I think cruiser has a writeup on cleaning the TCU connector or at least some mention of it. Much like the C101 maintenance I'd suspect something like that. Seems most problems on a Renix are wiring related so chase that.

When the brake pedal is pressed, a plunger works three circuits. One for the brake lights, one to cancel cruise, and one tells the TCU to unlock the torque converter. If you have a test light or something I'd wiggle the brake pedal and check to see if the light blinks randomly on any position.

Also, the TCU fuse is good, right?

Not sure if this is possible, but maybe try unplugging the TCU completely and going for a drive.

 

Found where i believe my gas tank is leaking from. It is a vent o ring/ vent fitting on the top passenger side of the tank. Anyone have a part number or info on these?

Edit: I found them, just doubt anywhere local has them other than the dealer.

 

I got the XJ from my son, and he wanted the radio as part of the deal. I finally got around to getting a new radio. Wired everything up, and both fronts not working. Back work fine. Where do I need to start testing? Oh, yes I have checked the wires from the radio to factory plugs in the dash, but not further. Son said they were working before the engine started knocking, and his radio removed. Thanks.....RR

 

We verified voltage and adjusted tps accordingly to cruisers write up regarding automatic transmission adjusting.

As for the tcu and brake pedal switch what am I doing with them? Testing? Cleaning? Replacing?

Please explain a little bit more in depth on those two

 

Rockauto had them listed as Omix-Ada but called them Spicer in the description. I'll look a little deeper.

 

Put in the new, correct one today. No pressure showing on new gauge at all! Wire is good - was almost broken off at the end connector so i spliced in a new one (heat shrink, done right). Still no pressure showing.
Grounded the wire to the neg cable, and it "pegged out" like the old one.
Turned vehicle off, restarted - its alive! Steady 53ish at idle.

Incidentally, when shutting off the vehicle, the oil pressure continues to show the last reading. It only drops back to zero when you first turn the key on. Is that normal on the XJ?

 

I'm thinking you're probably good. I'll look at my gauges tomorrow when I'm tooling around.

 

Napa should have them.

 

Part number didn't work on their site. I'll call the dealer when they open to see how much they are.

 

Ok so i've looked in my Chilton manual and all over the engine bay but I cant figure out where a few of the connectors go. 3 of them come out of the main harness on the passenger side. And then theirs one right beside the airbox. Anyone have any Idea?

 

I've got a 2000 Cherokee sport that's having some issues with a rising needle for the engine temperature and falling. My Cherokee used to remain at 195 degrees but I've noticed in the last week that it will go up to 210 and fall back down all day. When its in idle going down a dirt road it will push a little above 210 then when hitting the gas it will go back down below 210 and remain at about 200 then down to 195 and back up again. This is goes on all day. I've already experienced the 'cracked head' issue and had to pull it replace it not too long ago, damn near everything has almost been replaced during that process, heres the list.


head cylinder/gaskets
thermostat
coolant temperature sensor
radiator/hoses/cap
spark plugs
oil pump
oil pressure sensor


I just replaced the coolant temperature sensor today thinking it was going bad to see if it would make a difference and it didn't, still going from 195 to 210 and back down. The only thing I haven't replaced is the water pump. could this be my mysterious problem? and suggestions would be helpful

 

If I'm correct that's just the way Cherokees run. Mine fluctuates like that all the time never goes above 210 and never under 190 when at operating temp. I'm sure someone else has an answer but mine has been running like that for as long as I can remember.

 

Okay guys quick question. Im in the middle of swapping out my traction bar and one of the links is seized in the pitman arm. I've done everything I can think of after I got the nut off, including hitting it with my hammer (which I snapped in doing so), trying to get an angle on it with a crowbar only other option I can think of is removing the pitman arm so I can get it out way easier or using a torch...
Some ideas would be great. Thanks.

 

By Link you mean tie rod end?

 

Would I have to strengthen the unibody at all to be safe with a 350hp supercharged 4.6L?