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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
so how much would you value a 94ish 4.0 out of an xj with the transmission (ax15) and transfer case (not sure on which one). already pulled? rebuilt 8 years ago with about 30,000 on the motor and 20,000 on transfer case and transmission? i have an 88 with the renix but want a strong 5 speed. would this be very difficult to swap the two?
No.
Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap
This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.
The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.
Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.
You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.
You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.
The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.
As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.
Jeep won't start, it was previously running great. Cranks for days, no start. No CEL.
New parts-
CPS, TPS IAC, battery, ignition coil, all grounds and power wires, spark plugs, plug wires, distributor, cap and rotor, ASD relay, as well as the other 3 bigger relays next to it, other stuff I'm forgetting, I'm sure.
Fuel pressure tested fine a few weeks ago when I was trouble shooting what turned out to be a grounding issue. Had spark at that time also. Will test for spark and fuel pressure again when I get a chance.
All fuses seem right.
I currently think it is possibly the MAP sensor, as it's the only old part I know I haven't replaced, besides the fuel pump. But it seems a stretch, as the symptoms only partially line up.
Any ideas? I don't care if you make me look dumb if it fixes the issue.
It is not the MAP sensor(was a long shot anyway), switched with a new one and nothing changed. Checked fuel pressure, ding ding ding, never went above about 8 PSI. Pulled a plug to check spark, Jeep almost started(with the plug out), which it hasn't for a few days. Spark is yellow, even with all new parts. Plug it back in, re-check fuel pressure, its around 49 and holding. Weird. Will be checking with a new coil next.
While trying to get the u-joints out of the shaft with a hammer I realized the joint stopped moving. I looked on the other side and realized i had pushed the zerk fitting into the shaft yoke. Will the shaft be alright to use as the rear driveshaft now? (That was the reason i got it in the first place) I would rather get another shaft than have problems down the road.
While trying to get the u-joints out of the shaft with a hammer I realized the joint stopped moving. I looked on the other side and realized i had pushed the zerk fitting into the shaft yoke. Will the shaft be alright to use as the rear driveshaft now? (That was the reason i got it in the first place) I would rather get another shaft than have problems down the road.
While trying to get the u-joints out of the shaft with a hammer I realized the joint stopped moving. I looked on the other side and realized i had pushed the zerk fitting into the shaft yoke. Will the shaft be alright to use as the rear driveshaft now? (That was the reason i got it in the first place) I would rather get another shaft than have problems down the road.
it will probably take more than a zerk and hammer to ruin a driveshaft. Many of the brand name parts retailers rent tools like u joint presses, check it out. Changed my life!
Last edited by Jaster343; Apr 4, 2015 at 06:05 PM.
it will probably take more than a zerk and hammer to ruin a driveshaft. Many of the brand name parts retailers rent tools like u joint presses, check it out. Changed my life!
Crack what, the zerk or the shaft? Shaft looks fine i wire wheeled it and shes good.
Jaster, they have a ball joint press...no other types of clamps that would work. After this scare i said i was renting the ball joint press anyway.
Crack what, the zerk or the shaft? Shaft looks fine i wire wheeled it and shes good. Jaster, they have a ball joint press...no other types of clamps that would work. After this scare i said i was renting the ball joint press anyway.
Yeah the shaft as long as thats fine your good and like he said it should take more then a hammer to hurt it
When I overhauled my Cherokee, I replaced just about everything under the hood, including all of the sensors under the hood, along with the coil, module, wires.. etc, etc.
The only thing I didn't change was the distributor. Never saw the need because it runs pretty well.
I finally decided to slap in a new one. It's here on my desk ready to go.
Just out of curiosity, if I insert it one tooth off on the gear that turns it, will it still run?
Or is that enough of a difference in timing to keep it from starting?
Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
