #49263  
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Year: 2008
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Default powers wndows don't work

I have a 95 Cherokee w/ 216k, the other day the power windows lost complete power. No noise or anything. Just stopped working. Wondering if the battery ground could be the problem since I have not cleaned it in about 6 months.
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 01:47 PM
  #49264  
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From: South Mills, NC
Year: 1998
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I'm going to be ordering front and rear gears for my jeep and can't decide if I want 4.10 gears or 4.56 gears. 1998 XJ AW4 35s and 3.55 gears
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 01:59 PM
  #49265  
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Year: 1998
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Default Sway Bar Bushings

Just got a pair of MOOG sway bar bushings since my OEM ones are toast.

For the life of me I can't find information on whether or not they should be lubed prior to install. Do they need lube, and if so, what kind?

Thanks!
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 02:40 PM
  #49266  
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From: Hampton Roads
Year: 1997
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Originally Posted by ccooper1234
I'm going to be ordering front and rear gears for my jeep and can't decide if I want 4.10 gears or 4.56 gears. 1998 XJ AW4 35s and 3.55 gears

I want to see this AW4. 4.10 is good for dd, 4.56 for power offroad and bad mpg. Since you're going with 35s I figure your offroading more so 4.56 look like the better option.
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 03:22 PM
  #49267  
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Originally Posted by gunmetal_nightrider

I want to see this AW4. 4.10 is good for dd, 4.56 for power offroad and bad mpg. Since you're going with 35s I figure your offroading more so 4.56 look like the better option.
I dd this jeep so I need gears that will still get decent mpg
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 04:10 PM
  #49268  
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From: Minnesota
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Originally Posted by ccooper1234

I dd this jeep so I need gears that will still get decent mpg
This should help buddy

XJ Ask the Question Thread-screenshot_2015-04-05-16-09-05.png
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 05:13 PM
  #49269  
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Originally Posted by FruitSnacks
This should help buddy

Attachment 269318
That is one helpful chart.
Reps on recharge . . . uh never mind
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 05:32 PM
  #49270  
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Originally Posted by lj1955
I have a 95 Cherokee w/ 216k, the other day the power windows lost complete power. No noise or anything. Just stopped working. Wondering if the battery ground could be the problem since I have not cleaned it in about 6 months.
That or your fuses for your window switches themselves. You tried to use any of the othwr switches?
Old Apr 6, 2015 | 07:14 AM
  #49271  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Do Tips 12 and 13 and you'll be golden.
I've read 12 and 13 a gazillion times, to the point I could do it in my sleep.

What I don't understand is, why modify the distributor base if it was specifically designed to be held in one place? It goes from a non adjustable distributor to an adjustable one. If it's now adjustable, why not use a timing light?

Is that done to compensate for wear to the engine components after 100K miles or so?
Old Apr 6, 2015 | 08:13 AM
  #49272  
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Originally Posted by jdjonesdr
I've read 12 and 13 a gazillion times, to the point I could do it in my sleep.

What I don't understand is, why modify the distributor base if it was specifically designed to be held in one place? It goes from a non adjustable distributor to an adjustable one. If it's now adjustable, why not use a timing light?

Is that done to compensate for wear to the engine components after 100K miles or so?
No. It's done because what they did in the manufacturing of the distributors was wrong!!! It caused so many issues that they put out a TSB on it. paying the dealers to index the distributors correctly.

.Distributor indexing explained


For clarification though, that's not a cam sensor inside the Renix dizzy. It's there to fire the injectors sequentially with the firing order. You'll never notice if it went bad because the ECU will try to "guess" where it is and does a heck of a job at it.

As for the "timing", it is controlled by the ECU. Ever notice how wide the tip of the rotor is? Try and wrap your head around this:

When the ECU yells "Fire" to the ignition control module, where is the rotor in relationship to the dizzy terminal? Not to the terminal yet? Past the terminal too far?

What happens to the spark/secondary ignition strength when it has to jump the Grand Canyon in comparison to shooting from a rotor tip?

Tip 13 gets the thing right. Use Tip 12 first to guarantee you're on #1 TDC.
Old Apr 6, 2015 | 08:16 AM
  #49273  
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Great explanation, cruiser
Old Apr 6, 2015 | 08:21 AM
  #49274  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Great explanation, cruiser
Thanks.
Old Apr 6, 2015 | 08:59 AM
  #49275  
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To Gunmetal, I have no power to any of my windows. Have tried the master control on driverside front and each individual window switch. Have not checked the fuse box yet either. But I know if the battery ground is not kept clean, problems arise.



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