Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here XJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Old Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
How-Tos on this Topic
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:

Browse all: General Overview
Print Wikipost

XJ Ask the Question Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jul 12, 2016 | 07:56 AM
  #55246  
CR-Snow's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 736
Likes: 5
From: Louisville KY
Year: 01
Model: Cherokee
Default

Originally Posted by Nasty4.0
Agreed and like I said it works well enough but it could be better to have the tripple fan setup and do away with the mechanical one in my opinion the more air you can move the better
I think you are wrong when you say you think it could be better. The shroud and fan/clutch is very very reliable. And that's the key here. Ever had your electric fan go out? Tons of people have. And that mechanical fan just keeps on spinning. I think if you really went crazy, maybe you could do a 3 fan setup that would work better than the factory setup, but you'd have some work in your hands. If you were to
Do it, I'd suggest independent circuits for all the fans and individual relays for all as well. The big benefit of a mechanical fan with an electric supplement is redundancy. When you have a bunch of electric fans, and you sink your front bumper in a big *** mud hole or cross a creek you thought was a bit more shallow, you run a pretty big risk of frying all of your cooling.

My buddy fried his electric fan on his WJ a few months back on the trail just splashing through some big puddles. But he didn't overheat because his main cooling fan wasn't electrical.

Just realized this is turning into a novel and most likely has been covered before! Cheers. Just some food for thought. Happy jeeping
Old Jul 12, 2016 | 08:03 AM
  #55247  
CR-Snow's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 736
Likes: 5
From: Louisville KY
Year: 01
Model: Cherokee
Default

Originally Posted by NewbJeep
Any other opinions on the impact wrench vs. breaker when attacking exhaust manifold bolts? Also, can anyone recommend anything else I should replace while the exhaust and intake are off? Replacing the CPS while I'm in there.
All you really need is a 3/8 drive ratchet, assorted extensions and universal connector. That's the trick. If possible, get a buddy to lay on underneath and sort of spot for you. It's much easier when someone can actually see the socket landing properly on the nut. Once you've done it a few times (sigh) it's easier to know, but the first few times it's pretty crucial to have a helper. It's also nice to have someone around for moral support lol.

Skip the PB blaster and Kroil those bolts up for a couple days! Shouldn't need a breaker bar.
Old Jul 12, 2016 | 08:41 AM
  #55248  
Nasty4.0's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 88
Likes: 20
From: Colorado
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 (Renix)
Default

Originally Posted by CR-Snow

I think you are wrong when you say you think it could be better. The shroud and fan/clutch is very very reliable. And that's the key here. Ever had your electric fan go out? Tons of people have. And that mechanical fan just keeps on spinning. I think if you really went crazy, maybe you could do a 3 fan setup that would work better than the factory setup, but you'd have some work in your hands. If you were to
Do it, I'd suggest independent circuits for all the fans and individual relays for all as well. The big benefit of a mechanical fan with an electric supplement is redundancy. When you have a bunch of electric fans, and you sink your front bumper in a big *** mud hole or cross a creek you thought was a bit more shallow, you run a pretty big risk of frying all of your cooling.

My buddy fried his electric fan on his WJ a few months back on the trail just splashing through some big puddles. But he didn't overheat because his main cooling fan wasn't electrical.

Just realized this is turning into a novel and most likely has been covered before! Cheers. Just some food for thought. Happy jeeping
Yes I suppose from that aspect I would agree that it would be far more beneficial to have the mechanical fan I was more referring to a daily driver but you make some excellent points and have effectively changed my mind about the 3 fan setup
Old Jul 12, 2016 | 10:19 AM
  #55249  
Cane's Avatar
CF Veteran
 
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 2
From: Quebec
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

When replacing the exhaust manifold, do I need to replace the intake gasket even if I'm not replacing it, or a good clean should be enough? I will get the gasket for the exhaust part, but can I save some money without changing the other?

