thanks guys that's what i figured but when i tried with vice grips i thought i was gonna break the thing. i'll go back with some pb blaster see if it changes anything.

 

Long story short.
98 Cherokee.
4.0

Have read some new heads are made better then others.
Nickle content or thickness.

Looking to purchase new head.

Where to buy from.
Thank you!

 

Got an entirely replaced cooling system on my 99. Just did the fan clutch yesterday. It is still getting hot in traffic sometimes, and on extended climbs. What gives? Could the waterpump be going out again? I have a 13kbtu cooler for my trans as well, so maybe that is just dumping too much heat into the rad? It's been 90 and above every day for a month so everything is very warm. I used to have no problem sitting at 195F all the time.

 

1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport XJ 257kmi.

This sound was happening around 5mph-20mph accel. or decel. not in idle. So I jacked up my passenger side front tire to give it a spit to rotate the driveshaft and see where this noise was coming from and found it was the t-case U joints seem okay. I checked the fluid it was basically dry so I filled it up and the sound is almost gone accept it starts around 15mph and is a bit quieter.

I have 2 bigger sized tires on the back since I was low on money and got whatever used tires I could get ahold of so I havent used 4WD in awhile. I posted this question in the wrong place before but the response I got was that it sounds like my 4WD is partially engaged since my tcase shouldnt be making any sound in 2WD. Im going to wait and get matching sized tires all around before I try to put it in 4WD but Im curious and ignant could it be the size difference in tires causing this prob.? Could I mess around with the shift kever underneath to be sure its disengaged Im fairly new to all this...

 

If youre trying to get the motor out which is attached to what Im seeing pictured you have to open up the back hatch take the nubs out of the handle look in and there are torx or star bit screws you need to take outrto remove the handle. The rest of the screws are phillips head unscrew them all including the ones staring at you. Gently pry back the panel you'll hear it pop out in diff. sections all around until its completely loose. Look up youll see two bolts and a relay valeo made in france sticker etc thats the assembly un bolt those unplug the relay there is a few more bolts in there but youll probably want to undo the nut youve encircled in red so the motor isnt dangling if you save it for last then go back to unbolting and unplugging anything else you see attached and pull it out from the inside. You'll be reaching and looking straight up for must of the work with the hatch open.

 

[QUOTE=JasmineWolf;3407778]If youre trying to get the motor out which is attached to what Im seeing pictured you have to open up the back hatch take the nubs out of the handle look in and there are torx or star bit screws you need to take outrto remove the handle. The rest of the screws are phillips head unscrew them all including the ones staring at you. Gently pry back the panel you'll hear it pop out in diff. sections all around until its completely loose. Look up youll see two bolts and a relay valeo made in france sticker etc thats the assembly un bolt those unplug the relay there is a few more bolts in there but youll probably want to undo the nut youve encircled in red so the motor isnt dangling if you save it for last then go back to unbolting and unplugging anything else you see attached and pull it out from the inside. You'll be reaching and looking straight up for must of the work with the hatch open. Mine just had a nut instead of what you have in green the larger should unscrew and slide over it to remove the entire assembly maybe try tugging it or unscrewing it with a pair of vice grips

 

If/when you break it, advance/carquest should have a, believe it or not, axle nut that fits well. It's a really wonky metric size not many people carry anymore(22mm(<-I think)x1.5).

 

So anyone have any tips/ideas on how to make the connection from the wiring harness to the master switch better? I tried bending the female pins a bit to git a tighter grip but it stops working after a couple days. Now I have to press really hard on the face plate to get doors to unlock and/or windows to go up and down.

Here's me futzing with the connector and giving up.

 

So new guy here, new to forum and jeeps...anyways my trans doesn't seem to shift correctly.(not sure if its 4th or lockout that its not shifting into). but i used to get around 1500 rpm at 60-65 mph...now its sitting around 2k...i think its getting into 4th but im not sure if lockout is technically "5th". if it is then its not going into lockout..if not then its not going into 4th...either way its not all the time..also sometimes when driving on the highway it hesitated and went back into the highest gear. but today it hasn't shifted at all. the fluid and filter have been changed within the last month. any advice is appreciated and I will work to figure this out more on my own as well...i have heard about checking the TPS and cables. also when you shift from drive to 3rd it downshifts so thats what makes me think its getting 4th and not lockout hopefully I can get it fixed under warrenty but i prefer to know what the problem is first.

edit: sometimes the problem is fixed when shifting into neutral when in 4th or when sitting at a light putting it in park and manually going 1-2, 3, drive when it turns green. Note this does not always work and is somewhat hard to replicate

 

If you can find a wiring diagram/walk-through you could try ohming out the TCC(Torque Converter clutch) lockup solenoid. Might be a fuse too?

 

maybe check your brake light switch too. when the brake pedal is pressed, it unlocks the torque converter which will do something like your describe. i think it's the easiest thing to verify first. i had issues with my cruise control (which uses the brake light switch to turn it off) and it would quit when going over bumps. adjusted the switch and it solved my issue.

 

ill try that..i dont think it will do anything because the trouble is getting it to lock in the first place

 

but if it was a fuse would it not lock at all? ill see what I can find about the solenoid and see if its working correctly

 

If the switch is not adjusted properly, the torque converter won't lock.

 

looking for 99 xj stereo wiring diagram for the back of the receiver.

googles spitting up grand cherokee jargin!!!