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XJ Ask the Question Thread
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
When I overhauled my Cherokee, I replaced just about everything under the hood, including all of the sensors under the hood, along with the coil, module, wires.. etc, etc.
The only thing I didn't change was the distributor. Never saw the need because it runs pretty well.
I finally decided to slap in a new one. It's here on my desk ready to go.
Just out of curiosity, if I insert it one tooth off on the gear that turns it, will it still run?
Or is that enough of a difference in timing to keep it from starting?
The only thing I didn't change was the distributor. Never saw the need because it runs pretty well.
I finally decided to slap in a new one. It's here on my desk ready to go.
Just out of curiosity, if I insert it one tooth off on the gear that turns it, will it still run?
Or is that enough of a difference in timing to keep it from starting?
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Branford, CT
Year: 2008
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 3.7 L
I have a 95 Cherokee w/ 216k, the other day the power windows lost complete power. No noise or anything. Just stopped working. Wondering if the battery ground could be the problem since I have not cleaned it in about 6 months.
Just got a pair of MOOG sway bar bushings since my OEM ones are toast.
For the life of me I can't find information on whether or not they should be lubed prior to install. Do they need lube, and if so, what kind?
Thanks!
For the life of me I can't find information on whether or not they should be lubed prior to install. Do they need lube, and if so, what kind?
Thanks!
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 509
Likes: 1
From: Hampton Roads
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
I want to see this AW4. 4.10 is good for dd, 4.56 for power offroad and bad mpg. Since you're going with 35s I figure your offroading more so 4.56 look like the better option.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 0
From: South Mills, NC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Rebuilt 4.0L I6
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 641
Likes: 1
From: Anderson, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Reps on recharge . . . uh never mind
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 509
Likes: 1
From: Hampton Roads
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
That or your fuses for your window switches themselves. You tried to use any of the othwr switches?
Seasoned Member


Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 328
Likes: 5
From: Dominican Republic
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: inline 6
I've read 12 and 13 a gazillion times, to the point I could do it in my sleep.
What I don't understand is, why modify the distributor base if it was specifically designed to be held in one place? It goes from a non adjustable distributor to an adjustable one. If it's now adjustable, why not use a timing light?
Is that done to compensate for wear to the engine components after 100K miles or so?
What I don't understand is, why modify the distributor base if it was specifically designed to be held in one place? It goes from a non adjustable distributor to an adjustable one. If it's now adjustable, why not use a timing light?
Is that done to compensate for wear to the engine components after 100K miles or so?
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I've read 12 and 13 a gazillion times, to the point I could do it in my sleep.
What I don't understand is, why modify the distributor base if it was specifically designed to be held in one place? It goes from a non adjustable distributor to an adjustable one. If it's now adjustable, why not use a timing light?
Is that done to compensate for wear to the engine components after 100K miles or so?
What I don't understand is, why modify the distributor base if it was specifically designed to be held in one place? It goes from a non adjustable distributor to an adjustable one. If it's now adjustable, why not use a timing light?
Is that done to compensate for wear to the engine components after 100K miles or so?
.Distributor indexing explained
For clarification though, that's not a cam sensor inside the Renix dizzy. It's there to fire the injectors sequentially with the firing order. You'll never notice if it went bad because the ECU will try to "guess" where it is and does a heck of a job at it.
As for the "timing", it is controlled by the ECU. Ever notice how wide the tip of the rotor is? Try and wrap your head around this:
When the ECU yells "Fire" to the ignition control module, where is the rotor in relationship to the dizzy terminal? Not to the terminal yet? Past the terminal too far?
What happens to the spark/secondary ignition strength when it has to jump the Grand Canyon in comparison to shooting from a rotor tip?
Tip 13 gets the thing right. Use Tip 12 first to guarantee you're on #1 TDC.
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Branford, CT
Year: 2008
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 3.7 L
To Gunmetal, I have no power to any of my windows. Have tried the master control on driverside front and each individual window switch. Have not checked the fuse box yet either. But I know if the battery ground is not kept clean, problems arise.





