Here's to us obtaining the dream jobs this/next year!

 

Replacing wiring with upgraded 4 AWG. What am I seeing here? Black box mounted to the bottom of the alt and going somewhere near the engine block. Sorry if app rotates the photo! (On mobile)

 

Thanks for the advice. I followed it, minus the alligator clips!, and the motor wouldn't budge. Replaced it and all is right in windowville again.

 

Replaced my trans mount over the weekend (rubber mount), and now it sounds like my exhaust is in my back seat, and I have a little bit more vibes than before. Smooth while coasting but kinda loud and "aggressive" feeling under acceleration. Should I be replacing motor mounts at the same time, or is there something else I should be looking for?

 

What brand trans mount?

 

Thought I remember Brown Dog instructions stating you can replace motor mounts without replacing trans mount at the same time but not transmission mount without replacing motor mounts. Not saying you need Brown Dog but it might be something with the angles and new positions of the trans/motor

 

Wanted to thank you guys again. Got the alternator on tonight and it all looks/runs good. Don't know what I'd do without Cherokee Forum. Probably have a car payment or something...

 

Actually have brown dog motor mounts! :-) just ran out of time to get them installed too. I only installed the new trans mount because I was installing my cavfab crossmember. So I'll just hold off on that until I get the motor mounts taken care of.

 

Yep. Leave the trans mount loose while you install BD mounts. Follow his directions carefully and you should have no problems. I still have a bit of a rumble at idle but I don't mind it.

 

Just to reinforce this, it's important to follow the torque instructions on their website. Don't brush it off, or you'll hate the new mounts.

 

Thanks gents! Although, he doesn't call for a "torque" per say on the through bolts, just to tighten them JUST enough that I can't spin the washers by hand.

Speaking of which, are the brackets necessary? I just have the mounts themselves. Sounds like he recommends the brackets, but not sure if I necessarily need them on a DD. Thoughts? Again, probably thinking too far into it, but I don't want the brackets or the bracket to engine block bolts to break.

 

X2 on both of these.


Anyway, so i have a putco headlight harness and my high beams don't work. Today I figured out why. The red in the plug pulled out. Both relays are fine and tested with the low beam.

I have these https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017V...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And am curious to see if they could wired into the putco harness. Or can someone lead me onto the proper relay/plug harness.

I originally thought it was a bad relay since they're notorious for failing and ordered this set of relays. Apparently whatever thread i was reading was wrong. My fault, but I would really like to have high beams again.

 

I'll drink to that!

That is Chrysler's wonderful answer to not trusting their technicians to properly connect an alternator.

Excellent!

See? Good Advice Saught + Finding Good Advice + Following Good Advice = Positive Results

I honestly can't remember the prong count on the relays. I wanna say that's correct, but I can't swear by it.

 

Pop's Jeep sat too long and now the caliper is stuck. What a smell. At least I was able to get it home.

If I replace the front calipers, do I have to bleed RR, RL, FR, FL or can I just bleed the fronts? I don't want to risk ringing off the rear bleeder valves and increasing my job time.

 

Alright guys so I flushed my radiator and heater core about a week ago and filled it back up with good antifreeze. Sadly I still don't consistently have good heat. Both of the heater core hoses are hot when at running temperature and when I try to run the heat the belts start squeaking like a stuck hog. I'm running out of ideas here somebody help me lol