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Old Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
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Old Aug 25, 2016 | 04:41 PM
  #55801  
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From: Laurium, MI
Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by DirtyKurty
I have a clunk when I put my jeep into drive and reverse, when I let off the gas or give it gas when cruising down the road there is clunking... Would this be my transfer case? I am thinking about rebuilding it next summer when I do my sye... Are they hard to rebuild... About how much for parts
Should be rebuild videos on youtube with master rebuilt part numbers.

Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Likely it's driveshaft u-joints
^but this
Old Aug 25, 2016 | 05:54 PM
  #55802  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Likely it's driveshaft u-joints
so there are only two u joints in the rear... I replaced the one on the axle side.... When I had the driveshaft off I noticed the shaft on the t case was wiggly
Old Aug 25, 2016 | 06:09 PM
  #55803  
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From: Laurium, MI
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Originally Posted by DirtyKurty
so there are only two u joints in the rear... I replaced the one on the axle side.... When I had the driveshaft off I noticed the shaft on the t case was wiggly
What about the front? Even without 4wd engaged they're spinning(unless you have CAD...).
Old Aug 25, 2016 | 06:51 PM
  #55804  
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
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Originally Posted by rcguymike
What about the front? Even without 4wd engaged they're spinning(unless you have CAD...).
No CAD after '91
Old Aug 25, 2016 | 07:44 PM
  #55805  
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Year: 1992
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Originally Posted by uptownbill
I've been searching for this for a while, but can't find clean info...

I've got a 98 Cherokee SE, want to make sure I'm gettin' the right stuff to do the V8 ZJ tie rod upgrade.

These 3 are in my cart on Amazon:



other questions...
- I'm finding conflicting information and some people seem to have bought DS1238 https://www.amazon.com/Moog-DS1238-T.../dp/B000C5402M . Is this what I should be getting instead. Again I'm after the beefier ZJ version.

- do I need to get some grease and grease up the inside of the sleeves?

thank you in advance
Isn't there one more tie rod end needed for this swap?
Old Aug 25, 2016 | 08:23 PM
  #55806  
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Originally Posted by Hommersimpson
Isn't there one more tie rod end needed for this swap?
Nope, the ZJ tie rod has one built into it.
Old Aug 25, 2016 | 08:37 PM
  #55807  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Nope, the ZJ tie rod has one built into it.
so you reuse the tie rod on pitman arm from xj ? the ZJ conversion is just from wheel to wheel.. not the whole tie rod assembly up to the pitman arm ?
Old Aug 25, 2016 | 08:42 PM
  #55808  
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Originally Posted by Hommersimpson
so you reuse the tie rod on pitman arm from xj ? the ZJ conversion is just from wheel to wheel.. not the whole tie rod assembly up to the pitman arm ?
Old Aug 25, 2016 | 08:49 PM
  #55809  
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Originally Posted by Turbo X_J
got it... thanks..
Old Aug 25, 2016 | 09:07 PM
  #55810  
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From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by salad
Door configuration and transfer case don't matter to the driveshafts in the XJ, transmission does. Are they the same engine and transmission?
Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
And axle?
Boo on both of ya. The "title" of his question says "front driveshaft question"

Nominated.

Originally Posted by rcguymike
abs means D35 rear. No abs means it was deleted or 8.25.
No abs could mean either, actually. The only "definite" in that equation is that if yours came from the factory WITH ABS, it also came WITH a D35. All bets are off if it didn't.
Old Aug 25, 2016 | 09:18 PM
  #55811  
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Originally Posted by Basslicks
Boo on both of ya. The "title" of his question says "front driveshaft question"

Nominated.
No titles on the app. IB is nominated for replacing one ****ed up app with another and not fixing any of the issues after Beta
Old Aug 25, 2016 | 09:22 PM
  #55812  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
No titles on the app. IB is nominated for replacing one ****ed up app with another and not fixing any of the issues after Beta
Agreed.
Old Aug 25, 2016 | 09:30 PM
  #55813  
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Year: 1993
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So got some serious death wobble lately, and both my wheel hubs are a bit rough sounding and have some pretty good play. Doing some research it seems the the Goto brand is Timkin because it is good quality yet cheap, other than that Moog is better but pricy. When I check autozone, the timkens are $100 each! Yet, timkens on rock auto are $70, the moogs are $80. I'm guessing prices on timkens went up? Should I just throw down the extra $20 and get two moogs instead?
Old Aug 25, 2016 | 09:40 PM
  #55814  
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Originally Posted by 93XJeeper
So got some serious death wobble lately, and both my wheel hubs are a bit rough sounding and have some pretty good play. Doing some research it seems the the Goto brand is Timkin because it is good quality yet cheap, other than that Moog is better but pricy. When I check autozone, the timkens are $100 each! Yet, timkens on rock auto are $70, the moogs are $80. I'm guessing prices on timkens went up? Should I just throw down the extra $20 and get two moogs instead?
Don't get me wrong, I like Moog steering parts, but I've heard the Timkens are the superior brand as far as bearings go.
Old Aug 25, 2016 | 10:06 PM
  #55815  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
No titles on the app. IB is nominated for replacing one ****ed up app with another and not fixing any of the issues after Beta
I usually force desktop on my mobile phone in chrome...seems to have full functionality and no downsides. Way faster too.

Originally Posted by 93XJeeper
So got some serious death wobble lately, and both my wheel hubs are a bit rough sounding and have some pretty good play. Doing some research it seems the the Goto brand is Timkin because it is good quality yet cheap, other than that Moog is better but pricy. When I check autozone, the timkens are $100 each! Yet, timkens on rock auto are $70, the moogs are $80. I'm guessing prices on timkens went up? Should I just throw down the extra $20 and get two moogs instead?
They're less than $80 free 2 day prime shipping on Amazon...



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