Ralph77

I came across this awhile back and saved it. Is this what you are looking for?


1997-01 Jeep Cherokee Stereo Information
Constant (memory) 12V+ Pink/Yellow
Switched (main power) 12V+ Red/White
Ground Black
Illumination Orange/Brown
Dimmer Black/Light Blue
Front Speakers
Left Front (+) Dark Green
Left Front (-) Brown/Red
Right Front (+) Purple
Right Front (-) Dark Blue/Red
Rear Speakers
Left Rear (+) Brown/Yellow
Left Rear (-) Brown/Light Blue
Right Rear (+) Dark Blue/White
Right Rear (-) Dark Blue/Orange

4x4jeepmanthing

Yes that's perfect. I need to tie in my arb switches to a 15 amp circuit with illumination and the stereo is about my only choice for 15A

Ralph77

Glad to have helped.

greynolds17

ohh gotcha not sure how that would effect it since its still locking sometimes....could be stuck tho

TwistedWrench

I had the same issue ages ago. It would sometimes work, sometimes not. Other times while driving it would slip in and out of "lockup".

The switch has a plunger that contacts the pedal, like a doorjamb switch. Wedge yourself under the dash, lol. Push the brake pedal down with your hand, and pull the plunger toward the front of the jeep till it pops forward. This will take a bit of effort.

Release the pedal, you'll hear the switch click as it self-adjusts to the pedal.

greynolds17

thats what im thinking is the issue...i hope because i dont have much money to fix it and my warranty wont cover it

greynolds17

ok so the switch looks to be working...the cruise control works so if its attached to that switch then the switch is definitely fine. not sure how much its supposed to stick out from the housing but its about 1/2" out and does move with the pedal if you need a pic I can send one...is there a way to test the solenoid without removing the tranny pan tho? i heard some models had a pin on the case to test resistance on. not sure where that is however

Joecam18

Dont know where to go from here. Was removing my rear leafs, got the rear bolts out and the passenger front bolt, but the driver front bolt seems like its spinning now and wont come out anymore. I think the weld nut broke lose or something. Got it about a half inch to an inch out before this happened. Not sure what im gonna do now except open the unibody up to get to the nut

NewKindOfClown

You got it

Joecam18

Yup. After doing some research i see that instead of opening from the opposite side of the frame rail, to open from underneath the shackle to slide a crescent wrench up in there

TrailerTrash

Got a pic of this? im a bit confused and trying to learn every little tip and trick I can before swapping leafs in the spring

Joecam18

greynolds17

fiddled with the switch and it worked after that...i don't recall it ever extending all the way but i'm also not sure what "all the way" is..and it didn't make a definitive click when i released the pedal...when the pedal is released the plunger is flush with the housing and when pressed it only comes out about a 1/4". I couldnt get a good grip on it so if it does come out farther it must be difficult to get...also ill try and see if i can replicate that to find out if the switch is the problem...also while i was driving it did unlock and lock once but that was at about 50ish.


this is the pedal pressed



released

Basslicks

Ugh.... fixed.

I forgot that I used photobucket for some of my pics until I found a new host.

Didn't realize my account was even big enough for them to pull that **** with me. They're so friggin' stupid.

rcguymike

Sorry, want to bump this once more...Stupid windows stopped working at all on my way to work this morning until I took apart the door, and wiggled the connector to get the last one to roll back up. It's about to thunderstorm so windows are staying up for today at least. This might force me to go fix my A/C...lol