Stock gauges, "carbon fiber" overlays: http://myworld.ebay.com/azzysdesignworks $22.50, but I got them for best offer of $20.50.

Blue L.E.D. lights: Amazon, seller XKGLOW $5.49 for 8 bulbs.

 

I thought it might be Azzy, but I couldn't think of his name. They make good stuff from what I've seen.

 

Love the little mountains on this one....if it only said "Cherokee"

 

Bought a 500 dollar 96 Cherokee Sport w/ 4.0 and 4 wheel drive. got it cheap because of blown head gasket and non-existent floor boards, which I welded in a whole new floor pan set.

I replaced the blown gasket (had a definite hole between #4 and #5 cyl) with a new fel-pro one. head was in spec for flatness and was torqed to spec and #11 bolt threads were sealed. of course some idiot used TONS of stop leak and she still over heats. while the head was off, I dug out (and blew clean with compressed air) the PLUGGED coolant ports in the head and they are clean as a whistle. water pump looks new and today I removed the radiator and flushed and shook it about 50 times and got it to flow real good in both directions, reinstalled rad, and a new 180° Stant thermostat. also flushed the engine and it seems to flow ok. no overheating while idling in the driveway only when I drive it. any other ideas?

clutch on the belt driven fan is good, when you rev the engine the fan will blow your hat off into the next county and it has good resistance when you turn it by hand with the engine off. the electric fan works as it should.

my next step tomorrow will be pull the t-stat back out, add some coolant system cleaner with plain water and drive it a couple days with no t-stat, drain, flush with clean water again, refill and see what I got. if it don't work, I guess I need to pull the water pump and inspect the vanes on the impeller. only other thing it could be is the block water ports plugged too? both hoses get hard when it overheating. heater core has good flow both ways(I have good heat) and there are no coolant leaks anywhere including internal. If I get no results after the cleaning and inspecting the pump, I guess I gotta pull the head again, and recheck the block ports. Hope I don't have to do that!

 

It can...
http://www.azzysdesignworks.com/stor...herokee-gauges

 

Had the same problem. This may sound off a little, but it worked. Get some MEAN GREEN and add it to the system after you remove the t-stat and flush. I used the hose from the top of the t-stat housing to back flush it. I also used some bleach clean stuff too. seemed to solve the problem. Don't forget to drill two little holes in the t-stat, it works!!

 

x2 on drilling small weep hole in T-Stat. Something my pops taught me a long time ago.

 

My Stant t-stat comes with a 'weep hole' or 'bypass hole'.
Required for high flow water pumps.
180 degree t-stat is too cool for the 4.0
She likes the 195.

 

Friends 2000 Cherokee had several fault codes after replacing transmission. Codes referencing IAC & Transmission and No Buss. The No Buss error is gone now after he replaced instrument cluster. Have only been communicating over phone so have not looked at jeep myself. Jeep still wouldn't start after No Buss error was gone just crank. He already replaced Crank Pos. Sensor still no go. Yesterday he unplugged the IAC and jeep fired right up. Would this be a bad IAC causing this or does he have a short in IAC circuit somewhere? How to test at IAC connector for short etc.? Thanks

 

Do you have a multimeter? I'd just get resistance across the pins.

 

i have to use the "prime" method to start my jeep but lately my jeep thunks when it starts only does it once but i kind of think the starter is sticking at first and someone said something about a flywheel? what could it be? really dont wanna pay the shop 70+ an hr

 

From looking at FSM the 4 wires in IAC connector all come directly from PCM. They are all signal wires. 3 of them are close signal and only 1 of them Grey/Red wire open signal.
If I was there would just unplug at PCM and tone out each wire then make sure none of them are shorted to ground I guess.


Guessing PCM is closing the IAC motor when keyed up not allowing any air in TB? As stated before if he unplugs the IAC connector the jeep fires right up without hesitation. When its plugged in does sound like its trying to fire just not getting air.


Thanks Salad

 

Oh I thought you meant nothing happens like there was a short in the IAC.

Yes the PCM is may be shutting the IAC mistakenly. If it was stuck full of goo unplugging it shouldn't make a difference. Look around for the trick to clean the PCM's short-term adaptive memory, it's often mentioned in fuel injector swaps. Some folks have been able to resolve issues where the PCM "remembers" the IAC's current position incorrectly. Dumping the short term memory will make it re-learn the IAC.

Worth a shot for free lol

 

So I did my oil change back on March 5th and while cleaning out my jeep I decided to just check fluids and everything. Well my oil dipstick was well under the add level. Not sure where it went or what could be the cause. I put the entire 5 quarts of oil in when I did the change. Plus when I start it no matter cold start or coming out of store after driving it start there's a faint smell of what seems to me to be burnt oil. Any ideas or suggestions?

 

is that for me?

well, then opinion pole time I guess
which bumper should I throw on ol' Bernice?
keep in mind, I want to make turning the steering wheel optional