Also when putting the new gasket on, I've seen some tutorials where people put a spray on copper coating, Is this necessary or as long as the mating area is clean all is good?

cheers
Old Jul 12, 2016 | 10:31 AM
  #55250  
XJwonders's Avatar
CF Veteran
Premium Member
 
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 19,219
Likes: 45
From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by Cane
When replacing the exhaust manifold, do I need to replace the intake gasket even if I'm not replacing it, or a good clean should be enough? I will get the gasket for the exhaust part, but can I save some money without changing the other? Also when putting the new gasket on, I've seen some tutorials where people put a spray on copper coating, Is this necessary or as long as the mating area is clean all is good? cheers
the intake/exhaust gasket is a single piece. No u don't need the copper coating. The gasket is just fine
Old Jul 12, 2016 | 10:38 AM
  #55251  
Cane's Avatar
CF Veteran
 
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 2
From: Quebec
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

you're right I have no idea how I have never noticed this. good news then! thanks
Old Jul 12, 2016 | 10:54 AM
  #55252  
nardey11's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 205
Likes: 1
From: New York
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Straight 6
Default

I replaced 02s and spark plugs, my 2000 is still running a little rough. Is there any way to clean injectors without fuel additives?
Old Jul 12, 2016 | 10:58 AM
  #55253  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
Premium Member
 
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Default

Originally Posted by nardey11
I replaced 02s and spark plugs, my 2000 is still running a little rough. Is there any way to clean injectors without fuel additives?
SUre, remove them and soak 'em in solvent

Are any codes showing or pending?
Old Jul 12, 2016 | 11:06 AM
  #55254  
nardey11's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 205
Likes: 1
From: New York
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Straight 6
Default

Originally Posted by salad
SUre, remove them and soak 'em in solvent

Are any codes showing or pending?
No codes, but it definitely idles kind of poorly and I don't know what else can cause that. I also want to clean the throttle body and iac.
Old Jul 12, 2016 | 11:15 AM
  #55255  
XJwonders's Avatar
CF Veteran
Premium Member
 
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 19,219
Likes: 45
From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by nardey11
No codes, but it definitely idles kind of poorly and I don't know what else can cause that. I also want to clean the throttle body and iac.
did you bleed the fuel rail of air properly. Sometimes it would idle rough when there's air bubbles stuck inside the fuel rail
Old Jul 12, 2016 | 11:19 AM
  #55256  
nardey11's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 205
Likes: 1
From: New York
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Straight 6
Default

Originally Posted by XJwonders
did you bleed the fuel rail of air properly. Sometimes it would idle rough when there's air bubbles stuck inside the fuel rail
How would I do that? Just release the pressure from the valve?
Old Jul 12, 2016 | 11:34 AM
  #55257  
XJwonders's Avatar
CF Veteran
Premium Member
 
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 19,219
Likes: 45
From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by nardey11
How would I do that? Just release the pressure from the valve?
turn the ignition to "on" and press on the valve couple of times then start the engine and press on the valve once to make sure there's a steady stream of fuel coming out, not bubbly spray.
Old Jul 12, 2016 | 11:55 AM
  #55258  
CR-Snow's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 736
Likes: 5
From: Louisville KY
Year: 01
Model: Cherokee
Default

Originally Posted by nardey11
No codes, but it definitely idles kind of poorly and I don't know what else can cause that. I also want to clean the throttle body and iac.
Dang. No codes? I wish I had no codes.
Old Jul 12, 2016 | 11:56 AM
  #55259  
CR-Snow's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 736
Likes: 5
From: Louisville KY
Year: 01
Model: Cherokee
Default

Originally Posted by Nasty4.0
Yes I suppose from that aspect I would agree that it would be far more beneficial to have the mechanical fan I was more referring to a daily driver but you make some excellent points and have effectively changed my mind about the 3 fan setup
Right on. I was all sorts of pumped on that dirtbound triple fan setup at one point. Then I saw my buddy very easily fry his fan and my mind changed.
Old Jul 12, 2016 | 01:22 PM
  #55260  
nardey11's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 205
Likes: 1
From: New York
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Straight 6
Default

Originally Posted by XJwonders
turn the ignition to "on" and press on the valve couple of times then start the engine and press on the valve once to make sure there's a steady stream of fuel coming out, not bubbly spray.

Originally Posted by salad
SUre, remove them and soak 'em in solvent

Are any codes showing or pending?
I did what you guys said, cleaned the throttle body, the iac and burped the fuel rail and it runs noticeably better. Thanks guys!



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:44 PM.