It did it with all steering connected, this was first time I noticed it, but I had just connected everything and didn't align it because I drove it across the street to get gas and back. Then it did same thing with nothing connected to pitman arm. Now it still does it with nothing connected and a different steering box.

I think you're right it has to be the joints in the shaft or something involving the shaft.

 

I think the steering box stops the steering wheel if the steering stops on the axle don't...
If you pull your drag link off you can turn your pitman arm by hand then something abruptly stops the pitman arm.
I assume the steering box stops it and not something in the column or shaft

 

Check to see if nothing get in the way of the steering shaft joints when u turn it.

When I bought my jeep from a junkyard, it was in a collision and the front end was smashed in. The power steering hoses (metal parts) was bent far enough that it interfered with the rotational movement of the steering shaft.

 

my cherokee will start and run fine till it gets up to operating temperature then it doesn't want to idle if will putter below 500 then die out, there is also a little surging in the low rpm range up till about 1200. i have replaced the iac, tps, fuel injectors, battery, plug wires and distributor cap and button, fuel filter, any ideas what could be causing my problem?
ive also tried cleaning out the throttle body

 

Replaced all those parts....But have you done a good tune-up with plugs, ? Done Tips 1,3,4, and 5 in my link below?

 

Anyone know of a good gutter mount system to mount this Yakima roof rack using gutter mounts instead of the flimsy oem crossbars?

 

These guys might be able to guide you.

http://www.yakima.com/fit/Information

 

Another option is to add more crossbars.

 

I saw an early 90s XJ today with a 2.5L and OEM tow hitch. Was that even an option from the factory?

 

It's all in the gear ratio!!! Once knew a guy that used a HUDSON FOR HIS TOW VEHICLE. Don't know what kind of rear it had, but it got the job done!!

 

I don't think many hitches were "factory", per se, but you could get whatever you wanted as a dealer-installed option.

 

They had factory hitches back then.

With a 4 cylinder? Maybe not.

 

Looking at replacing all my cooling system before it fails on me in the mountains randomly.

Gates is pretty solid for waterpumps? I know they make good belts, typically. Also just looking for an OEM 2 row rad, I see them for ~$80 on rockauto. What else should I replace, the upper & lower hose, new coolant, new t-stat (motorad, correct?) Anything else? Then just fill er up with distilled water and the green goodness?

I am going to probably drain it and try to spray out the heater core. When I first got it, a garage told me my rad was starting to seep so I figure its not worth doing a drain on the coolant without replacing it.

 

'Water pump inlet tube' will likely need to be replaced also.

 

anyone know the measurements for the stock bump stops? i need how far the end of the bumpstop, is from the bottom part of the mount(for said bumpstop) for the front.
and the distance from the bottom of the "Frame" to the bottom of the bump stop in the rear...

measuring for bump stops without any bump stops...