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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
how do i remove the rear wiper assembly? on the earlier models if that changes anything.
right now i'm trying to get the rear assembly from a xj at the junkyard, but when i try to unscrew the large nut on the outside, it doesn't loosen it but rather turn the splines with it. here, i tried to illustrate. i unbolted it from the inside but it doesn't want to budge... any ideas?
(red part rotates forever, green part doesn't move)
Red nut comes off, if you're saying the splines spin hold it with a pair of vise grips, then spin the red nut off then it should come out if it's already detached from behind.
Thanks for your help on the fluid situation feel more relieved now as I only just got the Jeep but bit unsure if I can tow in two wheel drive or have to be in for advice which would you feel would be the best to stay in for a drive whilst towing unfortunately Jeep Cherokee is new to me has my Land Rover recently got to old and decided to buy a jeep instead
2WD is fine, the axle is fairly stout.
Unfortunately Chrysler didn't call the KJ a "Cherokee" in North America, most people on this site have no idea what you're talking about. They were branded "Liberty" here, and have little in common with our old XJ Cherokees.
Here are a few sites that will be MUCH more suited to answer your questions!
x2 on that... never know the last time that diff fluid was changed. May as well fill it with fresh oil.
I'll check for the tag on the front. And in mine actually I had ALL the fluids changed about 2 months ago, which would raise the question of how often should I change it? Every time I change the oil or is that too much? and thanks for the tip/advise, thanks cruiser
I have been trying to clean the head lights on my 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I try every thing on youtube. But, nothing will clear the up.
Is the oxidation of the inside of the head light and if so, is it possible to clean them. Or, necessary to buy new lights.
Thanks,
Mike
whitening toothpaste has to have grit and elbow grease, rubbing compound, baking soda and vinegar (worked decent on my girlfriend's car). I tried some autobody sand paper only made them worse it got the oxidation off but smeared it in all the pours effectively making it worse that it was, suppose I could've tried sanding it down further though. Buy a kit from a store or replace them is all I can think of or have tried. Oh and never tried but supposedly wd40 works
I'll check for the tag on the front. And in mine actually I had ALL the fluids changed about 2 months ago, which would raise the question of how often should I change it? Every time I change the oil or is that too much? and thanks for the tip/advise, thanks cruiser
No way... way too soon lol....
Here ya go...
Originally Posted by tdicola on that EnAyeExJay site
I took a look at the maintenance schedule in the service manual for my 99 XJ and it seems a little light. Here's a summary of group B maintenance (off-road & heavier driving):
Every 3000 miles
- Change oil
- Change oil filter
- Lubricate steering linkage
Every 6000 miles
- Lubricate steering and suspension ball joints
- Rotate tires
- Check coolant level, hoses, and clamps
Every 12000 miles
- Change transmission fluid
- Change diff fluid
- Inspect brake linings
Every 15000 miles
- Check and replace air cleaner
Every 30000 miles
- Change spark plugs & ignition cables
- Inspect drive belt and adjust tension
- Change transfer case fluid
- Flush and replace coolant
This seems to cover the basics but feels like it's missing a lot of important stuff. For example water pump, thermostat, distributor rotor, hydraulic fluid replacement (brake, steering), etc. aren't mentioned. Are there any good suggestions to fill in the gaps with this maintenance schedule? My Jeep is at 150k miles so I want to start taking care of stuff that might break and leave me stranded.
I have been trying to clean the head lights on my 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I try every thing on youtube. But, nothing will clear the up.
Is the oxidation of the inside of the head light and if so, is it possible to clean them. Or, necessary to buy new lights.
Thanks,
Mike
It's unlikely that the oxidation is on the inside, but not impossible. I had a buick that did that and ended up having to get new headlights. Going through the trouble of breaking the seals around the lights, sanding, buffing, and polishing the lenses, and resealing the lights wasn't worth it to me.
Before you try going through all that though, get the 3m headlight restoration kit. Works amazing. They make 2 kits, one for your cordless drill, one for use without. I spent the extra coin for the cordless drill kit - worth every penny....
If it doesn't work and it does happen to be on the inside, this kit will have enough left in it to clean the inside of the lenses and then some, if you decide it's worth it to try.
