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Old Apr 11, 2014 | 12:21 PM
  #41776  
NewKindOfClown's Avatar
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by unidentifiedbomb
Anyone have a rear tail light wiring diagram for an 88', need to splice a license plate light to the amber light
What exactly do you need the diagram for?
Old Apr 11, 2014 | 01:18 PM
  #41777  
NewKindOfClown's Avatar
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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'93 YJ with a vac disco D30 (in case it matters)

I'll be doing u-joints, ball joints, and wheel bearings next weekend. Are there any particular brands I should be looking for?
Old Apr 11, 2014 | 02:11 PM
  #41778  
salad's Avatar
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
'93 YJ with a vac disco D30 (in case it matters)

I'll be doing u-joints, ball joints, and wheel bearings next weekend. Are there any particular brands I should be looking for?
Moog/Precision or Spicer U joints; Moog/Precision, Alloy USA or Spicer ball joints (Spicers don't have greaseable bottoms but somehow last forever); Timken or SKF hub bearings.
Old Apr 11, 2014 | 02:51 PM
  #41779  
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From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by salad
Moog/Precision or Spicer U joints; Moog/Precision, Alloy USA or Spicer ball joints (Spicers don't have greaseable bottoms but somehow last forever); Timken or SKF hub bearings.
Moog gets a bad rap from my local NAPA store. They say they get too many returns on Moog products.

Spicer U-joints of course. Who needs zerk fitting anyway - you'll just forget to grease them. Used Precision U's on my rear drive shaft once and they shelled out in a couple months. Back to Spicer.

Put Timken hubs in and I've had no problems with them. Would have used SKF but couldn't afford them.
Old Apr 11, 2014 | 03:14 PM
  #41780  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Thanks, guys.
Old Apr 11, 2014 | 03:22 PM
  #41781  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Follow-up:

Is it worth replacing the hub for ~$70/side, or should I save the money and just do the bearings for ~$12/side?

EDIT update: Did some research. The hubs aren't rebuildable, so I'll be buying full replacements, and I'll finally need to add a 36mm socket to my collection.

I'm looking at this:
2x Spicer 1658502 U-joints ($40)
2x Timken 513084 hubs ($133)
2x Spicer 1803603 Upper & Lower ball joint ($127)
Total: $300+shipping

Last edited by NewKindOfClown; Apr 11, 2014 at 06:11 PM.
Old Apr 11, 2014 | 05:19 PM
  #41782  
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From: Burien, wa
Year: 88
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.o
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What am I doing wrong, I ordered new brake hoses for my 88. Went to swap the rear and it's wrong. The bolt ate also the breather is about 3/8" and both replacement hoses I've ordered are both wrong, the whole is about 1/4".

I just can't figure out what hose I need. If the hose on my jeep wasn't cracked and coming apart I could have more time to figure this out but I don't have time, I need to have this fixed ASAP.
Old Apr 11, 2014 | 06:02 PM
  #41783  
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From: Pennsylvania
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, 60mm TB, 784's
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My left front wheel isn't centered in the wheel well (sits farther back), but the right side is. Why is that? Jeep has a 3" lift with stock control arms(don't know if that matters). The last time I greased the front end, I didn't notice anything bent. Can't check it again right now cause it's pouring.
Old Apr 11, 2014 | 06:07 PM
  #41784  
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From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by JeepTrick68
My left front wheel isn't centered in the wheel well (sits farther back), but the right side is. Why is that? Jeep has a 3" lift with stock control arms(don't know if that matters). The last time I greased the front end, I didn't notice anything bent. Can't check it again right now cause it's pouring.
your track bar isn't centered. Would be best to get adjustable track bar
Old Apr 11, 2014 | 06:13 PM
  #41785  
C H E R O K E E 98XJ's Avatar
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From: Minnesota
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Liter Inline 6
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
your track bar isn't centered. Would be best to get adjustable track bar
I think he means from the side, not the front. Like as if a control arm is shorter than the other
Old Apr 11, 2014 | 06:23 PM
  #41786  
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From: west chester, pa
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Originally Posted by C H E R O K E E 98XJ
I think he means from the side, not the front. Like as if a control arm is shorter than the other
ah sorry I read too fast, lol. Thanks for correcting me
Old Apr 11, 2014 | 06:56 PM
  #41787  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by CCKen
Moog gets a bad rap from my local NAPA store. They say they get too many returns on Moog products.
...
Used Precision U's on my rear drive shaft once and they shelled out in a couple months. Back to Spicer.
Well dang. Thanks man. I gots some noises up front that sound axle U jointy but I put Moog 371s in them the end of summer

Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
I'm looking at this:
2x Spicer 1658502 U-joints ($40)
2x Timken 513084 hubs ($133)
2x Spicer 1803603 Upper & Lower ball joint ($127)
Total: $300+shipping
Does your model year have to worry about cast vs composite rotor thickness? May wish to double check that the studs are the right length.

Also your "Spicer" part numbers are for Omix-Ada parts. Spicer U joints are 5-260X for the U joints and 706944X for the ball joints
Old Apr 11, 2014 | 07:26 PM
  #41788  
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From: Glendale,Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
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Question for a friend:

1990 4dr XJ 4x4 Aw4

Vehicle randomly down shift while driving at steady speeds. It will drop to 1st while cruising 30-45mph and the rpms will scream. After it drops like that it won't shift out of first. Won't exceed 15-20mph after a situation like described.

He has:
Replaced tps, IAC
Drain and fill tranny with fresh fluids
Upgraded grounds
Adjusted slack in trans kickdown cable

Cried for hours since his baby doesn't run fine.

Where can we look or test to figure out his issues.

The jeep does not drove due to these issues, its not a intermittent thing its every short trip anywhere in the jeep.
Old Apr 11, 2014 | 07:33 PM
  #41789  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206
Question for a friend:

1990 4dr XJ 4x4 Aw4

Vehicle randomly down shift while driving at steady speeds. It will drop to 1st while cruising 30-45mph and the rpms will scream. After it drops like that it won't shift out of first. Won't exceed 15-20mph after a situation like described.

He has:
Replaced tps, IAC
Drain and fill tranny with fresh fluids
Upgraded grounds
Adjusted slack in trans kickdown cable

Cried for hours since his baby doesn't run fine.

Where can we look or test to figure out his issues.

The jeep does not drove due to these issues, its not a intermittent thing its every short trip anywhere in the jeep.
TCU connector?
Brake pedal switch?
Does the TPS actually test good?
Old Apr 11, 2014 | 07:37 PM
  #41790  
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From: Glendale,Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
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Originally Posted by salad

TCU connector?
Brake pedal switch?
Does the TPS actually test good?
We verified voltage and adjusted tps accordingly to cruisers write up regarding automatic transmission adjusting.

As for the tcu and brake pedal switch what am I doing with them? Testing? Cleaning? Replacing?

Please explain a little bit more in depth on those two



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