I built my own and the material cost me as much as a putco cost. (About 35)

 

For me the Putco route was the cheapest. I'd rather build my own but getting my paws on the H4 plugs was prohibitive.

 

I saw y'alls recommendation of building my own a mile off!
Putco it is, thanks!

 

I've asked, and I haven't seen anything. I created my own thread in the Test section to try it out, and I've just been updating that with the issues I find

 

i bought the LMC 36-3580 one

 

99 sport new clutch, pressure plate , throwout, pilot bearing. Put 1000 miles on it now hard to put in first and second gear reverse grinds. Slave and mc full. If put in first with cluch in jeep pulls itself any ideas?

 

2000 XJ, do the trans and TC have extended vent tubes? (to cold to look)

 

I haven't done my clutch before but is yours bleedable? Sounds like there's a pile of air in the lines.

Just a little elbow and the hose goes up the frame a tad. If you plan on a lot of water fording you'll want to run them up to your firewall.

 

Salad, it is bleedable but its never been off and done great until now.

 

Thanks. No telling what my son might get into, especially at parties

Got plenty of time until the water is liquid around here

Also, do they need the valve like the axle has?

 

Well I suppose something internal could be something being bent? But really sounds to me like air got into the clutch if it did this over time.

Heh, at least you're being realistic! No valve is required if you "do it properly". Here's an idea: http://jeep-xj.info/HowtoBreatherExtensions.htm

Or, you could put them into a home-made manifold of Tees and use a single CCV-like breather filter. I think some guys have even used fuel filters before

 

alright guys,
So, we've got more adventures with the wife jeep. It's a 96 zj limited 4.0l. Its got the all time 4wd. It has a random miss. Seems to be worst under load and idling. It will die at stoplights.

Unfortunately, it doesn't do it consistently. One trip it'll be fine the next it will run terrible. It seems that if I run it for a long time, it get better but doesn't go away completely. It almost never likes idling at a stoplight.

I've gotten it to trip code a few times, and it's always all of the misfire codes. 1-6 and random (P0300 to P0306)

I've been working on catching up maintenance so here's what's been changed recently:
Distributor
Cap and rotor
Ignition coil
wires
plugs
fuel filter
air filter
TPS
IAC
Crank sensor
Dealt with rear main
replaced thermostat
o2 sensors
Seafoamed it (worth a try even if it might be snake oil)
cleaned the throttle body

Like I said, I'm stumped guys.
Thanks in advance for the help.

 

what does a map sensor do, and more importantly, what does it cause when it goes bad?

 

What do the spark plugs look like? Are there any interesting pending codes? Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

The Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor does basically what it sounds like. Measures the absolute air pressure in the manifold lol. It's used in a role similar to a MAF, to determine how much air is ACTUALLY going into the engine, in concert with the TPS the PCM makes a basic guess as to how much fuel to be injected. High vacuum = closed throttle, low vacuum = open throttle. A MAP sensor that doesn't have a good vacuum connection to the manifold will read near atmospheric pressure and you'll run very rich.

 

[QUOTE=salad;3037401]What do the spark plugs look like? Are there any interesting pending codes? Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

I don't think I have any vacuum leaks, but I will check yet again. As of 100 miles ago, spark plugs looked pretty good. I've changed them a couple times during this adventure with no real change. The only codes that have popped are the misfire codes. Nothing pending. Edit: And the codes that popped when I disconnected things for diagnosis. e.g. oxy sen code.