It's unlikely that the oxidation is on the inside, but not impossible. I had a buick that did that and ended up having to get new headlights. Going through the trouble of breaking the seals around the lights, sanding, buffing, and polishing the lenses, and resealing the lights wasn't worth it to me.
Before you try going through all that though, get the 3m headlight restoration kit. Works amazing. They make 2 kits, one for your cordless drill, one for use without. I spent the extra coin for the cordless drill kit - worth every penny....
Before:
During:
After:
If it doesn't work and it does happen to be on the inside, this kit will have enough left in it to clean the inside of the lenses and then some, if you decide it's worth it to try.
My clutch failed on that old '90 2.1td manual.
It always had to be pressed close to the floor to disengage, but suddenly it felt like it needed that extra inch which was not available.
Managed to get out of the bushes and limp 250kms home.
So:
Gearbox changes fine when engine does not run
clutch does disengage a little, when i press the pedal to the metal
i can start the engine in first gear and it will try to crawl but able to maintain idle. This is how I managed the few red lights on the way home...
My question is:
in your opinion is that clutch mechanism or hidraulics related?
I have external slave cyl, so hidraulics would save me a gearbox removal.
the local jeep mechanic is on it, i'm just curios if this happened to you. Read a lot of possible causes online but noting conclusive.
Most likely hydraulic related, especially if the fluid in the clutch master ever got low, will need bleeding.
But one time when I did engine swap, I found one ear of the throwout bearing had broken off. That explained the grinding noise whenever I pushed the clutch pedal all the way to the floor (lever actually came into contact with rotating pressure plate, because broken-off ear on throwout allowed lever to get too close).
IIRC, the clutch system is a nuisance to bleed, I think some came "factory prefilled", with no bleed fittings
May be able to manage it anyways, by unbolting the slave, hold it hose-up, push the piston in (to force any air all the way back to the master), then get somebody to pump the pedal as you ease the piston back out.
....the grinding noise whenever I pushed the clutch pedal all the way to the floor (lever actually came into contact with rotating pressure plate, because broken-off ear on throwout allowed lever to get too close).
Actually I did have a metallick noise whenever had the clutch released. When pushed in, the noise goes away, but release it, and it's there. Some turning metal touching something else... kinda noise.
Also from time to time (interestingly i was not able to figure out any pattern... not the heat, not the gear, not the speed, not the torque, not the oil (changed)...) there was quite a loud noise from gearbox/clutch. Audible mostly when travelling in 4th or 5th (when the engine's racket allows you to hear it, hahaha! ... but then again. Sometimes it just went away... then returned a few days later when driving to work. On the way home quiet. Driving to the mountains, I heard it for some time... then realised it was quiet. One of those noises of a 20something years old tractror, hahaha. Sorry, my Jeep is not the fanciest in town.
Just joined this form wonder if anybody can help me I have accidently put transmission fluid into the power steering reservoir on my Jeep Cherokee 2.8 CRD automatic 2007 can anyone give me any advice only put a little bit in it just to top it up
Drain the power steering fluid from the oil reservoir by disconnecting the pump suction hose. This should remove the transmission oil before it makes it way to the seals. Hopefully.
The Transmission fluid "may" damage the seals if it makes it way to them. So, drain and keep your finger crossed.
But, I am not really sure if the transmission fluid will destroy the seals. But, draining will be a good start.
I am a beat up old "shade Tree" mechanic and don't like to put cars in the shop for any reason. I know the information is out there. One just has to ask. Like on this great site and considerate folks like yourself.
It's unlikely that the oxidation is on the inside, but not impossible. I had a buick that did that and ended up having to get new headlights. Going through the trouble of breaking the seals around the lights, sanding, buffing, and polishing the lenses, and resealing the lights wasn't worth it to me.
Before you try going through all that though, get the 3m headlight restoration kit. Works amazing. They make 2 kits, one for your cordless drill, one for use without. I spent the extra coin for the cordless drill kit - worth every penny....
Before:
During:
After:
If it doesn't work and it does happen to be on the inside, this kit will have enough left in it to clean the inside of the lenses and then some, if you decide it's worth it to try.
Love the Jeep. That is one way to get under it for repairs.lol
09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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