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Old Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 10:33 AM
  #47746  
Shawn350's Avatar
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From: Burbank, CA
Year: 1995
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So my windshield is leaking, the glass is in great shape. Is there a DIY way to fix this, if not can a glass man save my windshield??
Old Jan 12, 2015 | 10:50 AM
  #47747  
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Year: 1998, 1999
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Depends on the quality of the wire. What percentage is copper vs tin
Originally Posted by salad
+1, most speaker wire is finely stranded copper, the better stuff even being oxygen-free, and a startling amount of jumper cables are actually copper-clad aluminum. 8 gauge jumper cable though? What is that for, a lawn mower?
I am going off memory on the jumper cables, as I can't seem to find them right now to closely inspect. Just a junk set of cables I found somewhere. I'm guessing the audio wire is better, also because it's now all I have so I'm going to try it. I pulled it out of a vehicle a while back. If I figure out this wire isn't that great, I'll spend the money on proper wire. Budget is tight, and anything is better than what I've got.
Old Jan 12, 2015 | 10:53 AM
  #47748  
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Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
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Yes the audio cable would be much better to be used for audio, assuming both are in the same condition.
Old Jan 12, 2015 | 11:22 AM
  #47749  
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Originally Posted by salad
Yes the audio cable would be much better to be used for audio, assuming both are in the same condition.
I was more asking if I could use the audio wire to replace the ground wire, alt wire, starter positive wire, fuse box wire, etc but it sounds like you just said I probably should only use it for audio applications, am I understanding what you said correctly? I don't know where the jumper cables are so I can't use them. I don't have much electrical experience so maybe it's a dumb question but I thought maybe the audio wire was similar enough to the stock wires, besides bigger, so I could do a small upgrade in wires when replacing my battery terminals. Make sense? Or am I coming across as a dummy

Last edited by T1XJ; Jan 12, 2015 at 11:26 AM.
Old Jan 12, 2015 | 11:31 AM
  #47750  
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Wow ok so major typo, the audio cable is 4 gauge, must have looked at it 15 times without registering that I wrote 8 gauge in previous posts.
Old Jan 12, 2015 | 11:40 AM
  #47751  
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No makes perfect sense... the audio cable will be much better quality, although the insulation is most likely not rated for harsh environments so you'll need to address that somehow. Though you will have a hard time crimping 4 AWG lol
Old Jan 12, 2015 | 12:16 PM
  #47752  
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This is why I'm changing the wires... I feel like anything is better than this.
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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 01:19 PM
  #47753  
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That's nasty!
Old Jan 12, 2015 | 05:37 PM
  #47754  
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Default 2000 Cherokee 4-Cylinder Charging Issue

Hello all,

Recently my XJ has started to act up. It is a 2000 2.5 Cylinder with a 5spd. On Friday the battery light kicked on and soon after the truck died. I removed the battery and replaced it with a brand new one, took it to an O-Reilly's and the alternator tested fine while still mounted. Driving home the battery light kicked back on. I parked it for a few hours then went back in the garage and checked volts at battery, was only getting 12V. Shut it off and turned it back on and I was getting 14.2V. With loads on it was at 14V. I disconnected the PCM and reconnected it. That night, no battery light popped on. Next day the light popped on and I tested the volts at the battery to be 12V again. I ran another alternator test and it was consistently 12V, no amps from the Alternator. I removed the alternator and benched tested it and it came out good. Popped everything back in and no battery light. Anybody know what this can be? It is intermittent and weird. I read some threads about a fusible link and grounds. Anybody have a wiring diagram or locator for these for a 2.5 XJ?

Cliff notes:
-Intermittent battery light keeps coming on
-Sometimes volts at battery are 14.2, sometimes 12
-Battery is good and alternator is good
-2000 2.5L 5SPD Manual
-And if it is a PCM, mine ends in 661AE, which I have not been able to locate. Is there info on which PCM's are compatible?
Old Jan 12, 2015 | 06:58 PM
  #47755  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by YK91
Hello all,

Recently my XJ has started to act up. It is a 2000 2.5 Cylinder with a 5spd. On Friday the battery light kicked on and soon after the truck died. I removed the battery and replaced it with a brand new one, took it to an O-Reilly's and the alternator tested fine while still mounted. Driving home the battery light kicked back on. I parked it for a few hours then went back in the garage and checked volts at battery, was only getting 12V. Shut it off and turned it back on and I was getting 14.2V. With loads on it was at 14V. I disconnected the PCM and reconnected it. That night, no battery light popped on. Next day the light popped on and I tested the volts at the battery to be 12V again. I ran another alternator test and it was consistently 12V, no amps from the Alternator. I removed the alternator and benched tested it and it came out good. Popped everything back in and no battery light. Anybody know what this can be? It is intermittent and weird. I read some threads about a fusible link and grounds. Anybody have a wiring diagram or locator for these for a 2.5 XJ?

