The temperature stays around the normal mark (215). I dont have any mods on it engine related, but it does have 185K miles on it. Top end was rebuilt right before I bought it. The head was replaced as well.

 

215 is kinda warm to start. What does temp do when wheeling? Do you know what predetonation feels/sounds like? Is oil synthetic?

 

So its a little under 215 normally (guessing just under 210) but stays at 215 when wheeling. I don't hear any knocking or pinging. Im just using standard oil. I thought of doing synth but its pretty spendy. Do you think it would be worth it?

 

Mine has always run at this. Atleast since I've owned it for the last 10 months. This isnt okay?

 

Ok so... I'm going to drop the oil pan this weekend to fix the leaky gasket what else should I look at or do before the run to the parts store

 

[QUOTE="dwilly;2829245"]Ok so... I'm going to drop the oil pan this weekend to fix the leaky gasket what else should I look at or do before the run to the parts store. Any other gaskets or anything while I'm under there? 97 4.0.

 

Have a rage roof rack. Old gutter mounts are shot. Haul a tire, shovel, and hi-lift on rack. Anyone know some beefy gutter mounts worth buying? Here Is a link to the ones I had.

http://www.prolineracks.com/proline-...ter-racks.html

I scrapped the bars, used some rectangle stock in lieu of, worked for about 18 mo or so. Till I smashed one Wheelin. Just need mounts, not bars. Tia...

 

So I understand the concept of a Tap and Die set but hoe exactly do you figure out which thread and type your bolts are?

There have been numerous times iv wanted to clean the threads out but dont know which one to use.

Im thinking about getting a tap and die set that's why im asking.

 

hey everybody.
looks like it's time to do gaskets
rear main seal, oil pan, timing chain, valve cover
I know I can get a set of them for the bottom 3
but are there any recommendations as to which gasket kit will be best

and, is the rms the nightmare people make it out to be?

 

take em to ace or somewhere like that (not the big 2)
they got a pretty sweet chart over by the nuts and bolts,
it has helped me lots in id'ing the thread type on all kinds of stuff
then you can get the appropriate tap and die set

 

Well the sets im looking at are full sets most common size nuts and bolts. Im mainly looking for something to buy and keep at home to identify the size and thread type if they even have that.

 

Something like this?

 

Hello,
I have a 1999 jeep Cherokee 4.0L and I am trying to mod my electric fan to a switch so that I can override the computer.

I opened up my relay box to find the wires I need to splice into and found the two trigger wires for the relay I am just not sure which one is which. There is a dark blue wire with a pink stripe and a solid white wire which is also jumped from the fan relay to the A/C Clutch. I need to know what these two wires go to, I have tried some tests with the voltmeter but am having no luck finding who is ground and who is +12 from computer.

 

Felpro blue.

Have you read this?

Valve cover can leak out the back and look like a rear main.
Oil filter adapter, distributor can look like a pan gasket leaking.....





I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.

Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking.

Many mechanics, friends, people on Jeep forums who can’t see your Jeep from where they’re at, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?

A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.

Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons.

First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill".

Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.

Revised 02-26-2013

 

I want to do some general maintenance to my 1991 XJ 4x4 5 speed. I just bought it last week and I've done coolant flush, power steering flush, oil change, new battery and terminals. Now I want to change the front/rear axle fluid/manual tranny fluid/transfer case oil. I was planning on using Mobile 1 synthetic 75w90 for everything except the rear axle (75w140). I need to know how many quarts of oil I will need, I have a budget of 80 bucks right now so what would you do first? Transmission and rear differential? I found gear oil for 12.00 qt shipped from amazon.