No such animal as an ignition module on these vehicles. Does the Jeep crank at normal speed? Do you know if it will start on starting fluid?

 

Does anyone know how to calibrate the overhead console compass on a 91. It just has two buttons comp/temp and metric/us. There are a couple directions on the web but they have a reset button and I tried that sequencing on both buttons but no luck.

 

Is the driveshaft length the same on the rear (I have an ax15 and 8.25 rear and I'm gonna be swapping in a xj d44. ) Just trying to see if I don't have to change the driveshaft.

 

Some of those are calibrated by driving in a tight circle 3-4 times, its enough for the poles to be reset

 

Thanks for the response, tried that as well. Maybe it is just broken.

 

They're very close, C8.25 pinion is 5/8" longer than the D44's if I recall correctly

 

ah I see. the xj 44 is from an auto (87). And mine is a manual. Hmm I think there's a chart floating somewhere here. I ll look for it

 

Unless you have a D35 in that heep it won't be a problem. Ring gear is slightly larger in a D44 at 8.5". Overall I think they use the same length DS.

 

for both auto and manual?

 

No. Within the same transmission class. Auto DS is 1" shorter than manual DS. Manual D35 shaft is monster long, auto C8.25/D44 is smallest.

 

Hmm would 5/8 be too much to extend?

 

part numbers are the same for D44 and C8.25, and only different for D35 (other variables excluded)

 

thanks man.

 

Not a question this time, but a quick lesson for anyone who is curious about carrier breaks and/or thick cut gears. This explains the basics of gearing, where the numbers come from, why carrier breaks exist, what thick cut gears are for, and gives a list of many common axles with their breaks. Good read for anyone who isn't familiar. It's a short read with good illustrations

The only issue I see is that they mixed up the terms "higher" and "lower" gears. "Lower" gears are numerically higher. For example, when discussing gears, 3.55 is higher than 4.10

Here ya go:
http://www.crawlpedia.com/thick_gears.htm

 

Okay, now a question.

I love Riddler diff covers, but I do recognize the drawback of a cast iron cover. I would rather have a dent than a crack. I'm looking at possibly getting a 14 Bolt rear, and I'll shave it a little if I do. This gives me two options that appeal to me:

Under Cover Fabworks welded 14 Bolt Shaved Cover
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-626...ved-gears.html


Crane 13 Bolt Cover
http://www.torqaxle.com/Crane-13-Bolt-Cover_p_113.html


Both remove the 14th bolt, which doesn't worry me, and both allow the bottom of the 14 Bolt to be shaved without heavy fab work, for about a 1" clearance gain. Should I be worried about the Crane 13 being cast even though it's made of chromoly, or should I trust that over the UCF welded steel cover?