Cliff notes:
-Intermittent battery light keeps coming on
-Sometimes volts at battery are 14.2, sometimes 12
-Battery is good and alternator is good
-2000 2.5L 5SPD Manual
-And if it is a PCM, mine ends in 661AE, which I have not been able to locate. Is there info on which PCM's are compatible?
Unfortunately I don't have the information you need to fix the problem, but I want to thank you for providing such a thorough description and the necessary information. You're the kind of person we all like to help.

I would start with cleaning grounds and making sure the connections are clean and not corroded. I don't have a diagram for you, though
Old Jan 12, 2015 | 06:58 PM
  #47756  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by YK91
Hello all, Recently my XJ has started to act up. It is a 2000 2.5 Cylinder with a 5spd. On Friday the battery light kicked on and soon after the truck died. I removed the battery and replaced it with a brand new one, took it to an O-Reilly's and the alternator tested fine while still mounted. Driving home the battery light kicked back on. I parked it for a few hours then went back in the garage and checked volts at battery, was only getting 12V. Shut it off and turned it back on and I was getting 14.2V. With loads on it was at 14V. I disconnected the PCM and reconnected it. That night, no battery light popped on. Next day the light popped on and I tested the volts at the battery to be 12V again. I ran another alternator test and it was consistently 12V, no amps from the Alternator. I removed the alternator and benched tested it and it came out good. Popped everything back in and no battery light. Anybody know what this can be? It is intermittent and weird. I read some threads about a fusible link and grounds. Anybody have a wiring diagram or locator for these for a 2.5 XJ? Cliff notes: -Intermittent battery light keeps coming on -Sometimes volts at battery are 14.2, sometimes 12 -Battery is good and alternator is good -2000 2.5L 5SPD Manual -And if it is a PCM, mine ends in 661AE, which I have not been able to locate. Is there info on which PCM's are compatible?

Have you checked and cleaned the grounds yet. Checked. Condition of the wires etc?
Old Jan 12, 2015 | 07:54 PM
  #47757  
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From: San Jose
Year: 89
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Originally Posted by Shawn350
So my windshield is leaking, the glass is in great shape. Is there a DIY way to fix this, if not can a glass man save my windshield??
Do you know where its leaking from? I rtv'd the hell out of mine and it worked. Let me guess, kinda right above the driver huh?
Old Jan 12, 2015 | 08:36 PM
  #47758  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Thoughts about this Craigslist ad? The 9" is already 5x5.5, so they'd match. $300 for the pair:

Originally Posted by Early Jeep Wagoneer D44, Ford 9 inch - $300
Pair of axles for your Jeep project. Both have 3.5x gears, both are complete. Front is torn down to knuckle to swap bearings/hubs/rotors to 5x5.5.

Spindles included. Steering included. Parking brake cables included with rear. All rear brake hardware is there with drums.

Like to sell as a pair. Can help with delivery.

Last edited by NewKindOfClown; Jan 12, 2015 at 08:39 PM.
Old Jan 12, 2015 | 09:07 PM
  #47759  
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From: Burbank, CA
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by JerrytheJeep
Do you know where its leaking from? I rtv'd the hell out of mine and it worked. Let me guess, kinda right above the driver huh?
It leaks at the bottom and runs down the side wall into the floor boards. both sides.
Old Jan 12, 2015 | 09:12 PM
  #47760  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Thoughts about this Craigslist ad? The 9" is already 5x5.5, so they'd match. $300 for the pair:
Why does that price seem to good to be true. Maybe it's the city thing, things are always higher priced, but maybe you can go there and look at them and check the condition. That is a common run. Someone with more knowledge can add though, thought the waggy 44 was 3.73. Unless those were just the tow package ones



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